nunya

not too often I actually agree with nismoblunder Personally, just to make sure it ain't a manifold issue I would snag some washers for those long bolts because as stated there's a possibility of them being bottomed out and acting as tight while still having enough clearance to make that difference. Torque everything back down to it's correct limits (don't want a manifold to warp or screw up one of those nice new gaskets). Just to take the repairs done out of the equation. Some poking with a mechanics stethoscope can do some wonders as well (the screwdriver trick works, but just imagine what it misses compared to something designed for that purpose! Plus you can generally get a stethoscope into some of those hard to access areas a screwdriver blade is just to fat for). Does it make th noise with all the accessory belts removed? Onl takes a couple minutes to pull the belts to eliminate all the stuff routed that way from the equation a well. Have the ability to make a video/sound clip?

It's a fact of safety and fixing things CORRECTLY... a suggestion of ignoring an issue is completely pointless and useless. If your mechanic tells you that is how he fixed ANY issue, be it an oil leak, dry rotted tire, cracked brake shoe... (I hope your starting to get the point here) I'm pretty sure you ain't gonna be very happy with paying him. directly from the forum guidelines: 4. If you do not know the answer, you don't have to answer. There is no shame in not knowing an answer, but if you misinform people it can hurt us all. You may think I am personally attacking your every post but you must remember that just because you could care less about safety issues you think are pointless, posting 'ignore it' is the exact opposite of of being a helpful part of this place. Safety on our roadways IS important as most people here DD their trucks let alone use them for other offroad uses. Please remember this and think before hitting enter.

now there's a horrible piece of unhelpful advice... Leaks should NOT be ignored, especially if FLAMMABLE oil is getting onto exhaust. I know here in PA alone that's a no-no for safety inspection so "just leave it" don't fly. As stated it's a bit of work but you have to drop the front diff and the gasket itself is RVT (vg30 as people are stating here and ka motors I can vouch are the same way in a 4x)

to each their own though I'm personally partial to my 2 door (and the 2 door folks will generally all back up their choice as well) but when was looking for a truck for my wife honestly wanted a 4 door wd21 (won't get involved here as to what she ended up with) as for 33s, 3+3=33 as stated is the 'general' rule but there are plently of exceptions. Theres people who run and wheel on 33s with stock height trucks (I may be lifted and not on as big of a tire but like me a nice big tire/low COG truck )so depending on how much you like your tin, cut and mount some 33s how it sits!

Sounds about right for what I hear about Calmini...

Not a fan of that particular wheel personally but am happy they made the front end components look like they were actually made for them now compared to the 4gen 4runner style cobbed together parts bin look. Enjoy it though

CarQuest, Napa, Pep Boys... Parts stores will have them. Last time I actually cared about gaskets and not just welding flanges shut I went to my local CarQuest, they had a ton of them. Nit some super rare golden commodity

Again... Research. There pics and proof here on NPORA alone... edit: simple search of "dual fuel gauge" here using that invisible thing in the top right corner and wah laa! http://img852.imageshack.us/img852/6632/imag0087.jpg

someone put time into making the bed 'look' better, a rear bumper is easy to switch. It don't take much in an accident to tweak a frame (believe me, I see it often enough with obvious bends, let alone ones not exactly visible to the naked eye). If you plan on wheelin a lot, a well thought out flatbed could be a sweet option after ditching the putty buddy bed

I've merged the 2 topics as you have already started 1 thread on this problem, there is no need for 2. Remember you can just post in a topic to bring it back to the top of results, not necessary to make a new one because you don't see it anymore and miss it. As for your issue, as has been already said (and ahardb0dy even gave you dimensions) start measuring. The fact the bumper sits level with the bed removes the fact it's a tweaked bed illusion (which that bed is a giant puddle anyway and who knows how bad it is underneath the bodywork that's falling out, let alone bodywork that AIN'T falling out yet), it's bolted to the frame-not the bed. The way the leafs are sitting though I would suspect a bend in the frame that is between the leaf mounting points, thus making both ends of the leaf on the left side 'closer' to each other, which will arch that side more, raising that side higher.

Just remember on Top Gear, Clarkson made a boat out of a HB (after the lessen he learned with the Toyboata, which still worked but needed a kink or 2 ironed out). Sure it was for 'entertainment purposes' but it worked

wats for submarine mod comments to flow in I'd rather just have me an old DUKW, but I'm the type that would over-enjoy using it as a DD...

None seen by me, just backing him up a little being 1 of the 2wd guys round these parts cut it off before someone starts WOT, that got a decent little stance now... lacking that gap I'm sure as you said though, the fair weather set do it better justice

If your goeing that deep into it, you may want to possibly look into replacing the engine completly (a few options there, staying with a correct multiplex 3.0, 3.3 upgrade, etc). Or looking into building the frankenstein 3.4 (mr.510 just completed this iirc and might be able to help on that note). Whatever your choice though, more power to it!

THIS is the FREE FSM dl thread Rear hatch switch adjustment can be solved by a simple adjustment or washer addition (some people just disconnect them as well but to each their own) THIS is the blower resistor/cleanup how to does the transmission have the stock cooler bypassed and an aftermarket external one? the factory one clogging is the general downfall to the autos. As for the brakes, it need front, rear, both, rotors as well, rear disc or drum brakes, etc etc... little more info there and the right ammount of info can be passed on

laughable is the fact we really needed another thread about the number 6 plug, let alone the thought of changing only 1 plug...

neat... good principal to it, I like my normal drainplug though. Call me a creature of habit and if your that worried about a magnet on your drainplug, just stick a strongish one on your oil pan

new parts bring fail just like old ones do. New don't = perfect all the time, hopefully you just got a bad one

nope lookin good though

I sure hope not...

That's why you buy real quality tools And that's the jack handle iirc, hooks to the adjuster on it, clockwise up-counter clockwise down.

Easy on him, he may be a reflector collector but he brings some usefulness as well and I'm sure uses a bunch of the caR50 4x tricks

its dark and cold out so going by brail and a dying pocket flashlight it looks/feels like the upper heater hose goes towards the left bank on the engine, the lower to the right bank. If that makes any sence...

Must not work THAT well Still gotta find me a factory 2nd gen 4runner one... Just too dam cheap

"a truck to pick up"... It's for recievig the donated toys... Read slower