MY1PATH

AND ONCE MORE, GRRR! LOL so went thru a puddle and heard a squeal. "Oh, loose belt I'll have to check that" I said so the alty belt was loose and I grab a 12mm and get to the tensioner. WTF!?!? completely backed off and seized!!! The alty belt must have been tightened with a prybar and then locked in place with the tensioner bolt. so I take the tensioner off as the bolt is pretty siezed hit it with a torch till it losens up brush off the rust and carbon scales grease it up and it works fine now. Few min with a torch and few more with a wire brush. now really who couldn't do that? Or why not replace it if they don't have a torch? kinda silly

reguardless of whats attached or not can you get a dremel cutoff wheel in there and cut a slot for a screwdriver?

I used a pos cast aluminum kit from the former shucks auto. I've had a few freinds use various cast kits and it seems 50/50 shot of having some issue. Nothing major just annoyances... Go with one of the Billet aluminum kits from summit, you can run barb fittings or have threaded hoses made to fit. Best of all the billet material has fewer imperfections and won't crack or break when your trying to wrench it in a tight spot.

very nice editing, gets right to the point without wasting any time with jubling arround for tools and what not. I also Like that you used a Billet kit as I have seen allot of troubles with many of those cast kits. Infact my Cast kit is cracked and somehow not leaking.... The billet is stronger and easier to put a tools on for installation without deforming.

yes, really, check some things, save some time and money. Valve seals are literally a few bucks for all 12. The most expensive part will be getting a spring compressor made like the one pictured in the other thread. pull your crankcase hoses off for a while and see if that stops it....

oil goes in the small outside holes, allot of filters with anti drainback will have a of rubber or silcone flap that you can see thru these holes. If you are seeing crud in the middle then the filter has cloged and the oil bypassing filter element inside. How long since your last oil change? Was the oil really dark? Maybe you should run a pint of ATF in there and change your oil and filter early to help clean it out... By early I mean 100-250 miles with the ATF or when it gets dark again cause a dirty engine can darken oil 20 miles after the ATF is added.

NO war, I'll keep my opionons out. But I would like to know why silverton doesn't like royal pruple.

I didn't think the black ones were graphite impregnated, I thought they were just plain black poly. also, for kicks Moog's poly is dark blue. aditionally energy suspension recomends using their formula 5 grease on all their bushings to reduce wear and keep noise down.

This is the biggest reason why I installed a remote Oil filter. And also why I will be doing it again on my wifes 94.

There is an ajuster attached to the break pedal. If your new MC plunger is even 1/16 shorter or longer your pedal could feel 1/2" longer or shorter (lever effect) I have mine ajusted so that I am applying just the right ammount of brake when I slide my heel over to the gas for a downshift anda seamless transiton from disc brakes to engine breaking. Anyway I know it is commonly recomneded to Benchbleed MC's and let them soak overnight before bench bleeding again and installing...

yes it can, for many reasons and all of wich can be common on neglected patfinders. here are a few but don't rule other things out like loose calipers or other parts of the vehicle UCA bolts, these buggers cause lots of problems when sripped or loose. Alignment shims fall out, aligment wont say the same when driving they tend to clunk or sometimes rattle under breaking and hard accelerating Compression rod bushings, if these are worn out your lower control arm move arround constantly chaging your castor angle. Compression rod cups, the cups that seat the bushings can rust out and spit or disappear all together. when this happens the strut rod can walk arround in its hole and will do so more as it wears out the hole. LCA and UCA bushings, less common but still possible. Each control arm sould be able to rotate without and lateral or hoizantal play. LCA bushings require removing the T-bars and entire lower control arm. UCA bushings are a bit easier.

nope, if the sensor is just leaking and not malfunctioning. If the oil light comes on you have no PS and I would stop driving imediately.

OH yes, search google there should be some cat diagnostics charts on there. Your are looking for soot & carbon (its ok if the grid is black) you should be able to see light thru it. If you have melting then you have a fuel issue.... YOU try to can clean it out using sensor safe carb cleaner (not break cleaner). or just replace it. remember to recyle you old one, you might get some $ back.

how is pruple not of actual quality. Granted amsoil is very good but I'd say they both stand above the crowd when it comes to quality and engine protection.

lol I got bussy and let the wiffe go over 250+miles with a full pint of trans tune in there. She started saying "it feels like its not taking 4th anymore" I got in the car and drove it with her I watched the tach and it certainly took 4th but you couldn't feel it unless you were getting on it.

I does depend some on the climate. If you bypass and have trouble keeping your tranny over 100 I would stop bypassing it.

really? I thought the options were POLY and RUBBER and with POLY you get to chose red or black 'cause they can dye it...

Oil PS sensor just aft of the filter. Sometimes they get loose and other times they just wear out and leak thru the plug.

Updated with pictures see post #2. Results: Unlike when I did my 89 I did not feel a big differance this time. Infact, aside from the slight change in tone I didn't notice anything at all. Maybe its the rest of the stock exhaust holding it back, the cat was amost last on my 89(headders and muffer were done first) Or maybe my 89 was just clogged real bad. I'll report back later if I see some MPG improvements.

yep I'm pretty sure its 4 psi on the same block and interals. Now L&P ran 12+PSI (also on stock internals) and I think he threw a rod. A pulley would do some good for an M62 but really the M90 (built for 3.0 and up) is what belongs on there. Superchargers still run risk of pre-detonation(any form of forced induction really) but the variables are differant. Intercoolers are not as important for keeping the knock down and since the boost can come in at ANY RPM the spark timing has to be allot more flexible. You could bolt that M62 up (or an m90 many had the same bolt pattern), hook up an MSD BTM and you would be good to go. If your panning on raising the boost allot I'd think you'd want 8.5:1 pistons to help keep the knock down. But the more you boost and the more you dish the piston the more you work towards peak power instead of flat torque.(you'll still get more torque it just won't be flat)

Actually the can says 1/2 pint to 1 pint and drive atleast 5 miles or run in each gear for 3 minutes while sationary. Its a 1 pint can so he really didn't do anything wrong exept remember what the can said lol. This made my 94 feel smoother too and the fuid came out quite dark. I'll be doing another flush soon...

Well I can confirm that sewebster isn't the first or the last person to strip the bolts by running them up to the FSM spec of 58-65ftlbs. Page FA-37 gives you that spec for both the bolts into the frame and the clamp bolt and it is wrong. If you run back to page FA-5 you can see it gives a differant spec for the clamp bolt (12-16 ftlbs) so I would apply that Lower spec to BOTH BOLTS INSTEAD. Lastly on page FA-3 it too says 12-16 ftlbs for the 2wd pickup anchors which use the same bolts in a differant location. So your corrected spec is 12-16 ftlbs for those little m10 bolts. On the fromt swaybar calmp and mounting the clamp to the frame.

...Please note the FSM torque specs for the front and rear sway bars are wrong... I think they are really supposed to be like 30~40ftlbs 12-16 ftlbs

Hey before you start your engine up you must follow a run-in procudure. Use Lots of ZDDP oil too (royal purple and shneider formula 2 break in oil ar good) the first few moments are crucial!!! ZDDP is a wear reducer and as of 2003 most oils don't have it because newer cars are built differant.

ZDDP!!! its good for your lifters and bearings. Opinoins on oil vary but you should have ZDDP in your oil. 2qts of royal purple or a bottle of schneider formula 3 should do you well as far as zddp levels.