MY1PATH

Pull the timing cover. If the belt and gears have ROUND TEETH you have a 105K belt. If the belt and gears have SQUARE TEETH you have a 60K belt. You can pull the 3 round tooth from any 93+ 3.0 and install them on an older motor at the time of belt change if you like.

NOT for the ECU. The ECU only operates the engine and forwards RPM & TPS information to the Cruise and AT computers. Yes it is for the alarm system. My 94 had a hood switch that would loose its grounding when the temperature changed thus setting off the alarm randomly after the engine cooled down. Took me a while to track it down but my solution was to strip the wire and screw it to the firewall.

FYI this style GMC 16x7 is only 19lbs or 18.5 once you bore it to fit a pathfinder. This is about as light as some but not all 15" alloy wheels. But More importantly is the tire weight or location of mass. The farther from center the weight is located the more it effects the vehicles acceleration and braking. So theoretically a 15lb rim with 30lb tire would be slower than a 30lb rim with a 15 lb tire.

Check your heights diagonally front to rear. (front should be 0-1" lower) and then compare side to side. You may just have a torsion bar cranked too high causing it to shift too much weight to the opposite corner.

If your want a smoother ride on the trail with more flex front and rear go back to stock T-bars and buy some 3" or 4" Jeep Cherokee (XJ, not grand) lift springs from rough country.

Put it in the glove box if you are concerned with raising your water line.

I'm going though the last of my collection of K&N PS series filters. They have a 10 micron rating but I have just noticed the second half of all my vg33 filters are a little different.... round instead of flat o-ring and a big spring tower visible inside the filter for the bypass (very different) Google tells me they moved their production to china or something and these changes are the new outsourced design. It will be interesting to see what I find when I cut one open but I may be switching... Mobil 1, Bosh and K&N were all made by champion labs and were all good filters of similar quality. I will have to do some research to find out what still holds true and what doesn't... My remaining 3.0 filters (also K&N) have not changed.

Today 31x10.5 ONLY comes as an "LT" tire meaning C, D or E rating. Its a heavier tire for carrying heavier loads... typically 40-45 lbs of rubber. Anything else 30" or taller (metric included) will probably be the same story on a 15" rim A 265/70r16 would compare pretty closely in overall height and width but can be found without the heavy load ratings and is typically 38-44 lbs. Some are lighter some are heavier. ESP offroad tires A 245.75r16 would compare in height but is narrower for less rolling resistance and now you are getting down to the 35 lb range... again trail tires may be heavier... Less weight = better acceleration, better braking and better MPG POTENTIAL and better suspension response. Loosing the LT rating typically means a quieter and more comfortable ride assuming you maintain a 70 or 75+ aspect ratio Narrower will offer MPG gains, improved wet traction and improve hydroplaning resistance. Starting to sound like a win? Aftermarket 16" rims are always heavier than OEM 15's unless you spend some really big bucks and even then it may still be a wash. So there goes your weight savings. Now a lot of OEM 16x7 wheels are fairly light so if you score some of those you my wind up tipping the scales a little. (looking for ~21 lbs) Ultimately 16" gives you a lot more tire choices and may cost less in the long run. The option to go narrower and taller is easier than with the range of now very heavy 15" sizes so there is that plus too. I personally want to switch our family 4-door to a tall skinny 16" it doesn't off road but it does rack up a lot of highway miles on family trips.

I've got both my pathfinders running on Delo 10w30. Its a diesel oil with zinc anti-wear additives, more detergents and a higher shear stability than conventional passenger car motor oils. My trucks stay quiet on cold starts with an oil change interval of 5000 miles.

Sta-Lube brand is an affordable GL-4 solution that I have found locally in Napa and Car quest stores.

Yes on the steering stoppers. I broke the plastic caps off on mine, screwed them all the way in turned the wheel until the steering gear maxed out and then backed them out until they strike just before the steering gear maxes out. You can back them out a little more than that if you don't wan't shiny rub spots on your frame. (you don't want rub if you live in high salt areas) I keep the rub spot and the contact points of the stoppers greased. Take it to a machine shop and ask them to bore it out to 100mm it will be right up to the edge of the pockets for the lug nuts but all of the load is through the clamping force of the nuts on these trucks so it will be ok. Setup should take 20 min for the first wheel and 5 min per wheel to bore each one after that. (AKA if they charge you more than an hour labor you are being taken...) What brand/model wheels are those? (are they 15x8?) and would you mind putting them on a bathroom scale before you get tires mounted?

The r50 clutch/covers are a direct fit if you want a firmer pedal next time. The na xterra ones even more so but you might get a dead leg on all day wheeling trips depending on the terrain.

Good job man, you made it. BTW, what brand did you go with. I am partial to Exedy (OEM) brand clutches. I'm running an R50 clutch & pressure plate in my WD it has more clamping force and is a little bit more grabby. The pedal feel is a little firmer too due to the higher clamping force...

Those are fine the way they are. as long as you don't have 2 wires from the chassis harness going to one switch it will work the way its supposed to. I just turns on the dummy light for 4x4. One wire to each switch and one wire connecting the two.

Umm, B... you might have to fix yourself ^ 4x lol I was also amused by the bread/bagel. I have always used a piece of round stock machined to a very close tolerance to the Pilot. (.001-.003 clearance) and thick grease. But I guess it comes down to using whats available to you and making the best of it and you did!

Adjust your steering stoppers, I can pull a FULL-U on 15x8's in 2 way street. That's tighter than any car I've driven...

You'll be alright, Mr 510 used to build L motors with Ultra Copper. (510 engines and how he got his name)

For an area that you don't want to revisit for 100K miles I would go with Toyota FIPG, order online or Permatex Ultra Copper, buy local (both are High quality RTV choices) I know I said this, but make sure its clean and oil free when you apply it. This includes fingerprint oils. both sides of the gasket and on the housing face and on the bolt threads.

No, you leave the "over fill" it in there. the original fill level did not fully submerge the 5th gear bearing among other things. The fill hole on the transmission was located 1" too low by mistake from the factory. I am partial to Redline MT90, and I usually get it directly from redline in gallon containers. They are really quick about shipping if you live on the west coast. It is formulated specifically for Nissan transmissions. I've run this fluid in sub zero temperatures in WA state and 115 weather here in SoCal and I change it every 5 years. If you are trying to save some coin look for STA-LUBE 75w90 or 80w90 GL-4 usually have it on the shelf. I think Its probably your best bet for a local option. Most brands stocked in other auto stores are only GL-5, stay away from GL-5 it is not compatible with the Nissan Synchronizers.

You can with the RMS housing out and I hope it lasts for you. Make sure you get the old seal (or curved portion) out completely and clean/dry thoroughly before sealing a new curved arch in there with FIPG.

My buddy got back to me. These are his words on the gasket:

leave the dust shield alone, it will be fine as is. RTV is optional but it doesn't hold back any fluids.

Sorry, I think I missed that the oil pan was actually leaking. There are 2 styles of oil pan seals let me double check with my friend on which style yields the better result. There is a 1-piece that goes all the way around and there is a 4-piece that has 2 sides and 2 curves.

The TX10A transfer case is acceptable to use with Gear oil or ATF. Based on each fluids characteristics my opioion is to run them accordingly: ATF (DEX III) is cheaper and sold everywhere, but offers very little in the way of shock loading. Good for daily drivers and highway use while still being an offload vehicle. Gear oil (GL4) limited quantities and brands found in auto stores. (I prefer to order Redline MT90 online by the gallon for my transmissions). Greater film thickness and shock loading. Good for the dedicated wheeler or anyone who wants the added protection. possibly slight reduction in MPG due to thicker viscosity in Conventional GL4 oils, even less with SYN GL4 oils like MT90. The Housing peels right out once the bolts are removed but the semicircle seal under the housing has a tendency to leak after the housing has been re-installed and the best way to re-seal it is to pull the pan and do a full seal job with the housing in place.

The pan has to come off to get sealed. The book may referee removing the RMS housing to remove the RMS SEAL... THIS IS WRONG, removing and re-installing the housing almost always leads to a future pan leak. Leave the housing in place and use a seal puller. I did not learn this one from personal experience but rather from a friend who has built hundreds of Nissan engines. I took his advice rather than learning the hard way because oil pans are PITA on a 4x4...