MY1PATH

Yes, your right B I think the common phrase cams ground from billet is a layman's term (actually a bastardization as you pointed out) to describe a cam that was ground from an original cam blank (usually a hardened casting) and has no limitations maintaining the original base circle with respect to the desired lift (as long as it fits in the head). Whereas a reground cam often suffers (unless welded and ground) a smaller base circle to proportionally increase the lift and relies on the lifters to make up for the difference. The factory cams, NisMo cams and the JWT cams are ground from original cam blanks.

Hey folks just a heads up, 4x4parts.com sells the euro cams that fit the vg30 and vg33. I was not aware of this until now and the price is pretty good for a set of brand new cams ground from billet. This is a factory nissan part. These are the same cams I am running in my 10:1 vg33+ The ad states 5% increase in power but it is probably more like 10-15% in a 3.3 compared to its baby cams. You also benefit in having a flatter top end of the torque curve. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/euro-cams-p-423.html

I deiced that the extensive trail damage over the years had not smashed my core support enough... So this morning I decided to smash it even more using a jack and a crow bar! Now it sits completely above the frame... All the rust marks are from all chipped paint on the core support and from my temporary skid plate.

One more vote of Dex III

So today I fabricated my final cardboard template for my Bomber Skid to go with my Bomb Proof Crossmember Then put the 1/4" plate steel into production and It will look very much like the cardboard below. Yes, I've been driving around with a cardboard skid plate template bolted to my truck

BTW, MPG has not gone down. Pulling a 2 ton trailer during my move @ ~55 mph I managed 18 mpg on my best tank. Today, I went into down (30 miles each way) and keeping my speed under 70 I managed almost 20 mpg and I had a few hard accelerations and barked the tires a few times while doing so. Most my mixed driving and city driving has been getting me about the same mpg's I figured this much would be the case when I selected the euro cam over some of the more aggressive options.

began designing my HD skid plate... Its gonna be bad@$$... one day...

I think The N62 MAF will lean out AFR and cost you power if you don't 1) calibrate (maf pot if it goes far enough, ecu/nisutne) or 2) compensate (go to larger injectors at the same time) Complete used VG33ER with all accessories $500 Doesn't really count, I'm still using the rest of the engine for another project but I barrowed parts off of it that I got back when I pulled my 3.0 out. Euro cams $200 NEW OLD STOCK VG33 short block still in factory plastic $650 shipped EE Crank pulley adapter $80 Victor gasket kit misc assembly parts ~$500 If you play your cards right ~$1200 for a fresh engine that's 50hp more than stock 3.0 Last I checked a fresh manufactured 3.0 from any vendor is over $2500

if you do drop the tank, i would invest in some tank treatment to pour in there and shake around while its out. Help secure your investment.

Depends on the pathy, I've been into that hatch on about half a dozen PF's and they were all pretty easy to get into and mostly rust free. But that's CA & WA pathy's and WA JY's. Are you seeing the drip there? Becase the most common fuel leak is the sneaky 3" hose that joins the left fule rail to the right fule rail. It sits at the front of the lower intake manifold just behind the coolant neck. Its out of sight unless you know to look for it. The next is the Feed and retun line near the frame rail in the engine bay. For the tank lines, you can reach them to snug the clamps on the pump but probably a PITA to get the ones on the hardlines or replace them w/o just cutting the old ones and dropping the tank.

Good luck, I think JWT S1 and some headers should get you the same numbers but you will not have the same low end unless you raise the compression ratio.

My last plug change was with the engine out. it was easy. The plug change before that the entire intake maniflolds were removed. it was also easy. the next change will likely be when I am test fitting an m62. it will again be easy... Damnit the plugs were easy each time but everything else was pretty extensive lol.

The usa 3.0 cams are still pretty good, wakes the 3.3 up from its tiny stock cams. The JWT will be going into a completely different engine pushing 300hp...

No worries, when you can afford it go back and do it. Alki should be able to get you a good price. I think the next cams I am going to try are the JWT S1.

Q45 pistons are not flat. they have 4 valve reliefs in them from the 4 valve head and they need to be cut for the vg30 valves so in the end they have 6 relifs in them. (did you read mr510's vg34 thread and see the pictures?) Now, the reason the q45 pistons raise the compression ratio is because they are ~1.5 mm larger and the piston is ~1mm taller above the pin. 3.0 and 3.3 pistons sit just a hair below flush with the deck of the block but vg34 pistons actually pop up just a little. The tollerance is so close with a vg34 that if you assembled one with out a head gasket and turned it over the pistons would hit the heads. And that is where you get your increase in compression ratio. Yes, I shaved my heads in 2 overlaping passes using a 4" fly cutter on a bridgeport that was zeroed to within 0.0005" before we started. But I did not modify the block at all. I actually started with a brand new vg33 short block still in factory plastic and bolted everything on from there. But now I'm getting into build details which will be another thread.... and for Auto, the TC stall point is about 2500 rpm so you actually want all your power to start there and go up becuse the TC does not slip above that RPM.

Q. A. Fully stock? I predict 15-20 with a steeper drop in torque after 4.5k rpm if you are using stock 3.3 cams in stock 3.3. With drive train loss a stock 3.3 would probably peak 144/178. Yeah I know nissannut we've pm'd a few times over the years. He's on N4W and 4x4 parts, I don't think I've seen him here tho.

My but dyno says it pulls harder esp in the 3.5-4.5k range but starts to run out of breath over 5k. A gain of 50hp seems like it would be enjoyable for anyone Intake; Port matched lower with phenolic spacer and stock upper manifold (defeats the port matching but I didn't have time to finish the job. Exhaust; Thorley long tubes, 2.25 Pipe and Cat, magnaflow muffler with a wheel well dump I would Expect a more arch like curve (not as flat) with 10-15 lower peaks for a stock 3.3 running 3.0 cams. I do like how my numbers to the wheels are almost the same as what a stock 3.0 puts out at the crank. (VG30E produced 153 hp and 182 lb·ft)

First off what is a VG33+? The "+" symbol is typically given to engines that are running a trubo on an higher compression ratio (often a previously NA engine still running the higher NA pistons) and makes more power than its factory counterpart. BUT VG33+ I built is a NA 3.3L with a CR of 10:1 (stock being only 9:1) And we should already know that a VG34 is a 3.4L with a CR between 10:1~10.3:1 Both engines should put out very similar numbers if everything else is configured the same. They dyno sheet below Is VG33+ running OEM European Z31 cams (long duration), minor port work and a heavy 24lb flywheel. (red line; vg33+ blue line; my old 3.0 for power increase comparison ) If you factor in drive-train loss vg33+ and vg34 are both ~200hp engines. I had to doctor up the sheet a little bit. The numbers are intact but it got wet and torn... it had a rough ride from Tacoma, WA to the Mojave Desert in SoCal. Build details will likely be another thread.

The FSM has a few typos in it, and looks like we have found another. If memory serves correct; AM radio is a wave typically taken in best by angular or angular coiled antennas (the L on you windshield or that square your home stereo came with that the antenna wraps around, will also receive FM esp if it has a straight segment leading to the unit) FM radio is traditionally a straight mast usually in multiples of 6" because of how the physical size of FM wavelength and how they can be divided / received. (IRC its 36" so 18" is a half wave and 6" is a quarter wave)

I use WD40 to clean up my Formula 5. I put formula 5 on all rubber poly and 'metal to non-metal' contact surfaces. Then I blast a rag with wd40 wipe off my tools any anything else I touched or a tool touched. And that's how I keep this 8oz cup of Formula 5 from sticking to my entire garage lol.

I did not, and I did not this time either. I probably put around 50k on them? Just a guess... I live in a new area now, lots more driving so we'll see how they hold up. Truck is at 260k now. I have bigger plans so as long as they last a few more lube cycles until then I am fine. the rear bushing on both sides showed very minor wear and some dirt intrusion. The fronts had zero wear and no dirt. I rotated the bushings to balance the wear. Maybe it wasn't formula 5 back then? (formula 4? lol) I had this jar for 4 years so its not that old.

It does not smell at all, its just really sticky. I just re-lubed my bushings. the drive is quiet again.

I took off my Calmini UCA's and re-lubed the bushings with energy suspension formula 5. They are now quiet again and hopefully they will stay that way for another 3 years.

Update, yeah... 4 years they are finally squeaking like mad. Time for some more "energy supension formula 5" and drive it for another 3-4 years.

http://www.techmods.net/nuvi/ after I got the file I used this site to convert it to .png so I could make it a darker blue and then convert it back to .srf for the GPS Next I think I am going to make the icon a little smaller so it does not take as much of the road. Although, I think its the beach ball that's the worst as far as being too big.