MY1PATH

yes, all wd21 doors interchange

the thing about the Q45 pistons... For one you use the same rods you already have and second they raise your compression ratio. 8.9:1 is terribly low (stock) 10:1 will yield more low end torque and better MPG. You can still run regular unleaded with 10:1 Perhaps you can send your pistons out somewhere for valve cuts

SO, 23 years! (be sure to add your vote) I think you are the only person who beats me...(22 years with my pathy) And I feel the same way about mine.

Update here, I installed some cam gears today and yesterday and set them to 3 degrees advanced. This should correct the mistake Schneider made in my cam grind (all specs were 3deg retarded) They fit the cams pretty good. They are made by a guy named Russ and can be purchased @ z31 parts.com. Feels great The power is right where I was trying to get it. No massive gains but I can spin the tires under 2k now. Good around town where theres allot of shifts but still feels like a normal Pathy on the Highway where the RPMs are up higher.

This is modified; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29793&view=findpost&p=565021&hl=&fromsearch=1 I will be doing a take 3 this summer. Take 1 is pretty much locked, take 2 is a little more street friendly hopefully take 3 will perfect for my needs If not, I may go with a locker.

NPORA Forums> General Topics> The Garage > How-To's> Search This forum > "Body Lift" 6th reslut down http://npora.ipbhost...ft&fromsearch=1

No tranny, Direct drive Babay! You can always pull a manual from a wd21. The VG block fitment is the same and the gear ratios are lower.

x2 watch the first pathfinder in the vid and see that the rear wheel makes it around almost 2 rotations before the fonts engage and do some pulling. So when trying to rock you will go back ~2 rotations to unlock and ~2 more to re-lock...

Every now and then 4th grinds on me It usually happens when you just miss the point where it won't go down because your between gears. I found switching hand position lines up the gear smoother; Back hand facing left with thumb pointing down for up shifts and backhand facing right and thumb up for down shifts. I been pretty hard on 1st 2nd and 3rd and never had any issues; clutch dumps, massive engine braking, 4lo wheelies, jumping, yanking on crap etc...

Last time I used the pathy that way I actually stayed in the driver seat. Even with the tilt wheel the horn got hit a few times lol.

your low on brake fluid. Top it off and know that this is a common question.

funny, I have a bumper that was MADE FOR A PATHFINDER and It still needs more work than that... Guess I shoulda bought a trail gear.

Actually 2 Optima batteries will sit side by side in there if you rotate them 90* But you have to pull them out to change your headlight.

There is a nut welded to the inside of the frame. Going oversize will not leave you enough material to safely hold the bolt.

I used the same size as the stock bolt and the same length as the nut. Longer ones will not cold work into the hole properly because they go past the nut.

yes, there are Diff drop bushings that wd21's and wd22's. They have an offset hole that lowers the front Diff 3/8" to reduce CV stress. They are found at 4x4parts.com and ruggedrocksoffroad.com

Compared to last time take 2 is allot more tolerable on the street with 31's and the traction will get fully tested at Elbe next week. As stated take 2 is 20% less shim than take one. Take 3 will be 50% less shim than take 1 I'm trying to go for a little less tire wear but hopefully it will still drive off a jack And its quite noisy (chirp chirp chirp) in polished concrete garages like SeaTac Airport.

I had the same problem. Timeserts are your friend. http://www.timesert.com/ since the hole has no bottom a helicoil could work its way out with repeated use of the bolt. The timesert has a flare that seats into countersink arround the hole and if thats not enough the installtion tool expands them and cold works them into the repair hole. Helicoils must be installed and kept 'dry' as grease may make them slip and locktite may make them come out with the bolt.... I still have my timesert kit with 3 inserts left...

yeah I had to use my largest vise grip and tighten it after locking it +Heat +PB. I was sure the flare nut was gonna split.

Today I took the day off work. I installed my new Stainless bake lines. Seems 4x4 parts sent me their 27" axle line(10" extended) instead of the one that normally comes with the extended brake line kit (3" extended) Oh well, It has more than enough of reach now, just like my flipped parking cables. Hell I could run it under the axle on a stock pathy and it would still be long enough. Also did some homework and found Out I need a new MC to go with my Disc swap. I also did some homework on Master Cylinders seems I keep glazing my rear brakes and the reason is that they are not baking hard enough to maintain a good baking surface. And thus glaze forms because it never gets scraped off. The bleed, and condition of the calipers are all fine so it all comes down to the MC either faulty or wrong split. (will update this on my disc swap thread too) So there are 4 MC's found on pathys broken into 2 groups; 15/16" bore for older models and 1" bore for 93.5+ each group has 2 "Split Point x Reducing Ratio" one for disc and one for drum. 15/16" Drum Split x Ratio 427psi x 0.2 15/16" Disc Split x Ratio 569psi x0.4 1" Drum Split x Ratio 356 psi x 0.2 1" Disc Split x Ratio 569 psi x 0.4 what this means is that the disc brake MC's proportion more to rear than drum MC's. This makes sense because it takes more fluid to move that big disc piston than it does the little durum pistons.

yeah they only provided copper washers for my front banjos. Also they gave me their 27" line instead of the normal 3" extended line (20") shown as 9" longer than my 1" extension. I had to re-use my brass block because theirs was defective and my front flare nuts rounded off before they got loose. (never been touched in 20 yrs). So yeah It would seem like a straight forward task but mine took all afternoon.

so here's the space I work in BTW. It's 8.5'x8.5' including shelves. Total Floor space is 5.5'x7' Working on the postrunner one end is always on a shelf. and that little heater in the front took a crap today. The fan died and the coils got red and loose untill they fell into eachother and shorted even more... I unplugged the smoking heap and hit it with a hose untill it was cool enough not to light my trash can. Good thing Its summer soon.

You gonna do another how-to Doc?

Get some Moog Springs from rock auto or your favorite autodealer.($70?) They have a progressive spring rate for better load hadling but still maintian comfort when Unloaded. IF you plan on/ want some lift OME also makes some heavier duty springs. Either setup should allow the pathy to handle 750lbs or so without any handling issues. Don't forget good shocks on all 4 corners. Rancho 5000's Go a long way for load capacity. Hell I carried 500lbs of scrap in my rig with no isses and my springs are softer than the ones I recomended.

Like I said before for winter street driving with LSD you should only lock 1 hub This will eliminate the understeer issues you get with locking both and still provide you some power from the front. Search my threads for modifying the rear LSD for more grip. Or get a powertrax for your open. I think they run about 300 bucks. Any LSD up front will be better than open. The 300zx model is hard to find as most of them were open or viscous type.