MY1PATH

http://www.vehiclesforgarminnuvi.com/ I just found this site. Custom made vehicles for the Garmin nuvi... There is a 4 door nissan terrano in there with a sunroof. Aside from color, Looks like my 93 pathy, even has the same style bumper... I think its in the last set on the offroad tab...

its not on a sticker under your hood? try nicoclub.com/fsm

my pics are in here somewhere but I tore it out and am re-doing it to match my new air box. 2" or 4" cut in half is a tight fit towards the front but there is JUST enough room. (On a WD21 at least.) My new design will be a custom molded fiberglass duct 1.5x3" and mate up to a small scoop on top of the fender. The scoop will be removable so I can add a full snorkel if I need it.

Wait what? He can't? So where did I get them? Yes they sell in USA, the are considered a performance upgrade and were marketed by NisMo for some time! And Last I heard, Nissan is actually trying to liquidate these so prices might be really low! The increase in power feels like it comes in at about 3k and up but with no loss in low end power. For a more snappy throttle response; Might I recommend advancing your timing curve by 3-5 degrees when you install these cams.

Cost of coatings adds up. Sure you could rattle can them... Being a professional in painting and corrosion management I know the pitfalls of that. If your going to invest in the higher quality David provides, you might as well invest in keeping it well protected. Maybe its not quite $1200 but its still more than the (inferior) competition who has bulk purchase and production power. I just bought my second set of Throleys so that my wife's pathfinder can have a set.

Yep! Welcome to the world of limited aftermarket support! Experimental Enginiering Has the parts to make 1 or 2 more sets of pathfinder headers. They will not be CARB appoved and EGR must be requested if you want it. They are superior in every way exept they will run out about $1,200 for headders and a Y pipe. OBX 300zx headers fit as well; cheap, no Y-pipe and really, really complete garbage. good for a throw away motor on a budget.

The are a nissan part, talk to your dealer or better yet PM Alko on here and he can get you a good price.

I've got euro cams in my 3.3 and I also bumped the compression ratio a full point. It feels good!

Thorleys are thicker and will live longer. The overall quality of their wormanship is better. Every so often you will find a pacesetter Ypipe that has a major blockage issue where the pipes meet. Its not every pair but it is a sign of poor quality control.

that's just your computer. Mine all play at once just fine but then again that's my computer...

here you go, http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/pts/3608759876.html included the lower intake bowl. It will bolt to an NA and you can plug the extra holes or you could weld on (a very simple to make) adapter plate to the NA lower for the support of the extra holes. Its still missing the intake tube tho so not the greatest deal. IMO unless it comes with the bowl and intake tube its not really worth it because those are the hardest parts to find by themselves. Now if your deleting all your idle controls for an old school throttle stop of a hole in the throttle plate to set your idle then an intake tube becomes very easy to make.

I'm no cory I couldn't make yall suffer for pages and pages like that. Besides, Leo had me pinned, How can I drag it on from there? Oh wait, my uncle is a wizzard he'd figure out how disappear the evidence and let me drag it on longer.

use the gears and belt off the 95 the round tooth belts last 105k vs 60k? for the square

From the factory they are set so precise that they seal watertight without binding at all and they stay that way untouched for the life of the vehicle. Such accuracy is not really necessary so just back it out until the throttle just barely starts to stick and then tighten it 1/2 turn and set the lock nut. Let it snap shut from half throttle a few times to make sure it does not sick when you open it again. That will get you close enough for everything else to work the way it should.

There was allot going on that night, Buying cars, selling cars, engine changes, parts being made in the background you probably don't remember asking a bunch.

that is left and right. L and R are if you are standing on the flywheel side facing forward. Basically like if you are sitting in the car.

Well it all started with this guy ^^^ actually there were 5 of us pathfinder owners there when I was plugging in my 10:1 3.3 but one of them kept saying "are you gonna put the supercharger on it tonight?" The answer was no but he kept asking so we lined everything up, we had some laughs and took some pictures. But that was not the end of it... lol Nice detective work. The supercharger won't go on until I procure a vg33er a/c compressor.

My original thoughts were that that would be all I could get out of it. Then made some projections were based on milling various depths measuring this way http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/704245_406570512749544_654428494_o.jpg and I realized it would be higher But the puddle likes to 'jump' to the caliper and the syringe was sticky so accuracy was slightly limited. 0.050 was going to be 9.7 and 0.060 would have been 9.86 In the end I took off .060" (too much) and measured with a better syringe. The exact number is 9.96:1 which is 0.98 higher than stock 8.98:1 http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/793882_443010419105553_1605447852_o.jpg I'm thinking 0.50" will be about 9.75-9.8

so the 10:1 3.3 went in my truck (my 3.0 died) which runs a different MAF. Redline WOT is 0 (zero) which is lower than her stock 3.0 I used a different gauge but I think zero stays accurate between the two because they sit at zero with then engine off. so the flow restriction is not the throttle body because both trucks run the same throttle body. but my tuck runs an N60 (infiniti M30) MAF which is much larger. So the flow restriction is the MAF But You can't just swap the MAF, or bore out the stock one because it will throw off your AFR ratios.

M62 Came in LOTS of cars but the castings usually vary greatly. The most common links are the twin screw rotors, bearings, gears, bushing drive to the snout and pulley interchange. The castings, snouts, intake ducts mounting to lower manifolds and even the bypass valves vary per application. That would be cool if the cobalt one happened to fit tho.

Throttle stop should be set so the throttle closes but does not bind inside the bore (the butterfly is taller than the bore) This is always fine from the factory and should never be touched. Don't use ohms to set your tps that is the throttle position sensor. You actually want the other connector, for the closed throttle position switch. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ec.pdf page 12 set your meter to beep mode and probe pins 2 & 3 with a .030" shim on the throttle stop. Rotate the TPS until you have a tone when resting on the shim and it should stop if anything thicker is used. This ensures full contact inside the switch when the throttle is closed without the shim. Now now start your engine warm it up and rev it a few times when warm. unplug the harness for you Idle air solenoid and turn off your a/c (the thing you cleaned) set your desired idle (750-900 is fine) and rev 2-3 times it should come back to your setting in 3-4 seconds or less. while the engine is still hot and Before you plug it back in get out your timing light and set your timing to 15 Degrees BTDC Rev it a few times. Your timing will advance but it will return to normal withing a few seconds of idle

I would replace the clear plastic hose SOON, mine collapsed under vacuum. I find I stay in the green best when RPMs are 3200-3500 or higher if necessary but with light throttle application. Summit racing has some nice silicone vacuum hoses that seem to be working out very well in my truck. They bend nicer without pinching and they stretch over nipples easier. Just remember, its 4mm hose for 5mm nipples. These rigs are under powered so I'd say even staying above 10 is good for green.

I believe the AT supercharger has a feedback valve to momentarily bypass the supercharger during shifts. You can read about it in the FSM http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/2002_Xterra/

what I have, the ports on the intake bowl are round and maybe 1.3" There are 3 rows of bolts to the lower intake and the center row is the same pattern and spacing as the NA lowers. Outside rows were added to support boost and belt torque. It that it 3.3 it is massively modified, opening the bowl on an ER does not increase flow, it decreases boost response. (which is near instant with top mount Eaton blowers)

Looking closer, that does not look like what I have.