MY1PATH

The problem Is you put premium in it! As rule; ALWAYS run the lowest octane the egine will run smoothly on. OCTANE IS NOT POWER OR QUALITY. It is resistance to burning. In other words premum gas burns slower and at the wrong time. In some engines you can actually Burn the valves by running premimum because the gas is still burning when the valve opens.

My PIAA's lasted quite some time 2 or 3 I think. Funny thing is they both failed at the exact same time. I been running cheepo bulb lately but I'm due to get some PIAA's for both my pathys soon.

BUMP

A metal one may damage your radiator support, AC condenser and more if you hit somehting. I'd stick with plastic and get some protection from a bumper a grille bar instead. Maybe take a smitty built of an 80's yota or S10 (both are a good size) and have it welded to you bumper mounts. Maybe 80 bucks in labor if you pull the part. More if you want re-enforced mounting.

My personal favorites where the Piaa Etreme whites. I've used the silverstars, GE, and a few others but I still liked the PIAA best. And heres a secret (unless they changed it) go to their site and buy 2 single bulbs (reasonably priced) because the 2pack actually cost more lol.

I was there with MR JIM right before they closed. The rumor I had heard at the time was that it was gonna be fixed up and re-opened in 2YRS. BUT, I guess that rumor was wong considering there's an open sponsor budget for getting it fixed...

Idono about Nissans but In many other makes a Quality shop can balance an assembly to a smaller increment then what was done at the assembly line. ex. down to 3 grams instead of down to 10 grams. This can enhance the smoothness of the engine and increase its lifte. Both of wich will not be very noticable.

I did a lot today... I started with some crazy parking... Then I installed my Z pulley wich took longer than expected because of timing cover clearance issues but now its good to go. The crank pulley needed a 1.5~2mm shim behind it to clear the timing cover. This shim also allows it get a better position on the woodruff key. And then a custom spacer on the front since the pathy crank snout is loger than the pulley. This allows the 2" serp pulley to go back onto my 180A Ford Alty (fixing some High cut in isues I was having) The water pulley actually came from a Q45 but 300zx pullies are the same Then I did some more crazy parking, but this time it was with the front wheels. And LooK what I had room to do when one wheel drops almost all the way... I Cut MY Calmini UCA's so they would stop hitting my shocks. All work was done with tires in place and everything still bolted up. Last pic shows my Improv work light... H3 bulb thru a hole and single positve Jumper cable to power it and pull it against the hole. I welded a Nut inside my Front axle for the front swaybar anchor because the existing nut had been stripped out last summer by a Typo In the FSM ( knew it didn't look right but I was dumb enough to try it anyway). Maybe I'll upload a pic of that later.... And lastly I centered my steering and took it for a spin to make sure it points straight for my trip to belfair next week....

So will the teardrops fit in my 89?

Mine are also tear drop shaped, I'll have to get creative...

x2

I know there are low and high impedce injectors. But I don't know if that is the differance between the black and blue dot... If you use low impedance injectors on a High ecu without adding resitors you will fry the ECU and if you run high on a low ecu your injectors will not fire correctly.

everyone belives that water shorts out all electricty BUT water has resistance too. if you stick a car battery under water the terminals are far enough apart that it will not drain the Battery now if you put a wire on each terminal and run then ends a few MM from eachother crurrent will move across the small space and drain the battery. Now hook a lightbulb up to the battery and the current will stop moving between the 2 open wires because there is less resistance to light the lightbulb to the electicty takes that path instead. So your vehicle keeps running because it is easier for the power to go thru the wires than it is to go thru the water. now the igniton on the other hand can get messed up because electricy has to cross a gap in your dizzy and thats why watter messes with dizzys (the air gap has more resistance than water) and not your alternator. and yes, I do have a hidden snorkel...

once you get the injector fixed do like I did and pour a few qts of ATF into an empty crankcase. this will help flush out some fuel before you put fresh oil in it.

The real reason I fixed it is so that Kyle would stop asking me if I fixed it yet. and yes, I drove it to work today

I still havent installed mine. All my time off was spent waiting for them lol. I'll check back here when I do tho.

Right up my alley, I do sheetmetal, aircracft fabrication. (lots of bending) A bend is always stonger as long as the radius of the bend is within the limits for the materials thickness and given stress level. In english; some grades of aluminum crack under the stress when bent too sharp but most grades of Mild steel can be bent with no increase in stress. Your truly strongest would be and extrusion because the material is generally thicker at the "bend" the added material inside the bend is called the web and the material on the outside(if added) is called the corner. Welding is generally more common because tools to cut and weld are more affordable and take up less space than tools used to bend and press. My favorite bending machine at work is about the size of my pathy.

yes I did, the Wires were; Green/Red(14ga)- EGT White/Red (14ga)- Injector Black Wire (18ga)- pin26 (the one I burned) White/Blue(14ga)- EGR solenoid White/Blue(18ga)- Temp Guage 1) I'm guessing the EGT was the first to go because for 2 weeks before the FAIL I was getting an EGR code. 2) Then went the injectors and I was probably leaning out every time I hit a bump or vibration because my hwy MPGs were getting really good and I thought it was just an EGR leak letting me cruise good. 3) Then died with the black one when the injector power was able to go directly to PIN 26 and burn the circut. I'm surprised the 18ga wire did not burn out somewhere else first. The black wire was pretty toast and its jacket was fused to the Injector wire. 4 & 5) The short location metlted the actual copper on the black and the heat damaged the jackets on the Reamaining two wires. They were not exposed but the burn areas were brittle and ready to crack.

so While I was running diagnostics under the hood a cloud of smoke suddenly errupted from under battery. I kill power and unplug yet another smoking ECU and invesigate under the battery. I Pulled the entire wire harness off the engine to look at it better. And what I saw was some chafing where my Fan bracket is. Opening up the bundle I found 5 damages wires. some were so bad the copper itself had melted. a few ajacent wires also had their jackets fused togehter from the heat. I cut the wires and stripped them back some. The black wire needed a new jacket made of shrink tube. for 2 of the smaller wires I twisted in some more wire at the tip for greater contact inside the crimp. everyting got taped back up and then I taped a hose over that for extra padding. Later on I will shave down my fan brakcet by .75" so the bundle has more wiggle room. (I forgot to take a pic of that) And lastly all my work was supervised by my trusty friend who just sat and did nothing.

ITS ALIVE!!! Still working on it, I think being floolded out of its mind with raw fuel thinned out the oil... I got a filckering oil light.(stays off above 1100RPM) No signs of damage yet but I'm sure its life is diminshed some. It probably needs new plugs after this too. Off to change the oil... 1100PM So Oil came out thick as water and smelling like fuel. It seemed like too much came out. I might be able to run a 2-stroke off this @!*%. I poured some ATF thru it and that also came out with a mild scent of fuel. I Put fresh oil in and truned it over. No more oil light the dipsick has a very mild scent of fuel(or that may be my hand) and I am prolly gonna do the oil again on payday just to be sure.

I found IT!!!time to fix it!!!wire chaffing on the radiator

so your saying, buy some Ford radius arm bushings and use those cups? what do those usually run?

ECU fuse?

I do know a guy, who would bake BK08 on that for about $75. Yes rattle cans are cheaper but $75 doesn't see like much to pay for what you are getting. And re-painting will not be necessary... its tough stuff...