MY1PATH

if 3 wheels are freely spinning (both rear 1 front) the last wheel is using ~0% of the engine torque because its all going to the three spinning wheels. Since the rear is locked no other scenario is possible because the rears spin together. If all 4 wheels had equal traction it would be ~25% to each wheel.

Driving without spark on one cyl? Did you unplug that injector too? You are going to wash your CYL walls with fuel, potentially wear out your Ring to Bore seal and loose compression. It can be done short term (like to get home) but I would not daily drive it like that. Also change your oil once you get it fixed to get all the fuel out of the oil.

Its in my sig... If your header bolts are broke of then you are losing power through your exhaust leaks. Pull the manifolds, extract the broken studs, Buy some 300zx turbo studs and install headers.

But still. Failure to admit a mistake. It must be YOUR FAULT because nobody else has bothered to complain about it. That's just wrong thinking. Or maybe everyone else did you what you did. Or maybe your the 10th person they've said that too because they think its easier than doing the right thing

yep, I'd even swap in the one you buy to make sure it's good runs and keep your known good one clean and dry for a spare. I ended up turning my spare into a NIStune ECU. I just wish I had more time to play with it... This was not needed by any means for my lightly modified 3.3 but its a toy and I will be needing in the future...

To get this "some dreamy things like 600+ hp" say goodbye to this "I have good low end torque and power" I'm putting over 170/190 HP/TQ to the wheels which is more than the stock motor has at the crank and its all very derivable bottom to top. My advise to you for a "quick" wake up good tune up flush the injectors Headers; any kind will do for street level performance but I'm partial to Thorley and Experimental Engineering Full 2.25 or 2.5" exhaust: 3.0's loose some scavenging (bottom end with 2.5 but its not that bad) Cams1: Euro Spec cams (oe for uk) used to be $100 a stick. Email Rob Lacey for current availability and pricing. Good Idle same bottom end but more mid-range Cams: JWT S1 Pricey but GOOD mid and top end. 3.3's love these cams but 3.0's loose a little bottom end... Do all the above to a 3.3 and you will be keeping up with supercharged xterra's but all of this has already been covered in great depth if you just look for it.

4x4 or 2wd it does not matter. The last 4 are like a serial number you won't find any two that match the last 4

You can try to find the same year ECU just to be on the safe side. I don't recall the change over point but there was a difference of 02 sensors over the years. One being Titania (small thread) and the other being Zirconium (large thread), they output different signals and there is potential for damage if they are mixed up. There may have been other small changes like tach signal outputs (ECU based vs coil based) and so on... Also, If you have a Federal Emissions ECU installing a CA ECU will get you an EGR code on your first drive if you do not have an EGR temp sensor installed. However CA Model vehicles run just fine on Federal ECU's

Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle. Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle. Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle. Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle. An ECU does not care if it is a 3.0 or a 3.3 or even a VG3x It only matters that the correct electrical components (which you already have) are connected to it. STOP STOP STOP!!! If you don't know don't say it. Something like this someone will read the wrong post and buy parts they don't need. An engine only needs Air, Fuel and Spark to the right cylinders at the right time. For the most part It does not matter what ecu delivers it as long as that ECU has all the correct parts to match that ECU. If you go trying to swap to a 3.3 ECU you are opening a large and unnecessary can of worms for ZERO performance gains. An MT ECU will not work with an Auto Transmission is because the AT ECU computer sends throttle position information to the Transmission Shift Computer to tell it when to shift. The transmission won't care if its a 3.0 or 3.3 either. Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle. Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle.

Once upon a time I bought some starter motor brushes. They were like $1. They were wrong. 1mm too wide and 2mm too long to load. I sanded them to fit did some research and emailed RockAuto the correct part number for that vehicle. I got an apologetic phone call the SAME DAY and a full refund (wow $1) even though I did not ask for one. Over the last 10? years I have had about a 50/50 mix of good customer service and bad. The bad just wastes hours of my time, makes me mad and I want all the clueless idiots involved to GO TO HELL!!! How do you mean? One of the ones I changed was so beat up the rear nut just spun in place so I cut it off! Done deal.

Yeah, my personal favorite is the Dorman 10.9 Flange Head Bolts. If I could afford it I would use those on everything. The ones pictured are on my vg33 headers. Grade 10.9 Flange Head. Dorman 459-YXX Y= 2 for M6 x 1.00 Y= 4 for M8 x 1.25 Y= 5 for M10x1.25 XX= Length, 20-40 in 5mm increments XX= Length, 50-70 in 10mm increments

There was a time when I thought Rock Auto had great customer service but I think those days are gone. This is not my first run in but felt this one was worth documenting... According to rockauto the reason 1 out of 4 of these links showed up wrong is MY FAULT because no other customers have complained about it. Watch the video if you don't feel like reading the rest... This issue has been "resolved" but I will get to that at the end... I ordered 4 stabilizer links (also known as sway bar links) MOOG PN K80435 for both of my pathfinders from ROCKAUTO and I received 3 good ones and one that didn't fit. The one that didn't fit came with bushings that were too tall to allow installation on any vehicle. On the good ones you can see how all the bushings, washers and nut fit on the the link. On the bad one you can see how I cannot get the last washer, let-alone the nut, on there. So I sent it back With a picture showing the problem and they sent me another bad one. I'm aware I could CUT or MODIFY these parts to fit but that is not the point. They should install unmodified just like the other two I installed. I contacted them again and this time they wanted me to return the entire order which makes no sense... what do the other parts in my order(which were already installed) have to do with this mistake? I wrote them again to clear things up and they want me to pay shipping. For a part listed as fitting my vehicle but it did not. They told me it should work because nobody else has complained about the part and therefore the mistake is mine. (But My other 3 were correct, so maybe they got the correct ones too) I re-stated that the bushings were too tall and that it's like trying to put a square peg in a round hole. The fact is it will not fit ANY vehicle unless you modify it to get that nut on. I how have a "One Time Exception" to return my part and the only reason given that it should fit is because "nobody else has complained about the part." So resolved yes, I get my money back without having to pay for someone else's mistakes. But I'm still unhappy because I had to go through, about a dozen emails, they fail to recognize there is a problem and that people are probably being treated with this ignorance on a regular basis. Lastly I am going to send a courtesy note to MOOG about their product bushing change (they might be totally unaware and willing to change) since rockauto will probably not and hopefully this will fix things for future customers of this product.

You should be able to just drop the Y pipe and leave the headers in place. No?

For information sake: I just did some FSM searching. The pedal assist ratio of WD21 boosters goes from 5x to 8x. (8x being the newer stronger model, Hard to find in the fsm) WD21 boosters were 9" primary and 8" secondary dual diaphragm but the late 2002 Xterra is a 9" and 9" dual diaphragm... I am personally going to do some more research into this and may even try it if it fits.

one switch runs off the FWD fork and the other switch runs off the Hi-Lo Fork. Both switches must be closed to turn the light on this makes the light turn off when the t-case is neutral (between hi and lo) FWD fork: -FWD engaged closed -FWD disengaged open Hi-Lo fork: -Hi closed -N open -Lo closed

Also, most dual diaphragms are smaller diameter but obviously thicker. Keeping it Nissan, I don't know what a Z32 booster looks like but I believe they were dual diaphragm... The TT also had a clutch booster to keep the left foot light when running a heavy clutch.

15/16 to 1990 1" after 1990 both my trucks are running the 1" but my 89 does not stop as quick so (all other things being equal) I suspect its running a weaker booster than my 93.

What about upgrading boosters? Is there a larger booster out there that might fit? If you were running all stock components This would improve your powered assist and thus stopping power without having to match MC size to caliper volume and either going too big MC (hard pedal weak brakes) or too small MC (soft pedal too long stroke before brakes engage)

Do you have footwell lights?

Have you tried RUBBER bushings. They flex more without splitting. The Moog Blue are poly.

FYI, most vehicles run a different ECU and Tune for AT and MT. On some models some wires need to be spiced or bridged for the vehicle to run. Dealing with this first hand. (AT ECU in my MT) almost no effort was given in tuning the car below 2,000 RPM. Why? Well an AT can't use any of its power below the the Torque Converter stall point so it gets tuned for "clean air" How bad does this hurt your low RPM driving? Hard to say, every model is different. This shouldn't be a road block but its something to think about.

yes, the shocks mount to the FRAME not the body.

The modified LSD in in a 5 spd MT yes, just idle and let out the clutch. It locks up even harder when I goose it. The unmodified was in an automatic so I had to give it some gas to get the driveline moving. Its probably somewhere in the 300 Lb ball park. I will have to create a long arm jig I can bolt in place of the wheel and put a big torque wrench on it to find out my exact breakaway. My concern is that I will move the vehicle long before it slips even if I try to block the tires.

I wanted more...I was wheeling a lot back then* Stock does pretty well with both tires having contact and the e-brake trick helps balance the torque if one tire has limited contact. But once one tire is completely floating in the air and your front tires are trying to move over some rocks it does not do much anymore. Have you seen my video? I've had 3 pathfinders and only one of them can drive of a jackstand in 2wd. Look at the painted stripe in the video of the last pathfinder there is Zero slippage when it comes off the jack. It requires pavement actually forcing the inside wheel to slow down for my "LSD" to actually "S" the "D" *now I seem to enjoy the creature comforts of my wife's stock 4dr

Honestly I didn't measure all of them. They all appeared to be in good shape and same thickness (to the casual eye) and that's as far as I went. I wasn't going for repeatability in other pathfinders I was just going by trial and error until I achieved the right amount of lock up.