MY1PATH

The Xterra/Frontier is the new Pathfinder/Hardbody. The R50 has no truck compliment. Xterra/Frontier WD22/D22 Pathfinder/Hardbody WD21/D21 The frames between the 4 are very close. The IFS is similar, Steering boxes interchange, Skid plates interchange, Idler arms interchange, centerlinks interchange I think even sway bars interchange and the list goes on But none of the above will fit on an R50 or R51

BTW... my motorcycle, and BOTH my pathfinders All Run on the same key.

Take it to a transmission place. I paid less than that to have my tranny replaced and they had to swap the T-case. If its still to high, wait on it...

MANY TIMES; I have taken a new or used pathfinder lock cyl to a locksmith to have it re-set to my existing key. They can do this with Lock Cyls, Ignitions, door locks and even traditonal master locks. Its not normally done on the traditional locks becuase its cheaper to buy new matching ones. But for car, keys and house keys It is cheaper to just re-key one lock insead of buying all new. Sure some locks look like they don't come apart but Lock shops have lock presses and crimp tools like they used on my pathfinder locks. Some locks take master keys that are the same as normal keys but 2 tublers longer that allow you to turn the key further and dissaseble the entire lock form the use of such key..... I could go on... Don't ask why I know so much about locks.

Flattening the bottom of that quarter panel like that is exactly what I want to do. Get it up and out of the way cause I've got a nice log dent there on both sides to justify it.

Not so easy, The LSD carrier is too different. If the ring bolt size and pattern is the same you can swap the R&P but that will require setting up your backlash again. The H233b is the easiest to do but it would still be a pain for a first timer. If you bring both 3rd's a place like 4x4 parts can set your backlash for you for $$$ You'll need that for the front anyway right?

Sure, If you have an open you just need to swap out the side gears and spider gears from your pathy. In my LSD thread you will see some tips for getting the 3rd apart, take apart the diff like I did mine and swap your internals. then re- assemble your 4.9 open in the same housing the 4.9 was in using my writeup and you will not have to re-align the ring and pinion. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29793&view=findpost&p=565021&hl=&fromsearch=1

I bet a non-experienced searcher could find in in double that eh?

Thanks B

OH and the 33 splines use larger seals... You could swap the whole X axle. Lotta work but if your skilled and that determined go for it. you could go lazy and swap the leaf suspension that's the easiest way but .... Maybe call ARB and see if you can just swap out the splined part of the locker?

unfortunately the Locker is the reason It will NOT work. The LOCKER is 33 spline and your pathy is 31. The X axles are too long for the pathy. The rest would be easy.

@ 8 MPG I would look for other problems BEFORE you start the M30 swap. You do not want existing problems to confuse new ones. 16-22 is very reasonable to ask from a pathy if its had some nice things done to it. Infiniti M30 is your donor vehicle. the harness should be the same but the pin out (wire location on the harness) is different. M30 pinouts will be on z31performance.com or in a M30 FSM. Pathfinder pin outs will be in a pathfinder FSM. get a pin extractor (or get good with a micro flat screwdriver) and convert the pathy pinout to the M30 plug it in and sawp over the M30 Titania O2 sensor, M30 MAF and Pathy auto TPS if you don't have one. The M30 TPS will not work on the pathy TB because its on the opposite side. BUT the TB might swap with the TPS if you wanna use M30 TPS and TB together. Have fun

I started down that road, did lots of homework, read the mega manual several times etc... got a list of parts, wire diagrams etc... the more I learned the more I came to realize it is not simple... Yeah you can handle wires and parts and PC's just fine but the biggest thing is that its a MAP (manifold air pressure) ECU that runs off of VE (volumetric efficiency tables) Yes, its nice the Mega Squirt takes a barometric sample before startup so it can calibrate itself to altitude and atmosphere but EVERYTHING else requires YOU. You have to calculate and program the VE table for your engine and if you change any part of how your engine breathes (intake, exhaust, cams etc...) your VE table must be re-calculated to suit it. Getting it dialed in can be difficult and time consuming. Getting it fine tuned after that is not so bad and will be quite precise. Now consider a MAF (mass air flow) ecu. First you already have one and yes, I know, you want more out of it.... the big difference here is that it measures air volume and generates its own fuel maps (instead of you programing VE tables) When you change some part of how your engine breathes (intake, exhaust, cams etc...) change of air volume is automatically picked up by the MAF and fuel maps are automatically adjusted (sometimes an ecu reboot is required) Altitude, atmosphere, YES! those come down to different densities of air and still get picked up by the MAF. That being said, maybe you can see that for a daily driver (or just ease of upgrading) that your next ecu should be a BETTER MAF based ECU. Enter the Infiniti M30 ecu; If you are MPFI then you already have the correct wiring in your pathfinder to run it. You just need to Re-pin the harness, install a Titania O2 sensor, M30 MAF and an automatic tranny TPS (throttle position sensor). The auto TPS gives the ecu your exact throttle postion, the manual TPS just tells OPEN, CLOSED and WIDE OPEN. THE m30 ECU by itself may grant you better MPG, it was the cream of the crop for VG30E ECU's The M30 ecu is much smoother operation than the stock pathy ecu, idles better than the mega squirt, and tunes easier(I'll get to tuning). The M30 ecu is ecu of choice for Nisstune, it is basically plug and play upgrade by installing their daughter board. this gives you PC interface and the tuning capabilities. Once you got it where you want it SET IT AND FORGET IT. It will adapt to breathing changes just fine and will only need more tuning if you start boosting. (yes it is turbo/ SC friendly with nisstune installed) BOTTOM LINE: I learned allot about both systems and both conversions. More than I can cover in one page and I was dead set on getting a MS3X (mega squirt) until I had studied both systems side by side. The M30 is more compatible, more reliable, more user friendly and if your lucky (JY shopper here) MUCH MORE COST EFFECTIVE. Have fun, Lots of info on the M30 swap on Z31performance.com

That cooler should give you no issues as long as its on the return side. I don't think you need it either but hey, have fun with it.

I hate billet flanges.

well he Checked it and it there, so it did its job right?

I would say more than 180cc. But I have no official data.

Do you mean the 2 door MPFI? I wanna say there were only 500 of them in the USA...

Drain the TC and re-fill it with clean fluid.

the whacking trick doesn't seem to work on these rigs unless you have stuck solenoid. My 89 just took a dump too, I pulled it out and found the motor brushes were far too worn out. (250k on one starter) But if its a heat related problem you may need a replacement. I can't imagine having any teeth issues the starter only goes in one way and as long as you used a pathfinder flywheel (not one for another VG; M30,Z31, z32, etc...) the flywheel teeth are the same.

that was my logic as well They also restrict less if the exhaust going in is Hotter

if its a manual shift T-case the wires only run the dummy light...

Be careful, thats a hot item. Be ready to beat them off with a stick.

^ I would look into MOOG or SPICER for them bearings.