MY1PATH

MC's are Marked! for Pathy and z32 etc... Some are valved for rear drum and others are valved for rear disc. Size code below. BM33 = 13/16 BM38 = 7/8 BM44 = 15/16 BM50 = 1" BM57 = 1 1/16 Both my trucks say BM50 but my 89 was originally a BM44.

Fresh tank of gas too!

Just go to the auto store and get a Temp sensor for your turck. It will be the one with a square 2 pin plug it shouldn't cost much. It will be located on the Drivers CYL head up front just behind the timing cover. You will have to pull the AC idler to get to it. Use scribe to CAREFULLY remove the wire clip before trying to unplug it and then remove it with a 19mm deep socket and swivel joint.

It happens for a number of reasons. Weak connections in the Door lock timer. Broken hardware or sensor bracket inside the door that triggers the system when closed. Faulty alarm system switch. (this can also cuase non-starts depending on which swithc is faulty.) My solution was to repair the door switch AND remove the alarm system. Yeah I don't have use of the remote anymore but the doors & starter act like they should.

Go to the how-to section, Its all there. step by step with pictures. blocks go on top of stock mounts with longer bolts. There are special ways to get to some of the bolts and special ways to correctly align the rear bolts without letting the body slip crooked on you while its on jacks. Read the how-to, its all there.

BTW if one of your rubber mounts is cracked or dry rotted THEN go buy that doorman part. ONE hockey puck may be good for ONE INCH. Don't start stacking them, stuff starts bending and flexing in ways it shouldn't. You lift block should be ONE solid piece.

Nice thing about a BL; a lot of jobs get easier with the extra space. I only have a 1" BL on mine and pulling the trans and removing a header were both much easier than they were before the BL. Use the 4x4 parts kit. The main difference between kits for MOST other vehicles is the bolts. 4wheel parts stores sell generic lift blocks from 1" to 4" and if you source your own bolts (order through Fastenal) your 90% there. The last 10% is things like fuel tube extension, drive shaft hoop extension and parking brake cable relocation...

ALL OF THEM, Its a complete service manual. They are linked to each other so when you click on EL (electrical) on the Title page it will take you there. For this reason you should also not rename them or separate them because then the links stop working.

A properly working fan clutch will always have free movement when the engine is off. "full lock up" to "unlocked" is actually a ratio of 80% to 20% pulley speed as controlled by a thermal clutch. Usually when they fail they completely lock up for real and rob you of lots of power under acceleration. I've replaced a several like that in various cars over the years but I have never had to replace one for not being able to cool the engine.

If you really want your compressor to pump try putting it in P or N and holding the throttle to 1,100 - 1,500 rpm while you are waiting in traffic. This usually gets our work trucks to cool down a little sooner for us while we are loading up.

Welcome and congrats on your 100% VA benefit. Not taking your injuries lightly, but getting 100% for it can sometimes be more difficult than it should be. Have fun with your new family adventure vehicle.

Don't over do it if you test the AC pressure. Too much pressure in the AC will also make it not as cold. PO on my 93 over charged it and when we moved to the desert I let about 20psi out of it and it started blowing cold in 110F weather. Also test your Idle up solenoid, It should be kicking up your idle when the AC is running so that the compressor spins at the appropriate minimum speed to keep you cool. I think If your idle is dipping below 900 with the compressor running that could be your problem.

My 93 just broke 260,000 this month and Still running strong unlike my 89 which needed a VG33 swap right at 259,999.9 miles

Pulled this out of my old notes... Rancho 999333 are 24.3" extended - works on most stock and lifted pathfinders Rancho 999112 are 26" extended* - more drop travel but MOST springs get really loose and some fall out at full drop (these are what I have) Rancho 999046 are 27" extended* - Requires minimum 3" taller spring free length than stock (these were out of stock when I bought the above) *parking brake cables will not be long enough at full droop so limit straps or flipping your axles (disc only, I think I did a write up on it) is highly recommended.

Yes they will fit. 87-95 Have the SAME port configuration and fitment to the heads and the exhaust system is the same for 87-95. The difference comes when you go to hook your smog equipment up: 87-89 Has EGR and Pulsed air recirculation fittings. 90-95 Has EGR ONLY and the fitting is in a different location than the older models.

Are you using the metal sleeve that keeps the nut from over squeezing the bushing? Are you installing the washers Cup side AWAY from the bushing? Is your LCA bushing in good condition?

Many of "Victor Reinz" gaskets come from a Nissan OE supplier. Their seals on the the other hand DO NOT!!!

Dropped the pin from a broken shifter bushing into the transmission Its still in there. And discovered a loose flywheel bolt was the reason for my clutch sticking....

Here is a true side by side of Thorley Long and Short tubes. However, I do not think Thorley long tubes are available anymore. Thorley Long tubes make getting to the upper starter bolt extremely difficult and the passenger side MUST COME OFF to pull the transmission. The bolts are easier to install because of the different tube arrangement but I do not like how short the rear primary is on the short tubes... I guess that's the price you pay for more convenient packaging...

While doing this mod it's also a good time to replace the Rubber hose that goes to the slave and inspect the slave and master for wear. My slave had a lot of rust in the bore from wheeling and it was picking away at the seal. More info on those components here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40310-braided-stainless-clutch-line/

Yes, we should...

Been a long time since I worked on TBI... Does swapping around injectors still net the same problem? I think #2 is only used under load; as in real life driving conditions. (Idle and free-revving in the garage do not introduce any load) I've had bad injectors both NEW and REMAN so don't rule that out. Check your engine harnesses, especially where the bundle runs between the battery and radiator. CAREFULLY Clean your MAF Cyl Head Temp Sensor working right? (the one behind the timing cover) Does Unplugging the O2 sensor do anything? Just go through each part and check it out.

I am running an N60 MAF(m30 ECU and Nisstune). They are good for about 320 HP and can be found on M30's and Maximas. There is a wiring guide in my M30 thread but connecting it to a stock pathy ECU will throw off your AFR's (make you run lean).

BTW the restriction in the stock intake is NOT the throttle body. Its the Stock MAF. I have verified this with my 3" maf and vacuum gauge running a VG33 up to 7,000 RPM on a stock wd21 throttle body. After seeing this, many times, I have no desire to spend my time $$ or energy on a TB upgrade. I think 4 cyl's typically get larger-than-needed throttle bodies to give them a snappier throttle response to make up for the smaller displacement.

Yes, they work on stock manifolds. The flange head is the size of a regular washer. I still recommend using a washer for expansion characteristics. Thanks on the kid, I don't update my picture often... he's almost 4 now... but we did just have another.