MY1PATH

This is wrong information. You cannot adjust the Idle Via the ECU with the pathfinder. YES I am aware some have sticker on the ECU that says "Idle Adjustment" this sticker is wrong from the factory, the correct sticker displays a warning about not over turning the diagnostics screw. NOW The proper procedure is as follows. FSM 1994 Pathfinder EF/EC Page 26 Disconnect IACV-AAC valve sub-harness connector. Adjust engine speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw (A/T in "N" position). A/T: 700 rpm M/T: 700 rpm (Then there's an Arrow pointing to an Illustration of the idle screw under intake) Reconnect IACV-AAC valve sub-harness connector. While specified in the FSM unplugging this is not really necessary unless you suspect it is being problematic. So Like I said earlier... Factory idle with everything off and IACV plugged in is 750 +/- 50 RPM You may find 800-850 is a little smoother, no need to go over 900. It also begins with page 25 about checking the ignition timing first AND loops back to page 25 to verify the timing after the idle has been set. If your timing is too retarded your idle will drop if your timing is advanced your idle will come up some. Proper setting 15 BTDC +/- 2. And if it won't go up to at least 750 plugged (or 700 unplugged) something else may be wrong.

This is wrong information. You cannot adjust the Idle Via the ECU with the pathfinder The proper procedure is as follows. FSM 1994 Pathfinder EF/EC Page 26 Disconnect IACV-AAC valve sub-harness connector. Adjust engine speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw (A/T in "N" position). A/T: 700 rpm M/T: 700 rpm (Then there's an Arrow pointing to an Illustration of the idle screw under intake) Reconnect IACV-AAC valve sub-harness connector. While specified in the FSM unplugging this is not really necessary unless you suspect it is being problematic. So Like I said earlier... Factory idle with everything off and IACV plugged in is 750 +/- 50 RPM You may find 800-850 is a little smoother, no need to go over 900. And if it won't go up to at least 750 plugged (or 700 unplugged) something else may be wrong.

Unfortunately, there is a very small list for Approved Weld in cats for CA on the pathfinder and because its CA they are only about $10 cheaper than the direct fit ones.

I'm in, if I can remember to check in here, I don't get notifications on threads, so I miss out on allot of stuff.

UPDATE: Prices have doubled since I started this thread

What's it idling at? I think the screw stops turning up idle when you are about 1 thread from flush. -Do you have an EGR leak? This can bring your idle down. -Is the wire harness from your valve cover to your IACV intact? (plugs into the opposite side of where your idle screw is, hard to see) -How are your spark plugs?

The idle adjustment screw for the vg30e is on the driver side of the intake manifold. It will be on the underside of the manifold right next to the firewall with the head facing the brake booster. The screw is about the size of a dime and is sometimes covered with sealant or a rubber plug (not needed). Make 1/4 and half turn adjustments revving the engine lightly and letting it settle OUT it faster (counter clockwise). Factory idle with everything off and IACV plugged in is 750 +/- 50 RPM You may find 800-850 is a little smoother, no need to go over 900.

If you are going to replace them all you can try using the vg33E injectors (R50, wd22, quest, villager) they are the same flow rate and fit the same but the internal windings are insulated against ethanol exposure and the newer style connectors are less prone to corrosion.

I also recommend good seals (Gates, Nissan OEM,SKF, Timken; SKF and Timken seals will have their Name printed directly on them) It would suck to spend 8 hours on a t-belt and seal job just to take it apart again in 7k miles for a bad seal. This was my experience last weekend. Engine only has 7k miles on it and the passenger cam seal was leaking 1 qt per 1,000 miles... I guess the seals that come in Victor-Reinz boxes (they don't make the seals) are not as good as their other products.

20 ohm's seems really high, but then again you said it was really cold. Did you Ohm the injectors after the truck had warmed up? You should get 10~14 after they have run for a few minutes. Crapmini has a reputation for $#!ty work and poor customer service, they pretty much wash their hands of you as soon as they pay the postage on your product. There is a possibility that your IA is bent too. Walk into a parts store and ask too look at a new one, you shouldn't have to buy it just to lay a brace on it and see if its close...

IF I ever see 12 I start looking real hard for problems, No pathy I ever had (3) or pathy engine configuration (5) ever got less than 14 when everything is running right. The only time I didn't look for problems is when I got 12 pulling a 2.5 ton trailer through grid lock with my vg33+. All that stop and go and I was using low (2 low) range for better creeping in traffic. My best tank with that 2.5 ton trailer was 18 mpg taking 99 south at exactly 55mph the whole tank. On average my vg33+ gets around 15-16 cause I like to have fun and I downshift more than I need to for silly things like going up hills, passing people, beating out loud Hondas etc... When I stop having fun and start shifting early (25-2800rpm) and stay in 5th for passing slow cars up hills etc I get 16-21 and I suspect it will go up when I switch from soft lumpy MT Tyres to firmer smoother AT Tires...

I would not trust the life of my engine to an unknown timing belt. Its the only part in that kit whose failure has the potential cause immediate catastrophic engine damage. For this reason, I exclusively run gates or OEM timing belts no matter how poor I am.

Be aware, ka24 injectors are fine but stay away from ka24de if you can (or any 4 valve engine for that matter) because the DE engines use a split spray pattern to spray 2 valves at once. When mounted in a 2 valve engine they wind up spraying the port walls and puddling the fuel.

The the MAF and Injectors are 2 essential variables that make up an equation to define your AFR. The nissan ECU uses a number within this equation (called K Constant by NisTune) to balance how one effects the other. When you change one or the other you change your K constant to balance the equation. If you do not have NisTune, you have to balance both sides yourself because you cannot change the K constant.... A MAF sensor tells the engine how much air is going to the engine. If you bore it out or go to a larger one it tells the engine there is less air going to the engine and leans out your fuel. Why? Because the opening is larger so more of the air is NOT going to the sensor. This is considered to be a 'higher resolution MAF' it takes greater changes of airflow to make the same voltage changes to the sensor output. You can balance this equation by going to larger injectors or higher fuel pressure a the same time because even though they flow more the modified MAF is telling the ECU to restrict them more. Beware, your target fuel pressure should stay between 30-60 psi above this and you get poor metering from the injector cycle and below this you get poor atomization coming out of the injector. You should be monitoring all these results with a wide-band AFR gauge to help you track how well you are balancing the equation. If you have an N60 MAF and 180cc injectors (typical stock Nissan scenario) upgrading in balanced pairs would look like this. N62 and 270cc Cobra MAF and 500cc In theroy, and I have not tested this, for a pathfinder it would look like this stock and 180cc (true) n60 and 270cc (theoretical) n62 and 320cc (theoretical) Now to simplify things even more, the ecu can compensate for small changes and small changes is really all you need for running an N/A 3.3 (180-210 HP depending on how its built) or N/A VG34 (190-220 HP depending on how its built) The stock 180cc is just a hair lean up top when you make 200hp out of a VG. You can get away with this and leave the fuel pressure alone if you don't have your foot in it all the time but if you like to step on the gas and like to rev high then the duty cycle of the injectors will be about maxed (over 80% duty cycle and they start to fail). A small dent in the top of a stock FPR can raise the fuel pressure by 10psi making your effective flow rate more like 196 or 200 or 210 (47 or 50 or 53psi vs stock 43.5) AND your o2 sensor will see this enrichening and the ECU will be able to partially compensate for it when your are off the throttle while still giving you more fuel where you need it. This is really all you need for 200hp, yes the stock MAF is a major restriction but unless you are really trying to make more than 200 HP I would not mess with it. And yes your vacuum gauge may never reach 0 at WOT with your 3.3/3.4 swap while using the stock MAF but 1-3 hg vacuum isn't that bad. I have 2 pathfinders, one is running an N60 MAF (It came with the M30 ECU I'm running so the tune is already correct for it) but honestly at 200hp (which it is right now) I think it would be fine with a stock pathy MAF if it was running a stock pathy ECU. Eventually my 2nd pathfinder will be getting the 3.3 and it will be running a stock pathy MAF and Stock flow rate injectors and it will be fine. I May or may not bump the fuel pressure (put a dent in the top of the regulator until it reads 47 psi) but that's about it.

Hit the nail on the head there! CA has a difference between "engine change" and "engine replacement" An engine replacement can certify smog as the original year model vehcile An engine change must certify as whatever make and model the new engine came from(basically it has a 1989 vin but it appears as a 1993 in its smog registration per mandate from official smog referee) provided 1, the standard is equal to or higher than stock and 2 all emissions equipment for that donor make and model is included. I can re certify my truck as a 93 but the passing standard for a 93 may have been higher than it was for a 90. And like silverton mentioned if it passes for 90 I might be able to get around whole re certify process from the very beginning.

Cool thanks, So the bar code on the right must either be a CA thing or a newer model thing. 88G10 appears to be the sticker code for 1990 Federal emissions MPFI Pathfinders

I have seen 3 where the EGR passages where so full of soot they appeared to completely block the flow of EG. Other than those 3 I have not looked closely at very many.

Replaced some leaky cam seals, ran to the store to get the right crank seal because they gave me the wrong one in the right box and did some body adjustments to my core support using a pry bar and my front bumper for leverage. For the first time in 6 years... ...I closed my hood all the way Before these adjustments it used to sit 1.5" higher than the front edge of the fenders.

Yes, the one under the hood, I already have the oil and vacuum diagrams but I need the one that says "important vehicle information across the top" It will have the 15* ignition timing labeled on it. (my TBI -obsolete- label says 12*) as well as the correct engine family codes for the MPFI... Bonus points if it says "State of California on it" in the last column of text. Here's what my 93 one looks like, Photoshop can make it say 1990 but the bar code numbers and numbers on the bottom may not be correct for 1990.

I got a bottle of that stuff but I think its Not gonna help me here, that product is designed to CLEAN ENGINES of blockages and buildup that happens over time, If you read the instructions, its completely used up and you have a new tank of gas by the time you are ready to test. I have a Brand New Engine (I pulled it out of a factory crate myself) with 7k Miles on it, New Fuel system with 2k miles on it, EGR system only hooked up for the last 2k miles(yes this smog component contributes to build up which can cause failure later on...) I use Chevron with Techron on a regular basis so that helps keep things clean.

Rare 90 two door (Preferred) or 90 four door VG30E Can you take a picture of your emission label under the hood for me? It says important vehicle information across the top. I already have one for a 1993 so I'm only interested in 1990. Thanks!

Just bolt them on working from the center out in a pattern. Your rockers should be off and all your valves should be shut so there's nothing to mess up anyway. If you don't have the FSM I suggest you download one and read it.

I can, and I have a 93 hood to borrow. I'll just look like a goon with a different color hood lol.

They are against most modifications, even though my modification is better for the environment than TBI (assuming everything else works lol). So when my vacuum diagram obviously didn't look like the vacuum system they were inspecting (they check the function of EGR and the carbon canister purge) they noticed right away.

The factory one is probably overkill and over priced. I'll get a new magnaflow and see if they will smog me again. They wanted me to go to the "Smog Referee" because its an engine CHANGE not an engine REPLACEMENT. Both TBI and MPFI are listed as fuel injected vehicles but the engine appearance not matching the vacuum diagram under the hood set them off a little and when I failed the tail pipe emissions they said no way, see the Referee...