MY1PATH

That was last I checked in WA, I have no Idea what it is here in SoCal. 3 digits? For the huge OEM or for aftermarket? Magnaflow direct fit for the PF come in at around $130-150 all the time on ebay but they have a smaller core section. In my case It was more than 3 HP It was a difference I could feel but then again it was corked lol

So I missed out on a few dollars, Acquiring a test pipe by tomorrow would have cost me more than I could get for the cat (last I priced a PF cat it was $35 in scrap value) A few smacks later and I have a small resonator, instead of a cat I'm surprised B is not yelling at me yet lol

Ok with a title like that I'm sure sombody on here is gonna be mad at me lol but heres all the Catalytic Converter innards in my shop trash... Recently I failed smog and the results point to a bad Cat, This weekend I am going on a road trip and I wanted to get rid of that annoying exhaust ratting on the frame that I have been ignoring since the engine change (engine and exhaust sit a little lower that it did with the 3.0) when I pulled the exhaust out to modify it to fit better I looked into the cat and saw the core turned sideways. Well it failed me smog already so its worthless and this clog will cuase me issues on my road trip (has been causing higher than normal temps already and now I know why) so I did the quick-n-dirty and punched it all out with a prybar so I can make my drive safely. So what caused this you might ask? The root of the cause is that in the ~6 years that I have been running this cat my truck has flooded many times. I had bad luck with failing TBI injectors and then an intermittent short that kept the injectors open longer from time to time... But if the final straw was when I switched to MPFI and my Defective ECU kept the # 1 injector open at all times. (also led to the death of that 3.0) Simply put, Flooding and running really rich is really bad for cats. It eats up the catlyst, and deteriorates the cores untill the break up and or get loose. Then sometimes they block the passage causing exesive heat and back pressure. So If you have flooding, or you have been running rich for a while; INSPECT YOUR CAT.

I have run both the TBI and MPFI PN on each of my trucks. Both fit fine. Me thinks you got a defective part. Find the part on their website, there will be a picture with measurements. Measure and verify.

I hope they did not line bore your block yet. That's a waste of money on these engines. The the main journals on these engines will remain true unless something totally catastrophic happens... Something that probably won't happen on an N/A engine unless you insist on running it until the entire engine is FUBAR.

Little trick I came up with, works best with R50 and WD22 Injectors but can also be used with WD21 and other nissan's if an allen key is tightly fitted into the hole on the side of the injector and then slowly pried against. Experiences may vary in other nissan because cars like the the z32 300zx use thicker o-rings and I'm guessing they will fight you more.

To be more specific, he was with me when I discovered that little bolt hole and his words were something like "huh, I'll have to do it that way next time" I know there was at least one 'next time' since then on a pathfinder but these don't just go into pathfinders and its hard to say how many more he will do and into what vehicles... He will sell his available parts to any paying customer but beyond that, he picks and chooses who he works for and what he does. Just buy his adapter hub and do the swap locally using this thread as a guide.

you should get that fixed... you should get that fixed...

I've been doing that trick for a few months now, Friday it was really hot and that trick wasn't working.

FYI for all those going this route, you do not need to cut and weld the tab on the water pipe, Simply bolt it to the bottom hole on this bracket and everything fits just fine. This is how I did it and this is how Mr510 is now doing his future swaps.

Yes! I have a pretty good idea how it goes but seeing it done once and reading your input will make things smoother. I intend to have 1 key that works in both my Nissan.

CAST? I aways thought it would be a simple enough doubler to make out of plate...

Made more progress on my bomber skid... Boxing the inside edges of the louvers, adding recessed holes etc...

Was this with rear disc? Was the chevy MC for rear disc?

You have to bleed the ABS before you bleed the rear wheels.

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Actually, Now I'm looking at this one http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200007224_200007224 with a duct http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324853_200324853 So I can locate the ventilation to wherever I want in the garage. In theory it would give me an air change every 2 min but I do believe the vent in the garage wall will create some flow restriction so more like 3 min. Hope this was of some help.

Maybe one of these? Not all of them are exactly a mounted fans but much cheaper options none the less... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&ipp=24&Ntt=blower%2Bfan I'm looking to do the same with my garage to cool it and eliminate fumes when I am doing projects... I only have skinny 14" vents in my garage and I am not allowed to modify it so I will likely be putting one of these up to the vent. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200604585_200604585 My work space is 20x20x8 so A 600CFM fan gives me a complete air change every 5.3 min Which is about standard (12 air changes per hour) for automotive and minor fabrication workplaces. Use LxWxH= Area and then Area/Desired Air Change time= to get the CFM you need. For basic ventilation you can go down to about 1/3 of that.

Now I must correct myself because I overlooked a detail that simplifies things; the vg33er alty runs on its own belt in the same position as the 3.0 and the VG33ER water pump and PS pump share a belt. So it REALLY goes like this to swap into a WD21 w/d22 vg33e or vg33er PS pump on 3.3 PS mount bracket, water pump, lower coolant pipe and lower radiator hose. (the water pump is offset different to align the pulley with the PS pump on the 3.3) VG33ER Tensioner pulleys for SC and PS Pump VG30 alty/compressor mounts (unmodified), VG30 AC compressor with VG33er compressor pulley (NA pulley does not have enough ribs) and alternator (pathy quest maxima etc whatever you are running) with the 3.3 ribbed pulley Run stock SC A/C belt and stock water PS belt for the ER. Run whatever length alty belt depending on the size of tensioner bracket you used (to fit whatever atly you have)

Did you try bleeding again? There might still be some air in there.

I think somone on N4W did. Its been a looooong time since I saw that thread tho.

In and out I am a ready welder fan when it comes to getting a High amp welder on a budget. Sure its expensive but find a Plug in Mig that will weld 1/2" plate for less than $1000 Invest in one of these and a pair of deep cycle batteries and you welding becomes portable and flexible. Use with Flux core, gas or Dual Shield (my favorite) Using 3 batteries I was able to to weld on 1" thick Clevis loops and make the opposite side of a 3/8 plate glow after welding a joint together. That's all the penetration you need right there! Now for body work and thin metals; by all means get a little plug in welder that you can dial down easily to not burn holes in things.

I like the Idea of a VH45DE under the hood... there are 350 swaps out there, a few on youtube and a few on other boards. there is also a 4.3 vortec on this board. FYI The 4.3 will run on a nissan ECU you just have to adapt the connectors.

That's come down, when i first looked they were near $600 Each! or $1200 for a pair.

Making it 2wd Sheds about 400 lbs...