MY1PATH

The Odometers on these vehicles only have 5 digits so it says "52K" but that could also be 152k, 252k or 352k... the seller didn't know either. From 2000-2010 the car was a daily driver. 2010-2012 it got parked and started / maybe taken for a cruize once a month. 2012-2014 it was parked and forgotten about. It would not run on its own when I bought it. I'm pretty certain its 252k or 352k but I really have no way of knowing for sure now do it?

If you click on it you can see closer via the photobucket link. Everything interior is orignal exept the pedals, brake and shifter handle and steering wheel. All sheetmetal is straight (some of it rusting) the side skirts, front air dam, spoiler and rear bumper are aftermarket. The whole car was rattle canned silver hence why it looks like crap, it did not hold up to the weather. Original color is black. Under the hood allot of stuff is missing (nothing critical) and even more will be missing when I get done cleaning up. And came with headers Good floor pan, a little rust on the left frame rail and a little rust holes hiding under ALL the fiberglass body parts.

Find any hotwheels Nunya? Cause I found mine! And I'm already tearing it apart.

A K&N 33-2031-2 drop in filter http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=33-2031-2 Freely flows over 400 CFM (450 @ 1.5" H2o restriction) http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/33-2031-2.pdf This would be sufficent up to 300 HP. (choose your favorite CFM to HP calcuator and plug the numbers in) For reference, a stock vg33er runs the same filter and only makes 210 HP so it can grow another 90 HP before air flow becomes a problem. A ceaper Drop In is probably a little less than this but not by much. The verdict; I stock is already High flow, it flows double what the stock engine even needs. Now cleaning up your air box and deleting resonators on the other hand helps because the flow comes through the that filter much better.

Pathfinders already have Cold air intakes. they pull the air from the fender well outside the engine bay.

yes, there was the pf hood a flat ventless hood (not common) a ventless hood with a slight hump in the middle(common)

I would have had the ignition re-keyed before you put it in. that way all your keys and all 4 of your locks stay the same.

On a VERY serious note, If anybody can help me find a 1969-1975 Datsun Z Car (240z/260z/280z) And I end up buying it I will pay them a finders fee. But, here's the catch: I will only buy a 2+2 model

you can but the 87-95? MT has different gear ratios in favor of wheeling. (.852 5th off the top of my head) The R50 you're looking at will turn a lower RPM on the highway with its stock tranny(.811 5th off the top of my head) and a higher RPM on the freway if you put the 93 transmission (.852) in it. Other thoughts, canibalize the two? use the .811 5th gear from the 96 in the 93 tranny to make a wheeler tranny that curises well?

Kyle, HB's got both lights and all 3 hoods. Pathys only got one lights and one hood.

yeah stick with Glass, or the euro glass in the e-bay link. The euro glass needs H4 bulbs and plugs. Rock auto sells the OE glass ones.

Last I checked Rock auto sells the 5x7's for the HB complete with mounting brackets so all you need is the grille which they also sell. They also list foreign market parts but i do not know if your euro lights are on there...(goes to search) EDIT: no euro bulbs listed and the Headlamp Assemblies are sealed beam only(under body exterior). But for $38 a side that's not bad for getting you started with all new mounting hardware. Upgrade to euro's later and keep the sealed beams as spares. (ADDS ITEM TO CART for later)

IMHO the (hardbody) 5x7's are the best option, they sit farther back, take harder hits when being back is not enough, and the H4 versions (vs sealed beam 5x7's) offer much better lighting in both USDM and Euro versions. Not to mention The 5x7 size will be around forever, they were used on millions of cars around the world whereas the Pathfinder lights were specific to just pathfinders.

EDIT the xpel covers for stock headlights do not fit the clear lenses, order a sheet the correct size and trim it yourself

The OEM European Housings look the same as on the outside as the USDM but run H4 bulbs and the light pattern runs a sharper cut off. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400194581120?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'm waiting until my bumper includes headlight protection before I get another matching set. I have used a set of the clear ones for many years, They are plastic and the first thing I did was put xpel covers on them. http://www.xpel.com/products/headlight.asp This stopped sand and stones from scratching them up for years and finally it held all the plastic in place when I plowed into a log hiding in a bush... Also, a lot of light leaks out of the top and sides of the lenses so I painted the border to reduce unwanted light scattering. After that they were pretty good. Bright light pattern but not as even as stock, If you aim them so left overlaps right a little it evens out allot.

DO you have a picture w/o the dash of the right side where the blower motor and ac ducts are?

I lied, I just pulled up the MPFI pathfinder wire diagram and my Nistune ECU harness notes. The side by side images told me that the MPFI Pathfinders use the SR20 connector (Very neat and compact) instead of the 'typical' VG30 connector. But again, the diagnostic wires are not in the SR20 locations either. One day I may try to add them and see if I can connect to the ecu.

At this time I have no information to add on connecting a stock pathfinder ECU to any kind of diagnostic interface. The wires for this connector are the same for nearly all 90's vg30 ecu that are capable of using a diagnostic interface but these are not present in the stock pathfinder ECU connector.

ECU Code 31; [Don't] Replace ECU I don't think this has been covered before and it may provide useful to someone someday. If you get a code 31 which is an indicator of an ECU calculation error (how it determines timing and fuel maps) the FSM suggests you replace the ECU with new. A fault within the ECU (shorts, worn out components, broken or corroded circuts, broken or corroded solder joints etc..) can cause this and if that it the case it is reasonable to repair or replace the ECU... BUT a code triggering fault can happen outside the ECU as well and this is what I call a Non-ECU Code 31 (a faked code) So what can cause a non-ECU Code 31? Typically wiring issues, most commonly when a 12v source crosses a sensor input or when a few sensor inputs cross ground. Old heat damaged harnesses might be prone to this as well as rodents chewing on wires but you should also look for places a harness may have chaffed and grounded out on the area chafing it. Also, a jolt or shock to the wiring harness that specifically happened in the harness or a sensor (not inside the ECU) can cause this. Lastly, as I have recenly discovered, trying to connect to the ecu via a conslut device or other means using the 14 pin data connector on the harness when said connector is not wired correctly. What are the symptoms of a non-ECU Code 31? Check Engine Light... Code 31 (possibly others) when you go to pull codes from the ECU. Other Symptoms vary, it may throw multiple codes for the sensors that were shorted or it may throw multiple other codes seemingly at random. TPS (23) and Injector Circut (51) can typically be among this list but again symptoms vary. Often when a code 31 is stored the ECU will not let you erase any of the stored codes in a fasion that you would normally clear stored codes. This is a failsafe to prevent a user from erasing the most critical code in the engine management system. Despite all the codes your vechicle may seem too opperate 90% normal with the occasional hiccup here and there. (worse if your short is causing other problems) How do I determine its a non-ECU Code 31 vs a legitamate code 31 and how do I fix it? A non-ECU Code 31 (and all other codes) can be fully cleared by disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU for more than 24 hours. During this time you should check all your wire harnesses for chafing, dry rotting, heat damage, rodent damage etc... If you have done an ECU retro fit, a MPFI conversion, wire harness swap or anything else similar you should get out your diagrams and double check all that too. (Check connector/ 14 pin conslult diagram is not listed clearly in the FSM I will provide more information later) If you had a Non-ECU Code 31 and you found the real electrical problem you should, after 24 hours, be able to reconnect your vehicle and resume driving like normal with no issues, no codes and no check engine light. Summary A Code 31 is not very common (real or fake) but you should always try to rule everything else out before you mistakenly throw away a good ECU. A fake code 31 Its kinda like the ECU gets a little bug and it needs a good hard reset (24 unplugged) for it to shake it and start fresh.

yeah, never said they were good, just popular....

Any welder or machine shop should be able to make a clean airtight weld for you. The bung can be found in some stores and online like summit racing and the sender usually comes with whatever gauge KIT you buy.

Yes, in terms of Mainstream 4cyls found in almost every nissan... that's the KA. In terms of 4 banger modding its kind of a tie, lotta cars that came with KA's got modded with KA's but the SR20 also took a popular seat in the 4 banger modding crowd and is a very common Nissan engine swap

1 Unscrew Banjo Bolt it from the transmission. A banjo bolt is a bolt with a hollow center and a cross hole to feed fluids from a pressurized bolt hole into banjo fitting and fluid line. 2 Run a same size or undersize drill through the hollow tip until it breaks through the other side. (now you have a centered hole in the head) 3 Drill head of bolt with a 11/32" or 3/8" drill STOP BEFORE THE BIT REACHES THE CROSS HOLE IN THE BOLT 4 Drill head again with a drill the size of the lip on the NPT Bung BUT ONLY DRILL 3/32" DEEP 5 Insert lip of NPT Bung into head and weld in place. TIG is preferred because of the small weld size and less cleanup required (I did mine with MIG but it took more cleanup to fit a wrench back on it) 6 Re-install NPT Banjo Bolt into the transmission and then install your temp sender into the NPT bolt. There are 2 banjo bolts, Outlet is on the right near the pan and inlet is on the left about half way up. If you install the sensor on the right side you will be getting pre-cooler temperatures or how hot the fluid is coming directly out of the TC. (TC is where most the heat comes from when unlocked) If you install the sensor on the left side you will get COOLED temperatures or how hot the fluid is going into the clutches and valve body. ( think this is more important because these are the components that are effected the most by excessive heat)

FYI my truck is my daily driver. 0.050" would be reliable so long as you have a thicker sleve made for the T-belt tensioner. Mine is also reliable, 7k miles on this engine and zero mechanical issues from the build. I would say zero Issues overall, but I did have an injector fail. However that injector was ~20 years old and acting up a little before the swap too. The rest of the engine and its parts are new. I am now running r50 injectors (ethanol resistance and possibly better spray pattern) and have not had an issue since.

Tranny pads seldom fail on these vehicles but Torn motor mounts (ESP Driver Side) can be fairly common and will make your shifter jump under load. A clunk under acceleration/braking can also be attributed to upper and lower link bushings being wore out but I think R50's are still too new for those to be a common issue.