MY1PATH

Yeah, my personal favorite is the Dorman 10.9 Flange Head Bolts. If I could afford it I would use those on everything. The ones pictured are on my vg33 headers. Grade 10.9 Flange Head. Dorman 459-YXX Y= 2 for M6 x 1.00 Y= 4 for M8 x 1.25 Y= 5 for M10x1.25 XX= Length, 20-40 in 5mm increments XX= Length, 50-70 in 10mm increments

There was a time when I thought Rock Auto had great customer service but I think those days are gone. This is not my first run in but felt this one was worth documenting... According to rockauto the reason 1 out of 4 of these links showed up wrong is MY FAULT because no other customers have complained about it. Watch the video if you don't feel like reading the rest... This issue has been "resolved" but I will get to that at the end... I ordered 4 stabilizer links (also known as sway bar links) MOOG PN K80435 for both of my pathfinders from ROCKAUTO and I received 3 good ones and one that didn't fit. The one that didn't fit came with bushings that were too tall to allow installation on any vehicle. On the good ones you can see how all the bushings, washers and nut fit on the the link. On the bad one you can see how I cannot get the last washer, let-alone the nut, on there. So I sent it back With a picture showing the problem and they sent me another bad one. I'm aware I could CUT or MODIFY these parts to fit but that is not the point. They should install unmodified just like the other two I installed. I contacted them again and this time they wanted me to return the entire order which makes no sense... what do the other parts in my order(which were already installed) have to do with this mistake? I wrote them again to clear things up and they want me to pay shipping. For a part listed as fitting my vehicle but it did not. They told me it should work because nobody else has complained about the part and therefore the mistake is mine. (But My other 3 were correct, so maybe they got the correct ones too) I re-stated that the bushings were too tall and that it's like trying to put a square peg in a round hole. The fact is it will not fit ANY vehicle unless you modify it to get that nut on. I how have a "One Time Exception" to return my part and the only reason given that it should fit is because "nobody else has complained about the part." So resolved yes, I get my money back without having to pay for someone else's mistakes. But I'm still unhappy because I had to go through, about a dozen emails, they fail to recognize there is a problem and that people are probably being treated with this ignorance on a regular basis. Lastly I am going to send a courtesy note to MOOG about their product bushing change (they might be totally unaware and willing to change) since rockauto will probably not and hopefully this will fix things for future customers of this product.

You should be able to just drop the Y pipe and leave the headers in place. No?

For information sake: I just did some FSM searching. The pedal assist ratio of WD21 boosters goes from 5x to 8x. (8x being the newer stronger model, Hard to find in the fsm) WD21 boosters were 9" primary and 8" secondary dual diaphragm but the late 2002 Xterra is a 9" and 9" dual diaphragm... I am personally going to do some more research into this and may even try it if it fits.

one switch runs off the FWD fork and the other switch runs off the Hi-Lo Fork. Both switches must be closed to turn the light on this makes the light turn off when the t-case is neutral (between hi and lo) FWD fork: -FWD engaged closed -FWD disengaged open Hi-Lo fork: -Hi closed -N open -Lo closed

Also, most dual diaphragms are smaller diameter but obviously thicker. Keeping it Nissan, I don't know what a Z32 booster looks like but I believe they were dual diaphragm... The TT also had a clutch booster to keep the left foot light when running a heavy clutch.

15/16 to 1990 1" after 1990 both my trucks are running the 1" but my 89 does not stop as quick so (all other things being equal) I suspect its running a weaker booster than my 93.

What about upgrading boosters? Is there a larger booster out there that might fit? If you were running all stock components This would improve your powered assist and thus stopping power without having to match MC size to caliper volume and either going too big MC (hard pedal weak brakes) or too small MC (soft pedal too long stroke before brakes engage)

Do you have footwell lights?

Have you tried RUBBER bushings. They flex more without splitting. The Moog Blue are poly.

FYI, most vehicles run a different ECU and Tune for AT and MT. On some models some wires need to be spiced or bridged for the vehicle to run. Dealing with this first hand. (AT ECU in my MT) almost no effort was given in tuning the car below 2,000 RPM. Why? Well an AT can't use any of its power below the the Torque Converter stall point so it gets tuned for "clean air" How bad does this hurt your low RPM driving? Hard to say, every model is different. This shouldn't be a road block but its something to think about.

yes, the shocks mount to the FRAME not the body.

The modified LSD in in a 5 spd MT yes, just idle and let out the clutch. It locks up even harder when I goose it. The unmodified was in an automatic so I had to give it some gas to get the driveline moving. Its probably somewhere in the 300 Lb ball park. I will have to create a long arm jig I can bolt in place of the wheel and put a big torque wrench on it to find out my exact breakaway. My concern is that I will move the vehicle long before it slips even if I try to block the tires.

I wanted more...I was wheeling a lot back then* Stock does pretty well with both tires having contact and the e-brake trick helps balance the torque if one tire has limited contact. But once one tire is completely floating in the air and your front tires are trying to move over some rocks it does not do much anymore. Have you seen my video? I've had 3 pathfinders and only one of them can drive of a jackstand in 2wd. Look at the painted stripe in the video of the last pathfinder there is Zero slippage when it comes off the jack. It requires pavement actually forcing the inside wheel to slow down for my "LSD" to actually "S" the "D" *now I seem to enjoy the creature comforts of my wife's stock 4dr

Honestly I didn't measure all of them. They all appeared to be in good shape and same thickness (to the casual eye) and that's as far as I went. I wasn't going for repeatability in other pathfinders I was just going by trial and error until I achieved the right amount of lock up.

Just because it has the same transmission part code does not mean it has the same bell housing bolt pattern. And that is why I said it must come from a VG series motor. If you want to try and bell swap one you can but there is no guarantee that will work either...

No, it was taller than stock. I have one extra disc on each side but two on each side are machined down by .015" (.030" total) Assuming 1.5mm disc (.059") .059-.030= .029 So my stack height is .029 taller per side. Adding a .030" shim (full hard Steel) to each side may have a similar lockup as mine and that's probably what I would do next time since I no longer have access to a Blanchard grinder with a magnetic hold down. (IMHO that's the only proper way to take such a small amount evenly off an entire hardened clutch disc)

If the trans has more than 75k on it and no history of fluid change its not a bad idea to drop the valve body to clean it and service it (seals, HD Spring kit optional) BEFORE you install it. Neglected transmissions can have a tendency of depositing all the leftover gunk in the wrong place (valve body) after new fluid is put in because the detergent in the new fluid sweeps it out of all the other areas until it finds a choke point (valve body). A flush will not clear this because the valve body not being actuated during the flush. Yes the later one is an HD model externally its the same but internally has an upgraded valve body and beefed up clutches. It is posted here (search) the exact upgrades nissan made to create the HD model MUST BE A RWD VG3X transmission!

Perhaps that's why I never got accepted to the R32 GTR pages Yeah a few years back I tried and Microsoft would not help me. I was hoping something new was learned (and it was but not in the direction of a fix) I guess I'll look into another email. any suggestions besides Gmail? ISP is a no for me, I move too much.

Google found this... http://www.thelongranger.com.au/pathfinderlongrangefueltank.html oops, that's R50 and its only 95L/25gal

I looked into it and didn't like it. The HB bed sits 1" higher off the frame and is straight across (actually the bottom of the bed is even higher). It also uses a rod for the parking brake attached to a pull handle under the dash. The PF floor pan with seats and drop downs for the parking brake cables (and the cables themselves) are all obstacles. From a 4x4 standpoint just swapping in an HB tank would hang way too low. That being said, once upon a time there were extended range pathfinder tanks. They went in the same place but had square corners and tighter radiuses to squeeze an extra few gallons out of the same space. They may have been an inch or so taller too and were in the 30 gallon range IIRC. Perhaps you can buy or have made a big square cornered tank like that... One day I might make my own like that too...

Is there any fix for existing members with hotmail. I ONLY get emails when I am quoted by somebody. Everything else (PM's, Forum posts etc) I do not receive and I have checked all my settings here and on my email MANY times. Does this apply to outlook.com too?

I like that Front Bumper design but the rear one could use a little more meat on it...

My first try with this mod I added one disc to each side and it was basically a spool. My third try sill has one extra disc but the outside two have .015" machined off them (-.030 total) so that the the surface facing the side gear and the surface facing the spring stack are smooth. It's streetable but locks up under torque because the spider gears push outward against the side gears just enough to make it a spool when you punch it. It is also like a locker on snow and ice which can lead to fish tailing if you are not careful.

All the switches (open close) on hood doors, hatch and glass are tied to the alarm system. The "Broken hardware or sensor bracket inside the door that triggers the system when closed." is a magnetic switch that clips to the inside of the door lock and is triggered when the key is turned. If its clip is broken it can sometimes trigger from bumps or doors being closed.