MY1PATH

Nice work. I considered doing that many times but in the end I went to MPFI. No, not EMP proof but a lead box around the ECU would solve that as long as it wasn't running when the EMP hit.

Lastly, once all assembled and running I found my High CR throttle response was really snappy and I needed to tame it a bit. The Factory Nissan throttle linkages have a ramp to it to flip the throttle faster in the beginning and slower as as it opens wider. I modified this for a constant slow rate from start to finish, smooths out my driving a little bit...

I did the forbidden and Milled .070" off the heads. This is the cheapest way to arrive at a higher CR and it also increases the area of your quench zones. Now Because the heads are moving down closer to the crank it retards the timing because of the slack in the T-blet. A .050" head shave will retard your cams by 1.17 degrees which is nothing to worry about probably runs better that way anyway; My excessive head shave retarded me 1.65 degrees and I find it runs really well at this timing. (using adjustable cam gears I played with different cam timings as well) 0.070" is the most you can take off before you nick the intake valve seat and that's why I tried it. BUT it also leads some intake manifold fitting and sealing problems because the heads sit closer so the manifold catches on the sides of the heads, the studs bind in the manifold and the holes have to be slotted making it ... Long story short 0.070" is too much but I made it work. I was very close to just scraping the heads and starting over. I did a test fit with 0.050" and it works well, CR is more like 9.75:1 but assembly is more trouble free and I really should have left it at .050". To get the best alignment of parts here You should use the 3.0 Lower manifold with the thinner 3.3 lower manifold gaskets. Also, when you shave the heads it puts more slack in the timing belt so the sleeve on the tensioner must be replaced with a sleeve that is 2.5" OD. Then I worked the rest of the heads in the same way as Mr.510 did here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31418-building-a-vg34-and-installing-it-in-my-88-pathy/ and put it all together using his pulley adapter.

Yeah, they make to do with 33's it also brings the RPM's down on the highway.

I think it is absolutely worth it. But worth it is all relative. So let me try to give you some perspective. A stock vg33e is 180 HP (R50 pathfinder, xterra, frontier) A stock vg33er is 210 HP (Supercharged xterra and Supercharged frontier) My VG33+ is also about 210 (NOT supercharged) The differences in my vg33+ vs a stock vg33e include 10:1 compression ratio (more torque and throttle response especially when done with cams), port worked heads (better flow Potential) Increased quench zone (better VE and runs better on leaner fuel) Headers (more HP and Torque) Euro Cams (more HP and Torque from ~2500 RPM UP) and 2.5* Cam timing Retard (shifts the the power upward a little) Although this seems like allot of modifications I would say 80-90% of the all out power gains came from Cams and headers. The rest of the mods mostly define, how it drives between idle and peak. In other words, if you just did euro cams and headers, you would probably make about 200hp but your throttle response, MPG and acceleration characteristics would be different than mine. This build was targeting a 200hp torquey motor that would be a great Daily driver for a family car. And I does exactly that (only it didn't wind up in the family car lol) It drives great, you don't have to downshift to take the mountain passes and it gets about the same or better MPG as a stock motor as long as you don't romp on it. And I can say I put more to the wheels than a stock 3.0 puts to the crank. I know its not a straight answer but Hopefully it helps.

The autos got .694 OD gears. When the TC locks up you can cruise at pretty low RPM. But auto's are generally geared higher because when the TC is unlocked you get allot of RPM slip. The gear ratio change was not really a My bad moment. It works fine for 55 mph and IIRC back in 1987 that was the speed limit most places. Also consider, 150 HP pushing 4000lbs + whatever you have inside it and whatever you may be towing. You may want that extra RPM (unless of course your just taking it to the mall) Me on the other hand, I'm putting out the same power as a Supercharged Frontier and I've been 8,525 lbs on the scales and still got 18 MPG. So I've got the HP and Torque For some taller gears and now I want em...

Bolts right on, my wife's 93 is running one of the newer transmissions. Her tires are smaller than my 89's (correct speedo gear installed in both trucks) and she turns the same RPM on the highway as mine does. But If I get one of them .711 5th gears out of a z31 T I'll be the one turning lower RPM

I'm running a set of those right now. Really gotta push on the boots to get them to click onto the plug but at least you know they have a good grip once they are on. #2 & 4 are stiff boots so its not as hard to get them to click on. So far, they seem pretty good but I only have ~7k miles on them.

Factory plugs for your truck are NGK double platinum. Yes they cost $70~$80 for a set but they last 100k miles. You can buy a set of NGK V-power for ~$30 but they only last 30k miles... guess what, $30 @ 30k X 3 plug changes = $90 @ 90k miles. so in the long run you save some time and $$ if you just use the factory double platinum plugs. Another thing to consider, The double platinum offers greater ignitablity and reliable spark because of is small platinum electrode and small platinum patch under the ground strap. So even near the end of your plugs life it still delivers a strong spark. Yes people will always argue "copper plugs provide greater spark because copper has the lowest electrical resistance" I've seen it on a million forums BUT what the fail to realize is that "copper" plugs have steel electrodes, only the core is copper. And for that matter, Platinum pugs (platinum electrodes) also have copper cores. And platinum is a better conductor than steel. So the time old argument of "copper" vs Platinum or "copper vs Iridium is actually an argument of Steel vs Platinum or Steel vs Iridium.

EDIT: some of the older cars with FS5R30A transmissions even came with 0.711 5th gear(like 1989 300zx turbo). This would be a ~525 rpm drop at 75 MPH... Now that sounds pretty worthwhile for keeping the RPM's down on a 200HP vg33+ pathfinder. that has the torque to drive a tall gear like that down the freeway running 2500 rpm @ 75mph or 2100 rpm @ 65mph... Thank you for you question, the little research that I did to make this EDIT gave me some good ideas.

Yeah, that's normal. These trucks game geared low from the factory. Of course, when there were allot more places with 55 mph speed limits so the gearing worked well for that... The 97+ vg33 transmissions were geared a little higher, swapping to one of those will give you ~240 rpm drop at 70 MPH Also all 2wd transmissions were geared a little higher as well. My goal, one day, is to see if I can just swap the higher 5th for highways use and keep my lower gears low. FS5R30A 87-95 4x4 1st gear 4.061 2nd gear 2.357 3rd gear 1.490 4th gear 1.000 5th gear 0.862 97+ vg33 FS5R30A and all 2wd trucks 1st gear 3.580 2nd gear 2.077 3rd gear 1.360 4th gear 1.000 5th gear 0.811

Passed CA Smog Test with flying colors!

Check this out! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pu5Y2HQ7DM0 What does your truck do with one wheel lifted in 2wd?

If it means enough to you, its worth it. other thoughts, I'm certain the td27 gets better fuel economy than the v6. They probably also burn cleaner.

Been there done that.

Sounds to me like its dragging a gear and a transmission rebuild/ replacement is in order. I know that's not what you want to hear but that's the worst it can be. Hopefully someone with More Faith in the autotragic transmission will come along and tell you more or know about something simpler that could be the cause. AND OR more ways to diagnose it.

5-8 KM/L is roughly 12-19 MPG. That's quite a spread. 1M ~1.6 KM 3.8 L ~1Gal so KML / 1.6 = Miles Per Liter and then MPL x 3.8 = MPG 8 KML / 1.6 = 5 Miles Per Liter and then 5 MPL x 3.8 = 19 MPG 5 KML / 1.6 = 3.125 Miles Per Liter and then 3.125 MPL x 3.8 = 11.875 MPG I have heard the The TD27 Terrano gets over 10 KML or around 24 MPG but it wouldn't surprise me if someone could pull over 27 MPG out of one. There have been plenty of small diesel pickups that get 30-35 MPG.

when I rebuilt my heads I used the camshaft to pull the seal... Best puller ever, won't scratch the shaft, or gouge the head and it pops out clean and un-damaged every time, Not that I would re-use one of those seals anyway...

THERE IS! Follow the link B posted. There is a breakdown of tire size and gear ratio for each size speedo gear on post #6 This should get you close but acutual tires sizes also vary up to an inch from their labled size.

I want to say its the red and orange wires you will be interested in... But I could be wrong. Follow those first and find where they go?

TBI's Had cruise but there was a sensor in the instrument clusters that the Non-cruise models did not have. ALL MPFI's had this sensor because the ECU would use it too. An do believe the round dash units may have used different cruise computers. 4 bangers also used different computers LOTS OF WIRE IN THE FACTORY SYSTEM, from the passenger firewall to the N switch to the pedals and then all they way back to the rear quarter panel for the Computer. I Cross my fingers that your truck is pre-wired and just needs the parts.

The wing keeps the back glass a little cleaner. I don't think it effects MPG. 16 Highway @ 55 seems a bit lacking, I would go through a full list of tune up items and more plugs, check wires, check timing, is you O2 sensor need replaced? Is your MAF sensor clean? Is your throttle body clean? Vacuum leaks... You should be getting 18+ at that speed and lower when the engine goes over 3000RPM What size tire are you running and do you have the correct speedo gear for that size?

Ok Chris, good luck doing something totally unnecessary. I'm gonna take my smooth running pathy with a higher than stock idle somewhere else.

Things to check for: Ignition timing too retarded Worn spark plugs/ misfire Leaking EGR valve Accessory load (binding pulleys, alty etc) Corroded IACV harness or bad wire/ connector Clogged IACV, or otherwise sticking... there is a little magnetic piston that slides back and forth inside there. If it gets corroded it can stick. Altitude... both my trucks idle about 100 rpm higher at sea level and its only 2,500FT here.

WA has lots of pretty and green as well, They smog test, on rollers with a sniffer in many areas but I do not think they are quite as strict. I don't like mass polluters, I don't like diesel smoke tunes but I don't like insane smog regs either. I think If a car can pass tailpipe it should be good to go! I also think Smog should be weighted against the VOLUME of gas produced. Meaning a 1.2L with a 1.5" tail pipe should be allowed to run a little dirty because it can barely smoke out a garage but a 5.7L should be squeaky clean because if it was running bad you could choke everyone around you with the stomp of a foot. I understand that testing equipment to measure the volume of gas coming out of a pipe is a little more expensive but it would also give a more accurate view on what we are doing to our environment. But then again most of this $#!t is about money anyway the environment has just become an excuse.