MY1PATH

My shaft is hitting the crosmember at full drop. But It is still well within its range of motion, it just needs clearance. Full drop is a long way down on my rig; extended shocks 6" longer brake line and flipped axles to keep the e-brake cables from pulling. Now just stitting on the road its about 3.5" lift. You'll be just fine.

yes, the insufficient lubrication heats up the 5th gear bearing and syncros. In mine the 5th bearing was shot and fragments from the syncros migrated into 3rd and 1st gear creating noise and eventually taking out 3rd gear. It made it 180k without the TSB and the new one another 40k before I learned about the TSB.

inside your cluster, you should find an analog voltage regulator (I think its all pre 89's) it will look like to flat blades with a coil of wire arround one and a tiny screw that appears to push them apart. you will have to be careful when you open the cluster as 20 year plastic is brittle (esp the clear plastic) once you get to the regulator plug the unit back in and turn the screw untill the guage is more accurate. your othe guages (water, oil and fuel) will likely move as well. Tach and spedo are un-effected by this.

you can do 1" up front with minimal stock IFS issues. For loading I think the OME springs are better (they do provide some lift) because their intened use is increased load while maintianing smooth ride. Are your stock springs sagged? Moog makes a fine set of progressive springs for stock replacement. Much more comfortable but still load up just fine. Just don't replace stock with new stock.

I have Nissan Oem's $25 @ the JY but $400 at the dealer. I really like them. For a casual wheeler either one will do. More agressive, I'd lean towards warn.\ If you rock crawl you can order 'breakable' internals for the warn that replace easily and fail before other, more expensive, components break.

Did you see the Service Bulletin on the manual tranny? Have you checked your motor mounts and tranny mount?

Block it off and forget about it.

The stock turn signals fit between the pipes perfectly and would be there except they are too busted to mount. A cheap JY pair may find their way in there sooner or later. Each bolt on the pulley is 60 degrees apart so your 76 degrees advanced is really 16.

well I didn't do this today but last weekend I forgot all about this thread. Here Is my 1-day quick and dirty front bumper to replace the wasted stocker. I spent no more than $36 on it. All I paid for was welding supplies, grinding supplies and paint. Remember the The metal I drug outta the woods? Made good use of that bend too

Um, sry to step on you there but traditionally (once the MC is bled) you start with the farthest item and work closer this allows the line with the most contaminants (because its longest) to be purged so there are less residual contaminants to spread to other lines. Left rear is the farthest because the rear T is on the right side of center. Left rear> Right rear> LSV (If you have it)>ABS (if you have it) Passenger front (longer cause lines come from the driver side)> driver front I think When it says bleed the MC valves it assumes starting with a dry MC and you would have hoses from the 3 outlets going back into the reservoir while you pump it. LSV's were typically found on the Pickup D21 chassis and not the Wagon WD21 chassis. it uses lever attached to the axle with a spring to proportion the rear brakes based on how low the vechicle sits (weight or load does this) I would just follow the traditional order listed above and not worry about the MC.

Have you done a brake bleed? See if there's any air in the lines?

Very nice.

blinding others is more than a matter of adjustment because of the pattern that HID light waves move. HID bulbs produce light in an Arc expanding away from the bulb. When used in a halogen projector they generally scatter light in all directions. Halogen bulbs produce light equally in all directions from the filament and thus halogen reflectors are designed to reflect this type of light. There are some good articles out there about doing HID projector retrofits.(google search) This requires a pair of whichever projectors you choose and precisely modifying a headlight housing to hold the projector. And there even guys who will do them for you if you send them your headlights to be retrofitted.

clockwise leans the mixture. It does not control air into the intake. It controls how much air gets sucked past the MAF. Less air past the MAF (clockwise) tells the ecu that it is getting less air and thus it reduces fuel. IIRC This adjustment does not effect rpm ranges above 2800 because that's when the O2 takes over for fuel metering

if you look right over the top of the AC condenser (in the gap between condenser and radiator support) at the cam gear marks, they look ALLOT closer than any other angle you can look at. that being said, Tooth count is a good way to be certain.

I found out from the dealer that they still sell those for $400 a pair.

Red Top is a starting battery, It features higher CCA's but like all starting batteries it does not like complete drains. That being said, the spiral cell design with optima chemical compound (I can't remember whats different) means the optima red will not be on its way out the door after you kill it a few times. (most starting batteries will) Yellow Top is a Deep cycle battery, Not moderate, full deep cycle. Deep cycles feature lower CCA ratings than same other batteries of the BCI group. But they do like repeated full drains, and typically are not as well adapted to constant charging like car applications (shortens their life not being able to drain) In the last 2 years optima has improved their deep cycles for use with constant charging applications so they last about as long as a starting battery. Blue Top comes in two styles; White/ light gray base- Deep Cycle, SAME AS THE YELLOW TOP! Internal construction, CCA, reseve capacity etc... all the same. The only difference is the case and terminals. Black/ dark gray base- Stating / CCA, SAME AS THE RED TOP! Internal construction, CCA, reseve capacity etc... all the same. The only difference is the case and terminals. Now I like the treated post terminals with wing nuts on the blue tops, and I like the color blue (yellow is ugly) and any place trying to sell a blue for anything above $10-15 more than a yellow under the pretense that its "better" or "higher CCA" are just plain scamming. Also Pathy's start fine with low CCA's so if you wanna run a deep cycle for your stereo, winch or simply because you forget to turn your lights off allot then go ahead and do so.

http://blog.caranddriver.com/nissan-celebrates-25th-anniversary-of-pathfinder-with-2011-silver-edition/ Not necessarily silver...

no sleeves, new rancho's come with em but they are not needed

yeah, don't throttle down to zero. you just need to ease off enough that the RPMS don't jump up while stepping on the clutch.

Do you mean engine harness? tranny harness? lighting harness? Door/ speaker harnesses? All but the last will interchange with same engine/tranny combo

soak it with PB blaster. some of them happen to get the splines seized when they try to extend for a BL.

that would be your crank angle sensor. without it your truck will not know when to spark and when to fire the injectors. Fix it or replace and if nothing else is wrong you should be up and running.

Back pressure has nothing to do with the valve operation since it is controlled by mannifold vacuum. However a theroy might be that when the valve opens it may have been opening faster when there was back pressure making a click sound when it was full open. Now that it opens slower it is quieter. Lastly the engine will still get egr when there is less back pressure because the vacuum from the maniflod still pulls the exhaust in from the valve.