MY1PATH

It screws into the speed o gear at the T-case. It only needs to be hand tight but there are flats on the nut to break it loose with a wrench. It follows the frame rail forward and crosses over the bell housing, there are folded over metal tabs that go through the bell housing bolts that hold it in place and keep it from falling on the exhaust. The top end bolts to the firewall with two (10 mm hex cap?) screws.

my BRAND NEW vg33 (zero miles) short block came in a box that said Ford on it... But that's cause The Nissan Quest is a Ford Villager.

I had the wife's '93 headlight go out on us during a road trip last year. The bulb was good, the fuse was good the power just wasn't there. I pulled the switch out and popped the translucent white plastic cover off (you'll see all the copper leads running under it. Using some sand paper(I recommend 320-400 grit but didn't have any on the road) folded in half so both sides are rough I slid it under each lead pinched it down gently with my finger and pulled the sandpaper out. I did this a few times for each lead. I then carefully inspected the leads in each switch position to see if they were making good contact. (when they get dirty they heat up more under use and can bend away from the contact.) Using a small screwdriver as a fulcrum point I carefully bent one warped lead back down and left the others alone. Her lights have been great ever since. Still have not gotten around to putting relays on hers.

Not a whole lot. WD22 parts on the other hand... my buddy and I sat down one day and just looked at/measured parts between his Xterra and my Pathfinder. Most parts are really close if not the same... IIRC Everything below the body (except the leafs, parking brake and the cam-blot UCA's) are nearly an identical design...

BUMP

While many people refer to the QX as a car (because it is ) I was actually asking about the IS 350 F sport.

Pretty car. 2wd or AWD?

I recently had the opposite, my clutch would not let go... I think something sticking out was making it stick...

I had a mini catch can on top of my valve cover for my TBI vg30i. It was designed so that it drained back into the engine every time the engine was stopped. The engine had worn rings and and lots of blow-by so the filter element inside the can was always wet. The EGR is right next to the throttle body and that may be a factor. Make sure your EGR valve is not leaking, your tune, timing and injectors are good/clean and this can help reduce the amount of soot that comes from the EGR and mixes with the crank case vapors. Some staining inside of the throttle body is normal and acceptable so long as the throttle shaft turns freely and none of the vacuum ports get plugged up. "several times over the span of time that I have owned the truck " is this years? 100,000 miles? How often? Lots of cold driving will increase crankcase vapors. So will light weight or over used oil. On a side note for oil, I have switched all my vehicles over to Chevron Delo 10w30 (diesel oil). Since then all sounds of valve/lifter noise has ended and oil consumption has reduced or possibly gone away.

Welcome! And thank you for for combating against the stereo type. This ones for you.

Its possible,FLAT roads no stops and constant 50-65 mph speeds (no faster) will make any pathfinder look much better on the gas bill. But don't let tire size and having the wrong speedo gear fool you. Bump your mileage (not speed) against a GPS on long drives. I made the same 1,000 mile road trip twice last month with the wife's stock pathy. Weather and gas stations were the same both times. The difference between 78 mph most the way and 70 mph most the way was on average 1.5 MPG (But our best tank was only 19.8 MPG...)

Common mistake, if you don't have any "dead pedal" at the top of your stroke extra fluid cannot return to the reservoir and eventually you experience what just happened. Once you correct the pedal adjustmen you can easily return the extra fluid to the reservoir by grabbing the end of the fork and pulling it towards the slave.

You'd be surprised, a few first gen xterra (wd22) parts swap too

Yeah I personally went down that road myself. Only it wasn't spark, it was an injector that would't close(much worse than your situation). 50 miles I had to drive like that before it was parked. It flooded the oil pan with fuel. Even though it was drained and flushed thoroughly the damage was already done... the engine chewed through its bearings and was done a year later. https://youtu.be/Dr5LOc7XCWc

1" Body Lift: I reached all my bolts from the bottom before using the jack... ... I imagine its even easier with a 2" or 3"

if 3 wheels are freely spinning (both rear 1 front) the last wheel is using ~0% of the engine torque because its all going to the three spinning wheels. Since the rear is locked no other scenario is possible because the rears spin together. If all 4 wheels had equal traction it would be ~25% to each wheel.

Driving without spark on one cyl? Did you unplug that injector too? You are going to wash your CYL walls with fuel, potentially wear out your Ring to Bore seal and loose compression. It can be done short term (like to get home) but I would not daily drive it like that. Also change your oil once you get it fixed to get all the fuel out of the oil.

Its in my sig... If your header bolts are broke of then you are losing power through your exhaust leaks. Pull the manifolds, extract the broken studs, Buy some 300zx turbo studs and install headers.

But still. Failure to admit a mistake. It must be YOUR FAULT because nobody else has bothered to complain about it. That's just wrong thinking. Or maybe everyone else did you what you did. Or maybe your the 10th person they've said that too because they think its easier than doing the right thing

yep, I'd even swap in the one you buy to make sure it's good runs and keep your known good one clean and dry for a spare. I ended up turning my spare into a NIStune ECU. I just wish I had more time to play with it... This was not needed by any means for my lightly modified 3.3 but its a toy and I will be needing in the future...

To get this "some dreamy things like 600+ hp" say goodbye to this "I have good low end torque and power" I'm putting over 170/190 HP/TQ to the wheels which is more than the stock motor has at the crank and its all very derivable bottom to top. My advise to you for a "quick" wake up good tune up flush the injectors Headers; any kind will do for street level performance but I'm partial to Thorley and Experimental Engineering Full 2.25 or 2.5" exhaust: 3.0's loose some scavenging (bottom end with 2.5 but its not that bad) Cams1: Euro Spec cams (oe for uk) used to be $100 a stick. Email Rob Lacey for current availability and pricing. Good Idle same bottom end but more mid-range Cams: JWT S1 Pricey but GOOD mid and top end. 3.3's love these cams but 3.0's loose a little bottom end... Do all the above to a 3.3 and you will be keeping up with supercharged xterra's but all of this has already been covered in great depth if you just look for it.

4x4 or 2wd it does not matter. The last 4 are like a serial number you won't find any two that match the last 4

You can try to find the same year ECU just to be on the safe side. I don't recall the change over point but there was a difference of 02 sensors over the years. One being Titania (small thread) and the other being Zirconium (large thread), they output different signals and there is potential for damage if they are mixed up. There may have been other small changes like tach signal outputs (ECU based vs coil based) and so on... Also, If you have a Federal Emissions ECU installing a CA ECU will get you an EGR code on your first drive if you do not have an EGR temp sensor installed. However CA Model vehicles run just fine on Federal ECU's

Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle. Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle. Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle. Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle. An ECU does not care if it is a 3.0 or a 3.3 or even a VG3x It only matters that the correct electrical components (which you already have) are connected to it. STOP STOP STOP!!! If you don't know don't say it. Something like this someone will read the wrong post and buy parts they don't need. An engine only needs Air, Fuel and Spark to the right cylinders at the right time. For the most part It does not matter what ecu delivers it as long as that ECU has all the correct parts to match that ECU. If you go trying to swap to a 3.3 ECU you are opening a large and unnecessary can of worms for ZERO performance gains. An MT ECU will not work with an Auto Transmission is because the AT ECU computer sends throttle position information to the Transmission Shift Computer to tell it when to shift. The transmission won't care if its a 3.0 or 3.3 either. Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle. Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle.

Once upon a time I bought some starter motor brushes. They were like $1. They were wrong. 1mm too wide and 2mm too long to load. I sanded them to fit did some research and emailed RockAuto the correct part number for that vehicle. I got an apologetic phone call the SAME DAY and a full refund (wow $1) even though I did not ask for one. Over the last 10? years I have had about a 50/50 mix of good customer service and bad. The bad just wastes hours of my time, makes me mad and I want all the clueless idiots involved to GO TO HELL!!! How do you mean? One of the ones I changed was so beat up the rear nut just spun in place so I cut it off! Done deal.