MY1PATH

Thanks for the picture lol. wow there is allot of room under there. Looks like I could put a 1/8 NPT bung almost anywhere on the pan (bottom or 3sides) and not hit anything exept maybe that big round piece on the top left of both pics. FWD driver side? Keep us posted, I really need to get a gauge and cooler goin. During Our cold spell the 94 was shifting really hard from 1st to 2nd.

x2 not to mention that VG in the race car has a rev limit of 10,000RPM and I think it pulls all its shifts between 6,500 and 9,000. Thats right, the driver changes gears at higer RPMS than the stock pathy rev-limeter will allow... And even in that car it is said to have a bullet proof bottom end wich brings us back to reliability... Lastly, that car is about 1/3 the wieght of a pathy...

OK I'll play nice. my favorite writeup on the 3.3 swap is by chevyman_57 who is not on this board. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=205223&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

Can we make it manditory that every member read this thread and then take a comprehsion test on it? AND NO POSTING WILL BE ALLOWED untill the member scores 100% on the comprehension test.

the 3.3 (vg33e) really puts life back into the old pathfinders. they are found in r50 pathfinders, frontiers and xterras... BUT ALL THIS HAS BEEN COVERED BEFORE!!! USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION, or better yet use google to search this site. (site specific search under advanced on google)

He wants to cut the BODY behind the rear seats, which is as good as doing a HB cab swap. hence NO BOBING INVOLVED

x2 on all of that saved me allot of key strokes

did you mistakenly switch your left and right cam gears when you were doin the cams?

who said anything about bobing it? That is the full length frame there. Nothing structural has been done to it. he just added a mount for his tire and stuff but the frame is un-modified. And Coils (pathfinder) have advantages over leafs as far as comfort, articulation and road handling. Leafs on the other hand have the advnatace to better load handling in more consistant handling characteristics in varying load situations.

I think There was a hardbody extended cab. Not common but you might still find one.

allot of patence and allot of custom work is what that was. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23011&view=findpost&p=410385 I can give you the rundown (if I can remeber it) if your really dedicated to the cause. Or I can do another... It took me about a week to get everything the way I liked it. Cold, limited drying space and limited selection of JY vehcles may slow me down. I'd have to give you a hobby price(low)+ parts & shipping. Oh and getting an un-broken 15yr old clear plastic cover would be up to you lol

yeah thats what I mean by the latch. If you open the rear compartment on the right and follow the cable to the door you'll find the latch. squeeze the top and bottom of it and you can slide it out the gas door(if the door is open) pull it out the gas door and turn it 90* towards you and you will see the cable end running into the latch. put some grease in this litte groove and push on the latch so is goes both into the latch body and into the cable housing. snap it back in place put a dab of greas on the outside of the latch and push on it again to get grease in that side too. No more sticking.

The thing about e-bay is the products can be top of the line or run of the mill. Ask the seller for a brand name if your not sure of the product quality and then go compare that bands price/ quality at actual online store. Allot of nice parts find their way to ebay for simple reasons like, overstocks, wherhouse closings and such. So, unlike the local dollar store, there is high chance your getting a good deal and not a crappy product.

Actually the HB cab swap is a bolt on swap. No fabrication reqired. If you can turn a wrench its just as safe as factory. You only get into FAB when you get into making the flat bed portion.

x2 last summer a guy from n4w had a first hand experice with this. He was out of acetone so he used brake cleaner. It took a few days but the end result was he had his lugs shut down on him.

I put vasaline on all the door seals to they sick less. The wifes gass door latch froze shut and the hot water I used to free it froze the door itslef shut the next day. More hot water, dry it, pulled the latch out and greased it. Greased all the latches on both Pathys; 12 degrees this moring and nothing is stuck shut

I know bolts can come in any coating you buy but in the case of allen bolts allot a majority of them are black oxide coated (or they're stainless) This black oxide coating does not suit well to the penitration small area welds. Zinc coated (less common for allen) and stainless (as common as black oxide) weld just fine Those dremel thin cut cutoff wheels work great for taking off bolt heads without hurting the part. you can always leave a sliver of the bolt head intact and break that off with a sharp impact when your ready to pull the part. x2 on cutting a flat head, that often my favorite option.

Thanks for asking something new. You should be promoted for that. Its not very often that somone joins and asks a question that hasn't been answered before.

maybe one of your coolant lines is cracked.

UM the second post tells you your answer. The spacer will literally fit inside our coils its so small. But just to re-state; Jeep coil spacers go on the smaller pigtail end of the jeep coil and pathfinder coils do not have a pigtial.

The PF side lights have that lower screw hole that hangs off at an angle with litte support. I've broken many of those on branches and such... The HB side lights are continueous piece with a single web in that area so they take allot more abuse.

hmm I think the singe wire spade for the Dizy is a black wire. I don't remember what color for the A/C tho.

the switch is a dial that you turn with a screw. It deceptively says idle speed next to it and when turned all the way clockwise it enters diagnostics mode.