MY1PATH

Are you going to play arround with tuning on an N/A Pathfinder or do you plan on boosting it at some point?

IIRC the stock pathy studs were 5.8 and the 300zx turbo studs were 8.8.(Or maybe it was 8.8 and 10.9) The 10mm 3.3 studs are the same grade as the 3.0 pathy studs but since they are larger they offer the same or greater strength as the 8mm 300zx studs. I used studs to hold the gasket in place while I slipped the header on but after that I used all 10mm 10.9 JIS Flange head bolts on my "fancy headers". They also come in a 8mm Variation: 459-425 Part number guide Grade 10.9 Flange Head. Dorman 459-YXX Y= 4 for M8 x 1.25 Y= 5 for M10x1.25 XX= Length, 20-40 in 5mm increments XX= Length, 50-70 in 10mm increments Yes, I Freaking Love These Bolts!

I never did run it on premium in the first place. No knocking 10:1 with the stock M30 tune. Now pushing it hard here in the desert with various tuning changes and normal operating temperatures of 210F is another story... Nefarious you can run Nistune on a stock pathfinder ECU. You use a type 1 board that adds a USB port to the ecu. Honestly of all the stock tunes I have looked at I like the Pathfinder tune and think it is just fine for any mildly modified VG30 and vg33. There is a lean spot at about 50% throttle and 1,500-2,000 rpm which is right on the edge of where it comes out of O2 sensor feedback but its not really a threat. (lean as how it responded to my 10:1 probably just fine on 9:1-9.5:1) My wife will be running this 10:1 VG33 on the stock pathy ECU and Stock MAF and I will have no issues with it. The M30, N/A Z31, Maxima, Pathfinder (3.0 & 3.3) and N/A Xterra all run the same ~180cc flow rate as rated by 43.5 PSI and 80% duty cycle. This does not mean all the injectors are the same, They flow the same but physical and electrical characteristics vary such as plumbing, electrical connectors, pintle/plate design impedance, turns ratio and latency. I am running the R50/ N/A Xterra Injectors as they are of the ethanol generation (10% in all pump gas) and have ethanol insulated or isolated (not sure which) windings to ensure their longevity in today's fuels. Spray pattern, flow rate and rail fitment is the same as WD21 injectors but the connector needs to be changed out (also more weather resistant connector). All nistune .bin files are available online at their website. You only need to pay to fully run the software. You will be looking for D21 VG30E files when you want to reference the pathfinder tunes. Lastly, the question everybody asks... MPG... Its really hard to say. There are a lot of different factors overall but the only certainty is that going from my worn out 3.0 to a fresh new 10:1 3.3 improved things. (when I'm not flooring it) After that I moved to SoCal and variables continue to change: CA gas, seasonal CA Gas, many variations in altitude (I can feel the difference driving at sea level vs driving arround home @ 2,500 ft or up the hill to 4,000 ft) My Nokian Mud tires don't like the heat they were awesome on the trails up north but their softness and SUPER FLEXY SIDE WALL does not do them any favors down here; nearing baldness they are about 29.5" now(yeah they had DEEP tread and were not a true 31 to begin with). Most recently I've seen mixed driving this weekend of about 17 mpg and last winter when I went to tahoe (6,000 ft) I got 18 mpg on the way up and from there I went to rio vista (-20 FT) and and squeezed 23 on the way down. My mpg's vary greatly based on day/night driving (110F vs 60F) and if I go into town or not. but most the time my numbers float between 15-18. Hopefully some improvement will come when I get new tires that are More suitable to my driving conditions. (BFG ATs...)

more?

GOOD FIND!

84-88 300zx turbo

Anti seize has a temperature rating of 1600F this is far more than you will see at the threads of any spark plug or exhaust stud. Wanna go overkill? Anti seize copper has a temperature rating of 1800F... Yes, I know the combustion temperature reaches about 4500F but all those gases are constantly moving thus the Manifold runners themselves get hotter (up to 12-1500 in pathfinders, MEASURED) But the studs and flanges dissipate all their heat into the head.

26 psi was probably for a 235/75R15 tire? The sticker in the door is stupid, it gives a PSI rating for the tire the car was originally configured with. Unless you get the same tire the number will not be the same and even then it can change ex... Early 90's Uniroyal Laredo used to be a 6 ply tread with steel belted sidewall and would not look flat with 14 psi in it (I ran 32 psi in that tire). Todays Uniroyal Laredo is a 4 Ply and a lot more flexy. I don't think any passenger tire has a steel belted sidewall anymore? My wife has 31x10.5R15 Toyo Open Country. I'm running 31x10.5R15 Nokian Vatiiva MT

KEEP YOUR HARD LINES! They work fine. Shifting is not harder. Smooth is all about practice and the damper really does not do so much that you're going to be jerking all over the road without it. Just replace it with a union and be done with it. I did my wifes because it was bad, I did mine because I had the engine out and it was RIGHT THERE. Neither of us miss it.

Rub the tread with chalk and drive straight for 100ft Center of chalk missing = PSI too high Outside of chalk missing = PSI too low Chalk evenly worn = Drive farther and or repeat to confirm... Still evenly worn? = PSI Just right. You can add 3-5 PSI from this point to ensure proper load handling(extra passengers, daily items etc) and MPG without any added wear to the tires. For my wifes AT tires this was ~35 psi and for my soft mud tires this was ~45 PSI both the same size but ply construction and stiffness varies greatly between the two.

HOW CAN YOU SAY THIS? If the sensor detects a knock the ECU takes countermeasures to eliminate the knock. Methods vary from ECU to ECU but involve retarding ignition timing, adding more fuel and sometimes even both. On the other hand, if you have a KS code it is likely that it has been deemed defective and its input is being ignored meaning you do not have the protection that this feature offers.

If you read the previous posts I made in this thread you will see what I mean. If you follow the link to the other thread you will get an even more thorough explanation. And I probably typing this here than I would have If I had just quoted my previous posts...

but did the slave retract all the way? Since you are replacing the slave might as well bypass the damper while you have the lines clear, it will make bleeding easier too...

Nice, that's pretty much exactly what I did. For the TPS

Any oil coming out of the weep hole at the bottom of the tranny where it meets the engine? Oil on the clutch disk can make your slip up real quick. Sometimes (RARELY) the clutch damper screws up and does not allow the clutch to re-engage the flywheel. This happened on my wifes truck and so I decided to bypass it on all my vehciles. I made a thread about it here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32833-how-to-clutch-damper-bypass/?hl=%2Bclutch+%2Bbypass this is for wd21 I do not know if the location is the same on yours. Also check out IRP they have the best prices I have found on EXEDY Clutch kits (OEM PARTS) So glad I used them! http://www.importrp.com/

I've had the 3.0 and the 3.3 manifold side by side before. I don't remember all the differences but I remember deciding that the 3.0 is better. (I Wish I remember reason why) One thing to take note of is that the TPS on the 3.3 TB speaks a slightly different language. You can fit the 3.0 TPS on there but it requires some machining and a shaft swap. I did a writeup on it but I think I only posted it to Z31P... Maybe I posted it here too, I can't remember. (did it on the 3.3 TB on my supercharger)

I bet nobody knows my plate number...

I may have been a little over reactive on my previous post; it's simply a mod I will not be doing to my N/A Vg33. A 60mm or 62mm TB (stock is 58mm?) would certainly add a more snappy feel to a pathfinder (or a z31) and probably be of no harm at all compared to what I described above but a 90mm is too large and entirely unnecessary unless you are making like 300+ HP. Speaking of the 300HP the Q45 VH45DE with a 90mm TB uses a special linkage mechanism to slow the opening of the throttle at light throttle to give more precise control and prevent lunging. The thing is, installing a bigger TB tricks a lot of people. Say you have a 60mm TB and you replace it with a 90mm TB... The opening is 66% larger. Now when you drove around at 1/8 (13%) throttle with the 60mm and then you do the same with the 90mm its really more like driving around with 20% By the same token if your engine reached is flow capacity at 100% throttle on the 60mm then the engine will reach its flow capacity at 66% open with the 90mm Better throttle response yes, but You can duplicate the same effect without changing your TB by just pushing the pedal into the floor a little faster. A TB is nothing more than an air flow control valve and for controlling small amounts of air smaller is more accurate. Example: If you go too large you lose some of your light throttle control. I you are trying to just CREEP up a rock it will be more difficult to be gentle on a larger TB because the changes in airflow are more dramatic. So why did nissan go to larger for the 3.3? My guess is marketing: If it feels snappier it must be faster. A good example is The VG33ER with its 8:1 compression ratio, choked down cam and restrictive manifolds is quite sluggish before it gets into boost. To cover this up nissan uses a super aggressive throttle linkage found only on the ER TB that whips it into boost from closed throttle almost instantly. I think this is also why you find the larger TB's on the smaller 4 cyl engines; Make it more snappy so it feels faster than it is lol.

NOPE, NO, Not at all. 7,500 rpm WOT and no excessive restriction shown on the VAC gauge. The choke point on the pathfinder intake is the MAF. Going to a larger throttle when you don't need to just reduces the smoothness of your low throttle control (0-20% opening) and throws off your ECU TPS scales.

Now running nistune for a few months now. And presently a variaton of the vg30e maxima 5 speed fuel map and a hybrid of the maxima and d21 timing map has been treating me very well. The M30 maps are way rich under heavy load and they back off a lot of timing under heavy load too. They would actually be quite ideal for boost without any additonal tuning. That's another thing: The M30 maps are all AT ONLY so for 5 speed owners you might feel a slight hessitation getting going from a stop because AT's do not accelerate from idle (and thus little tuning refinement in the lower RPM range) like MT's do.

Oh I like it! The wind gets on my nerves but at least I have sun EVERY DAY! Yeah he's toppled some things on himself a few times... there comes a time when you draw the line between child proof and hard learning curve. He crosses it a lot lol

Thanks! yeah, he climbs on counters... Climbs the TV stand for the remote... uses the fridge handle to get to freezer handle... not sure where he's going with that one? climbs the moving parts of our bench swing in the back yard... .... He had it really bad a few months ago but I think he's finally starting to understand not everything is for climbing. (so glad he stopped with the dressers and bookshelves.

I've never seen a fill plug on an AT. But they usually have extra large dipstick tubes that you can slide a funnel into and fill that way.

Why not 33x10.50? They fit on stock pathfinders and offer better fuel economy than the 12.50 variant.

Tigers are banned and so are their avatars.