MY1PATH

To be more specific, he was with me when I discovered that little bolt hole and his words were something like "huh, I'll have to do it that way next time" I know there was at least one 'next time' since then on a pathfinder but these don't just go into pathfinders and its hard to say how many more he will do and into what vehicles... He will sell his available parts to any paying customer but beyond that, he picks and chooses who he works for and what he does. Just buy his adapter hub and do the swap locally using this thread as a guide.

you should get that fixed... you should get that fixed...

I've been doing that trick for a few months now, Friday it was really hot and that trick wasn't working.

FYI for all those going this route, you do not need to cut and weld the tab on the water pipe, Simply bolt it to the bottom hole on this bracket and everything fits just fine. This is how I did it and this is how Mr510 is now doing his future swaps.

Yes! I have a pretty good idea how it goes but seeing it done once and reading your input will make things smoother. I intend to have 1 key that works in both my Nissan.

CAST? I aways thought it would be a simple enough doubler to make out of plate...

Made more progress on my bomber skid... Boxing the inside edges of the louvers, adding recessed holes etc...

Was this with rear disc? Was the chevy MC for rear disc?

You have to bleed the ABS before you bleed the rear wheels.

Now I must correct myself because I overlooked a detail that simplifies things; the vg33er alty runs on its own belt in the same position as the 3.0 and the VG33ER water pump and PS pump share a belt. So it REALLY goes like this to swap into a WD21 w/d22 vg33e or vg33er PS pump on 3.3 PS mount bracket, water pump, lower coolant pipe and lower radiator hose. (the water pump is offset different to align the pulley with the PS pump on the 3.3) VG33ER Tensioner pulleys for SC and PS Pump VG30 alty/compressor mounts (unmodified), VG30 AC compressor with VG33er compressor pulley (NA pulley does not have enough ribs) and alternator (pathy quest maxima etc whatever you are running) with the 3.3 ribbed pulley Run stock SC A/C belt and stock water PS belt for the ER. Run whatever length alty belt depending on the size of tensioner bracket you used (to fit whatever atly you have)

Did you try bleeding again? There might still be some air in there.

I think somone on N4W did. Its been a looooong time since I saw that thread tho.

In and out I am a ready welder fan when it comes to getting a High amp welder on a budget. Sure its expensive but find a Plug in Mig that will weld 1/2" plate for less than $1000 Invest in one of these and a pair of deep cycle batteries and you welding becomes portable and flexible. Use with Flux core, gas or Dual Shield (my favorite) Using 3 batteries I was able to to weld on 1" thick Clevis loops and make the opposite side of a 3/8 plate glow after welding a joint together. That's all the penetration you need right there! Now for body work and thin metals; by all means get a little plug in welder that you can dial down easily to not burn holes in things.

I like the Idea of a VH45DE under the hood... there are 350 swaps out there, a few on youtube and a few on other boards. there is also a 4.3 vortec on this board. FYI The 4.3 will run on a nissan ECU you just have to adapt the connectors.

That's come down, when i first looked they were near $600 Each! or $1200 for a pair.

Making it 2wd Sheds about 400 lbs...

Curb weight of the pathfinder sits around 4k lbs. a little more for the 4dr a little less for the 2 dr. If its any consolation to ya my 3.3 got me 18 mpg on its best tank pulling a 4k lb trailer from Tacoma, WA to the Mojave Desert, CA Your right, It really does come down to what its worth to you. I had about $2k wrapped up into my build and install and I'd say it was the most bang for buck power mod I Have ever done to my truck. Better than headers, better than intake job, better than exhaust, better than K&N and better than Sequential fuel injection. (Of course all the above contribute to a higher final outcome as well)

WHat is all this Swap ECU and Wire harness bullcrap? First off all the 3.3 ecu's are CRAP too much codes for things the pathfinder doesn't have. (evap canister sensors, pre-cat o2 sensors, vapor pressure sensors... the list goes on) There are hundreds of Turbo swaps that happen on stock N/A ECU's all the time. And Hundreds more that only run romulators or moded ECU's AN ECU IS NOT TIED TO A SPECIFIC ENGINE. If it runs a V6 with fixed cams then it runs a v6 with fixed cams. There is no reason why a stock vg30 ecu cannot handle a stock 3.3 or stock 3.3ER. When you decide to turn up the boost get nistune or JWT or An LC1 wideband tuner so you can keep yourself in the safe zone! True, the blower is ~2 inches taller. the biggest issue is the snout, the hood slopes down but the snout with the pulley does not. the X engine sits about 3" lower in the engine bay There are 2 hoods for the X and fronty and yes the SC ones are raised. Just happens, certain year HB hoods are also a little raised in the center.

Sure it is! (looks that way so far...) Grab the entire VG33ER accessories and all. I am still working on this but It should look something like this... you use the pathfinder accessory rail for the AC and alty but you use the ER compressor pulley on the pathfinder compressor. You chop the alty mount back a bit or splice in the lower half of the ER accessory rail to get the offset right. then you run all the ER pulleys belts and steering pump and Coolant pipe. the alternative is to swap everything VG33ER and retro fit the A/C hoses somehow because the O-rings are a different size.

I guess Koenigsegg is going to make my next set of cyl heads lol

eXHAUST leaks are a huge source for lost power.

change your rad and flush your tranny. Capping the rad is a band aid, making sure your tranny fluid is free of water is priority.

You can reuse stock 3.0 cams in a 3.3! that's the cheapest way to upgrade the cams in a 3.3 when doing a 3.3 swap. I highly recommend it over leaving the stock 3.3 cams in there. Why wouldn't they be? I got mine directly from directly from Nissan for $200 a few years ago. I'm pretty sure they are from Nisssan but you can call and ask if you have any doubts

The price is the same as the minute I posted here ($250) Euro Cams are Nissan cams. They came stock in european z31t. They should have come stock in very vg3x

THe vg33 has no top end because it has baby cams. So letting it breathe later just shifts the bottom end upward. (retarding the cams) throw some 3.0 cams or euro cams in there and it will have the same effect while running stock cam timing. My euro cams are advanced ~3 degrees and they still make peak torque at 4800 rpm. Hmm, I should play around with my cam gears and see If I can squeeze another 10 ponies out....