MY1PATH

Simply put, the location of the weight in an aftermarket flyweel is just not there. It is not thicker in any other place but it has a HUGE dish out of the back side... You have roughly 1/2" of materiall inside the ring gear and then a square edge where it drops into the dish and the dish runs all the way to the center where it meets the bolt pattern at a slight taper. The Heavier OEM's have about 2.5-3" of material iside the ring gear and then they taper in and back out to the bolt pattern in the center. So pretty much all the added weight the OEM's have is located outward because the outside of the dish is smaller. I will find you pictures to illistrate this (eventually) You won't need cad, the difference is very visible. BUT I did find part numbers... and list price from dealer (PM your NPORA parts guy for better quote) 12310-0W001 25LBS $468 Xterra and Frontier VG33E 12310-02P24 24LBS $375 Pahfinder VG30I 12310-02P19 22LBS Pathfinder and Pickup VG30E, superceedes 12310-02P24 (if ask a dealer for 12310-02P24 they will likely give you this) 12310-5S700 12LBS VG33ER, Must have been aluminum. I'm sure its Great for full race motor or a dessert runner but otherwise YUCK lol and VQ flywheels are nearly 40 lbs becacuse they are so wimply down low. My wife didn't notice a difference either. Maybe I have a flywheel/spider sense lol.

I've seen thorley long and short tubes, I've seen pace setters and I've seen Mr510's headers (very nice) and none of them required any frame modification.

Here's a better shot of the gauge Correct, the pathy already has a cold air intake, it pulls from the fender and the stock filter box with a K&N filter flows up to 454 CFM and this is more than any NA VG3x variaton could ever need. http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/33-2031-2.pdf (found one in the JY the other day for $2 retail is $60) Stock vg33 should only need about 312 CFM At 6000 RPM and 390 if it went to 7500 RPM A vg34 @ 7500 RPM would only need about 425 CFM http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator3.php

I'm looking at a frontier one right now. It has "JAPAN OWO" stamped on it just like my 3.3 and 3.3 heads. The dish on the back side is allot smaller than the Rock Auto Flywheel sitting on my table. I wrote the seller to weigh it for me.

well Zoom is not 23, I had summit racing weigh it for me. They saved me allot of trouble. Looks like ALL aftermarket flywheels are around 20 lbs.

You may not have to do any trimming from the pillar pod because the wires will come from behind the panel instead of between the panel and the dash.

Ran out of time to edit; AFTER a good run I found it idles just normal at 21 hg vacuum and shows about 0.75 hg when running WOT @ redline(all stock). This is good, this means the Intake setup is Ideal for the engine. 0-1 is what you want. I think for NA 1 is best because any reversions inside the intake when a valve closes are canceled out by the slightest amount of vacuum. More than 1 hg indicates that there is a flow restriction and that the engine would use more air if it was available. I imagine the 3.3 will pull 1.5-2 hg which is acceptable to me as its not a race motor, just a family car.

Soon I will be installing a 3.3 in the wife's truck. Using a vacuum gauge will help me monitor its performance and economy. It won't do much better on gas if we just wind up driving it faster lol. SO this will be for before and after monitoring. This one is called a fuel-saver because you can use it to curb your driving habits using color coded zones; the harder you step on the gas the less vacuum you have. The colors read as follows: POWER (0-6) POOR (6-12) BEST ECONOMY (12-21) DECELERATION (21-30) This auto-meter gauge came with its own bezel and I decided I wanted it on the ledge near the A pillar, I pushed it down with some foam double back tape and looked at how I want to run the wires and Hose... I wanted to run it down between the dash panel and the pillar panel but the dash panel has a lip that gets overlapped by the pillar panel. So shaved the lip off and cleaned up the same area on the pillar panel. Now it was time to get everything routed... I pulled the cluster and Using a bent hangar I pulled the hose and wires from the corner down to the cluster area. ---The Vacuum hose I continued behind the dash and fed it down next to the speedo cable, then I fed it through the firewall grommet that is also used for the alarm speaker and the fog lights. From there it follows the fog light harness until it meets a Tee at the FPR vacuum hose. ---The lights I routed down to the cluster harness and spliced with the light for the Clock; this makes the gauge light up during the day to combat the glare (being right next to the window) and switch to a dim-able circuit when you turn the rest of the lights on. then I put everything back and here's the finished product.

Look at the picture,Its called a fuel-saver because you can use it to curb your driving habits using color coded zones; the harder you step on the gas the less vacuum you have. So if you drive around keeping the needle in the green you will your driving habits will use less gas then if you drive around in the red. The colors read as follows: POWER (0-6) POOR (6-12) BEST ECONOMY (12-21) DECELERATION (21-30) There's articles online that go much more in depth about these gauges and the other indications they can give as far as tuning and engine health. My purpose is a means of comparing performance and economy when I do her 3.3 swap soon.

I don't remember the factory spec but if you go 0.039" you will be fine.

"why are you going so slow up this hill?" "Because the clutch slips if I give it more gas" "Oh? I've just been stepping on it and it makes it a little faster..." "do the RPMs go through the roof?" "I think so...." Still wondering?

It does not have to be "fancy" or "special" or "expensive" LSD oil but it does need to say LSD somewhere on the bottle. Since they sold you short I'd just put LSD additive in there, it sticks to the plates and keeps them from chattering when the LSD slips (cornering the tighter the turn the more it slips).

problem with that, is any used flywheel is likely to need resurfacing which means taking off weight. now if I find the rare 28 pounder, then I could resurface it and still be have plenty of weight.

I installed a vacuum gauge today (no fancy pillars here) and had to take this guy off to route the hose. I noticed my stock one also has a slight gap in the same place. But only 1/8 at the widest spot.

$225 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-NISSAN-King-Cab-Terrano-1986-to-1992-LHD-european-headlamps-headlights-/400194581120?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2d74b280

Installed a fuel saver vacuum gauge in the T93

Front lockers work better on winter roads if you have manual hubs and leave one unlocked. Essentially, 3 wheel drive. Then your not battling the under-steer associated with both wheels trying to move the same speed when cornering on ice.

I used an Eco-watt bulb because my unfinished 12v conversion still doesn't put out enough power yet. It lights up the road pretty good, I can only imagine it would be awesome if get a normal bulb or even a 65w/85 in there...

IN the past RA has always been good to me, very supportive in customer issues and always makes things right... So Let's hope they are not starting a new trend! Recently I resurfaced a flywheel for my wife's clutch job. It went from 23 lbs to 21 lbs.(yeah I know, it was bad, took off .070") Right away I could feel the difference in hilly traffic, it did not take off as easy and I had to rev-slip a little more. Soon I will be doing an engine change and I wanted to replace the flywheel to restore stock inertia and make driving/ towing better. I ordered a SACHS flywheel from RA and it showed up 20 lbs. LIGHTER than my resurfaced wheel! Imagine MFR's are just making one flywheel for all makes with a vg30 when really that weight is best suited for cars. So I emailed rock auto, spent almost as much in shipping as the product is worth; WA to NY. Fair enough(even though it sucks), I should have asked before buying I'll pay return costs... Then bought a Brute Power flywheel from them because customer service told me it was 25 lbs (I was excited, upgrade for towing and clutch life). The Brute Power flywheel showed up and is also 20 lbs. I feel like I have been lied to, they'd better cover shipping this time. I don't have money to ship things back and forth just so I can weigh it. This is the worst service I've ever had from RA. Summit Racing has one that is listed at 23 lbs (RA flywheels don't have weights listed should have gone that route the first time) I emailed them to double check. By the time I get my next flywheel I will have been jumping through hoops for 3 Weeks!

OK, the clerk at ROCK AUTO LIED TO ME. Brute power is 20 lbs just like the sachs! Now I have to the expensive return dance again. they better cover it all this time. I guess I'll try zoom from summit...

yeah, the Cebie for my motorcycle was 80 bucks. It would be about 160 for a pair to go into a pathy.

Nice work, I like those IPF's. Another good oprtion to go with this conversion is Cibie housings. They are really rare these days but can always be found at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html Cibie (pronounced C B A) are E-code lights (european liging standard) and offer a sharper cutoff with more light focused below the cutoff. This makes them superior in foggy weather because no light is cast upward into the fog.

Yeah I like that; gained .5 MPG but it cost more to go the same distance. Wow $#!tty MPG from a newer VQ engine.

Simply put Octane is Resistance to Detonation. Premium does not make more power or burn cleaner its just more resistant to detonation. One characteristic of resisting detonation is that the fuel burns slower. This is not an issue in higer compression engines because the Compression acclerates the flame front. But in engines designed for low octane the fuel does not burn as fast and sometimes you wind up with MORE unburnt fuel. Unburnt fuel (hydrocarbons) means more work for catalytic converters to remove. So really, the service guy is mistaken. Premium tune? Basically if the engine is the same but the Tune is different. (pathfinder vs M30) the octane optimization has been made via changing the timing curve and modifying the fuel maps a based on how much of that specific fuel will or will not burn at a given engine condition.

Well, maybe the bottom half of a boost gauge? Vacuum gauges can be handy at times, and they make a great space filler if you don't know that to put for your #3 gauge. I plan on putting a "fuel saver" vacuum gauge in my wife's truck along with her new vg33+ so she knows how much she's putting her foot into it. (its not more fuel efficient if you drive it faster lol) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2337/overview/