MY1PATH

Do we have epic climber #2? Time will tell if she does.

Banned for having owned too many pathfinders for too short a period of time. Also banned for having this thread die on him.

That kingman speaks from experience. It was not pretty.

correct, the two extra wires near the key are for the door chime. Everything you need to start and drive is in the large connector coming off the ignition switch at the far end.

interesting. I guess the X filter is lower because mine sits just a little in front of the CL. David and I just figured if it was straight down It'd be in the way but we did not figure it would be higher too.

bump

Does this help? http://lh5.ggpht.com/JimShepardson/SBuk_eJQbuI/AAAAAAAAAWc/GJAfH0_5mLE/2008-04-30%20valve%20covers%20003.jpg?imgmax=800 Looks like they push up through the bottom so the tube compresses them against the inside of the cover.

Can I see a picture of your R50 oil filter next to your center link?

I'm pretty sure Disc cables are different. It sucks that the yard chopped them, its only 2 brackets and and adjuster bolt to get them off.

Update, 270k

Don't forget the check ball if you use the filter on the block.

The thing that matters is the frontier / xterra Oil pump angles the filter housing forward. (watch out for your steering stabilizer) The r50 Oil pump puts the filter where the steering center link is so It cannot be used unless the filter is bypassed for using the filter location above the starter. Also 3.3 quest.villager blocks have the dipstick in the wrong location, Punch out the correct plug and move it to the one that's empty (yes dipstick plugs are reusable) You may have to remove the Main girdle to get a punch on that plug. (I used a 3.3 villager bock as it was new in a factory crate )

Lee's had a TBI sticking out the side of the bowler didn't he? Its still in work; The 10:1 3.3 (in the picture) was never intended to be a blower build. I just slapped it together for a gimmick. The VG34ER that I am slowly working on will be in there next... Turn key solution? Just bolt it on and go. A stock vg33er is 8:1 and a +ER (na with a blower added) is 9:1. At a stock boost of 4 psi there really isn't anything to worry about (just dial your timing back to about 12 degrees at idle). The nissan factory tune on NA motors is so rich that they typically do really well with low output turbo and blower swaps because the extra fuel is already there. Also, a cam with more overlap helps keep things safe because it bleeds off a little. Now my VG34ER will need tuning software because its going to be a 10:1 and probably with more than 4 psi of boost.

Its a walking contradiction that they will never update on their site. There are NO Stick (manual) Pathfinders that do not have a hydraulic clutch. This has been beaten into the ground, the notes are wrong the headers fit ALL CONFIGURATIONS OF V6 PATHFINDERS 87-95. (Emissions connections may vary.)

Pre-94, square Dash.

We'll see what happens, the front clip is pretty chewed up and there is rust hiding under every body kit piece. Probably gonna pull the kit off, fix rust and decide from there... I really want to make the front fenders look like a Baldwin Motion C3 Stingray... The one that uses Tunnel Headlights like the Z. YEP! Somebody's smart

Got mine running, but still needs brakes...

after you dry all the connections by some dielectric grease and inject in into every connector. I've had plendy of dunks and full nose submersions and none of my underhood connectors corroded from it. I think I put it on here somewhere, but my ECU is currently in the glove box. I notched the glove box liner so it doesn't take that much space in there. Eventually It will go above the glove box but space is tight there with the AC duct...

For the record, I have landed directly on my Y pipe (long tubes) while wheeling and not cracked anything. So I can attest that longer primaries resist cracking better My Y pipe also does not hang below the frame anymore... I wonder how that happened?

I hate these guys, they gave me the runarround for months and then sent me a lump of crap to the wrong address. I wound up building my own using their design but I added attachment points to beef it up. I also added quality wormanship for having pride in what I do. Search the boards here, you will find the nightmare I had to deal with.

The white powder is corrosion. Aluminm and many zinc and cad platings become a white power when they corrode. The steel lids on the M30 ECU are Cad plated so that's where the white powder came from and then once the cad was gone the base metal started to rust. The ECU does not work and it is beyond saving. Like I said, flooded road accident before I bought the car. No worries though, I have spares. Hopefully things work out well for the OP.

My M30 had been submerged at some point. (probably in a flooded road accident before I got it) All I know is it drove fine 200+ miles from where I bought it to my house and the ECU ran great. The car got stripped, parts went on warm dry shelves and 6 months later, the ECU did not work properly inside its new vehicle. Opened the case, White powdery corrosion all over plating inside the case covers and a little bit of rust where the plating had corroded away. Much closer inspection found corrosion crawling under the lamination on the circut board and the #1 injector driver had failed (forcing the injector to stay open/flood the engine) So like kingman said, it may run but it may fail of corrosion at an unexpected time.

Being in florida I think your smog exempt. The air pump only works at idle anyway. I eliminated mine when it rusted through. Just unplug it from the connector, remove it and the other weird thing thing down low and cap off all the places it was plumbed to.

If you go this route, Which worked very well for me for years (hey look my tires have tread on them in that picture!) Its very important that you retain your plastic fender liner and that it is in complete un-broken condition. Otherwise your tire will sling water and mud into your intake even on paved roads.

My wifes truck was in the same boat. But she's running round tooth too. Don't pry on the Crank gear, Get a good grip on it and pull straight back on it. While pulling rapidy tap on the end of the crank snout with a hammer. This is how I have pulled every Crank gear on every nissan I have ever worked on. The rusty ones take longer but it gets there eventually. Other than that Its a very straight foward swap and don't forget to do your camseals and crank seal. Stay away from Victor Reninz cam seals. I had my left and right cam seals leaking after 7k miles. Gates, SKF and NSK are good. But be careful, SKF has started selling other seals under their label. An SKF made seal will have SKF printed directly on the seal and usually comes in a small cardboard box. Their re-badged seals (unkown make) do not say SKF on them but come sealed in a SKF bag.