nunya

Generally I belive most 'newer' vars are wired and have fuse blocks for if they have every option imaginable thats avalable on it. Add desired option, plug into already existant wiring, add switch,fuse,& or combination of relay and you now have that option.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23454&view=&hl=interlock&fromsearch=1 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23091&view=&hl=interlock&fromsearch=1 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21835&view=&hl=interlock&fromsearch=1 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19999&view=&hl=interlock&fromsearch=1 Saving B from doeing it.

When I was looking and could only find 4 doors, I don't ever remember seeing any pre-cats on them. Think it would have stuck out when I was frame inspecting (since I went from bumper to bumper on both rails when I looked). Neither of my 88s have one either, nor any of my old HBs(though they were all some form of 4 cylinder z or ka) As far as I know only the one I drive now is from somewhere other than PA.

Goeing to guess a front one? Bad socket? Ran into it a fiew times with mine. Replaced the socket(basicly the whole back part of the lense) no issue until the next one goes. Have a test light? Make sure you got power and grond goeing to it. One last question, your not puttign in the cheap LED bulbs from Pep Boys/Advance/etc? They don't draw enough and act as a 'bad bulb'

Don't personally know about R50s but does it really do anything? If not, ditch it, if so try to flatten it down some... I know I saw hair driedr mensioned in here, should heat it up enough to make it work (guessign it's plastic)

I'm proably not the best person for this advice but my rad is on it's 3rd truck(in my posesion, not including the donor) and is out of an automatic, I've only had it in manuel trucks and as for the transmission cooler ports... well There is a cut off rubber hose hanging from both of them and I never did a thign about them. I would say main priority would be the cooler before worrying about plugging the rad ports.

Agreeing as well having gone through it before on a previous truck(left side though and would get louder when turning right)

Mine did that until I changed the alt. Wasn't hurtign anythgin to my knolidge but the alt was starting to overcharge and gave me an excuse to do the Maxima swap. Does the turn signal fluid need changed? Not burnt or too dark?

You paid $800 for a under 100k miled 4x4 and are upset to be sinking some money in it? Anyway... Definatly check the pan bolts as said, nice cheap fix sometimes. Teritory markers are a little annoying, ask the spot in my lawn that's finally starting to grow back... You sure it's oil on both ends as well? Not a p/s leak up front or anything? Hate to see money get wasted fixing something that wasn't even the problem.

I was able to do my starter without taking the oil filter off but I do have a 3" Bl as well. Taking the starter off the parts truck...different story.

I think you need to get in the mindset that nicks and scratches, happen when ON the road let alone off... proably not the advice you wanted but it's life, sorry.

For your coating the area with somethign before covering it question, I haven't looked into it yet but one of my friends who is a bodyman said they have a 'weld through' primer thats avalable in a spray can. Was tellign me about it since he knows I'm gonna do things myself and see how long it lasts before he has to fix it, and he likes when it takes a long time to get to that point. Might be something to look into.

I've done that to my Eclipse, it don't hold the greatest there( is a hard spot to make a good clean surface for it though in JB Weld's defence) As for the band clamp JJ is talking about, they are great for stuff like that, they hold the exhaust togher on the 6500 Chevy at work and still shine like brand new

No fair!!! Your supposed to call finished BEFORE you test drive and complain every other day when something else pops up and call finished after every other repair!(talking from experience? you decide) Congrats on gettin it done man enjoy having the corect number of pedals under the dash!

I fixed the windshield one by changing my windshield, glued a new molding in.(frined that worked for a glass company hooked me up with a little 'extra') Not very helpful but it solved my issue.

Yea, it's a Beretta (or 2 door Corsica if you want to be blunt about it, little bigger/heavier than a Cavie). As said You should be ok with a dolly just go for an aftermarket trans cooler before stressing the trans. Don't want to replace that...

same here only PS3 and DS...

Zing!

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Have to agree with B, both times. Definatly start with checking-removing-cleaning-re connecting all connections. Odds are something isn't making good contact at the battery or starter. Starter has to be unbolted ot move the trans to get to the clutch, would generally disconnect the batt while doeing the job and if the starter wasn't tatally pulled they could have been lazy and let it hand from the wires, messing up the power flow.

Verry Dark Color? And how did you not pick up on B messin with you?

Dam, am I lucky that everyone I have dealt with was quick and honest here? (j/k I know it's just the bad deals that get brought into the light, which I don't have anythign against. Just hope it gets worked out for those involved. Kudos on the patience of those on the reciving end as well!)

Any non-suspensio related objects that could be interfering with moving stuff up front possibly hitting anythign?

Mine honestly only did it when I would pull out from a dead stop, that or was the only time I listened.

U-joint? Had a similar issue everytime I would pull out.