nige

Unless it fell on a date somewhere around the big road trip i'm planning, probably not. But if i'm in the area during my travels, I would definitely make it a stop on my journey.

Hey Marcel, have you considered making skidplates from UHMW plastic? I hear they are lighter than steel and just as strong.

I agree with those of you that say build your own system. I built my home machine in 2005. Here's what I put in it: Windows XP Professional SP2 AMD Athlon 64 3000 CPU socket 939 250 Western Digital HD (I hear Seagate is junk) Gigabyte K8NS Motherboard AMD Socket 939 (So I can upgrade to one of those hawt AMD FX-60 Toledo processors) ATI 256mb 9600 XT AGP video card (I can still upgrade to a sweet AGP video card like a 9800XT-if you can find one) LG 16x DVD writer 2x512mb RAM (can hold a total of 4GB) Soundblaster Audigy 2 5.1 surround sound card (also upgradeable) all encased in an Antec Sonata II case with room for 4 more internal HD's, and 2 more parking spaces under the DVD burner for other goodies It cost me about $1000 cdn in march 2005. Many of these components can be purchased at a fraction of the price nowadays. Although a little dated, as this machine stands now, it will do just about anything within a reasonable amount of time (except for video editing) It plays most games with ease (I play a lot of Counter Strike Source and Half Life 2 stuff with decent (50fps) framerates). Movies are not choppy or pixellated and the system has barely slowed down since I bought it. I've installed and unistalled a pile of software and my HD is about 60% full right now with pictures, music and DVDs. I haven't had any antivirus software for about a year now and I have no viruses on it whatsoever (and I stay away from the pr0n sites). I do a AdAware and SpyBot search about once every 2 months and they rarely find any threats. I've seen the 'blue screen of death' once on it after I screwed up trying to update a driver to make my videogame work. I am pretty merticulous about keeping everything clean and updated a nd I think that has alot to do with my lack of problems with this particular machine. I like the software on Macs, but I hate the actual package. Their stupid mice, ugly white dirt attracting peripherals, all-in-one constructions (if one component breaks, you lose the whole machine ) and unfamiliar OS are enough of a nuisance for me not to buy one. I also agree that they are somewhat over-priced, but so are Dells. I always said if you grew up using a PC, stay with the PC. If you are completely new to computers, a Mac can make a lot of sense. I just don't like how they are marketed towards snobby, ignorant, trendster/scenester, computer-illiterate retards. Here is a tongue-in-cheek look at Mac users: One thing PC users can do that Mac users can't I also use a Dell Latitude D610 for work/travel. It has been a good machine, but it's overpriced ($2600), under-powered, and very susceptable to slow downs. The complete-care warranty has been a lifesaver so far (even though they don't cover batteries -88pathoffroad ) They look cheap in the flyers, but as soon as you start upgrading from their shiatty base-model, they tend to get pricey. Lenovo (used to be Thinkpads) are compareable, but a little more pricey.

I came across these while looking for forged wheels... just incase you want to take your truck duckhunting and your chrome wheels are a dead giveaway ahahhahah: Alcoa Wheels I wonder if the chevy pattern would fit the nissans

you could take the fender off and pound out the dent with a hammer and piece of wood against the inside to at least get it somewhat straight again. that rear one will be a little tricky to get at from the inside. using the pull hammer on the rear is probably a better idea. I also hear that dry ice can remove small dents

i always loved the older (70-80) g-wagens. If i wanted to buy a more capable wheeler, it would definitely be one of those :cool2: check out the ones they hook up the canadian army with:

Sound clip of my truck Here is a sound clip of my truck. it was taken with a cellphone so it's not the greatest quality, but you get the idea. I have thorley headers, magnaflow cat, flowmaster 50 connected with 2.5" pipe. username: npora p-word: npora

yeah, mine gets too distorted when i turn it up to 20

88pathoffroad has something along the lines of that strapped to the front of his truck. I think is is specially for sand and loose dirt. it's like a 4' long bar that you can pound or screw into the ground and hook your winch to it. It doesn't dig very far into the soil and that thing looks deadly if it ever suddenly ripped loose from it's anchoring

you'll have to remove the bezel first, then there should be some screws (maybe 4) that hold the radio on the bulkhead. As soon as those are out, you should be able to slide the old radio out and unplug it from the harness. There should be a silver 'cage' that holds the factory radio in and should be separated from the radio by holding some spring-loaded clips open and sliding it off the radio. The new radio should slide into the same cage and may use small screws to secure it to the cage. You may also need to purchase a harness to plug into your new deck to connect it to the factory wiring system, but don't run out and buy one just yet. Here's where it gets funky... If your factory stereo came with amplifiers, you're going to need to bypass them. The new radio you have will more than likely be too powerful to send the signal through the amps. You can either rip out all the old wires and run new ones from the deck, or you can splice into the existing wiring to bypass the old amplifiers. Since my truck had factory amps and I was in a hurry, i took it down to future shop and let one of the kids do the splicing for me for about $40. I don't know what you'll need to do if your car doesn't have factory amps. someone else is going to have to chime in about that. You might need to use a harness if you don't have the factory amps but i'm not %100 on that. Once the amp has been bypassed, you can remove it from the truck (they should be located behind the rear seats, bolted to some brackets on the passenger side over the rear wheel. You have to take the interior molding off to get at them. As for the speaker power, I have no idea. I can't turn my radio all the way up without blowing them (I have a 60x4 radio) but it gets decently loud. If you wanted to swap out the speakers, there are all sorts of threads in this site that dictate what size speakers will fit where.

you'll have to use a multi or volt meter to see if there is a voltage spike. Put one probe on the terminal for the fuse and ground the other probe or put it on the other side of the contact for the fuse. Turn on the blinkers and see how much juice is flowing through the circuit, then turn them off and see if there is still a current going through the circuit. If you are seeing a voltage spike, you'll need to find out where the short is by working your way back to the power source. Sometimes there is another component on the same circuit that is causing the short (like a bad switch). What other lights etc. are running off the blinker circuit? I had a short circuit problem and traced it to my broken 4wd indicator light switch grounding out on the transfer case and that's kind of how i discovered what the problem was.

sounds like you have a short somewhere in the circuit that runs the blinkers. Does the new fuse blow as soon as you turn on your blinkers or hazards?

i believe the manufacturer of my kit was transadapt. I mounted mine on the top of the wheel well. Do a search for oil filter relocation and my thread will come up. Many others have posted their installs too. I can't recall if anyone had put on on an R50. maybe maxstryker, but it seems he's more concerned with taking stuff off his truck

yes, i thought that's what was wrong with my friend's boat, only the belt was slipping on the pulley. It sucks when you're out on the middle of a lake.... unless you carry a spare battery

have you checked the tension on your alternator belt?

230 000 kms today which works out to about 145 000 miles.

synth costs twice as much as regular oil, but I don't think it protects your engine twice as good as regular oil. I'll stick with the plain kind until the price on synth comes down. I've never had a problem with my oil and sometimes i leave it in there for 4k miles.

yup

i troll the classified ads on the message boards for most of my parts. It's pretty rare that I buy anything brand new from and online store

you should be able to find the coils new from a jeep dealership. It will be the most expensive place to buy them. If you can find them in the junkyard, that will the cheapest place. They only modifying you need to do is cut the last 3/4 of the top coil off with a grinder and cutting disc, or you can heat it up with a torch and bend it into shape. 88pathoffroad has a sticky in the garage tech section about this. you will probably wan to get some new isolators that fit on top of the coil in between the spring seat on the underside of the body. If you search for my name and lift kit, you will find the thread I started about my lift kit. There is a better explanation of the coil spring isolators in there.

yeah too bad i didn't live closer, i'd come over and help you grind

have you seen some of the other member's frame repairs? i can dig up some threads to give you an idea what you can do

yeah that would probably do it. how does the top of the frame look? is there still enough metal up there? Seeing the back of the frame makes me wonder what the front looks like just behind the footwell. where in ontario are you?

and i thought my rust was bad jeez. It might be a better idea to just grab a grinder wheel and cut the whole side of the frame out on either side of your panhard rod mount. Unless ofcourse you plan on just sticking the new plate right overtop of the old stuff. Either way, it doesn't look like there's much existing metal to weld to.

leave the ecu tuning until after you do headers, intake and cams. It probably won't make a noticable difference until you add those parts. here's a cheap muffler. It took me about 30 seconds to find it. 50 series on ebay that's still too expensive for a cat. I paid less than that for mine in canada no less. here's a cheaper on. again it took me about 30 seconds to find it. Magnaflow cat on ebay If you ever want to cut through the bullsh!t that shops throw at you, call them instead of going in to see them and tell them to beat/match prices with local competitors. Just make sure you end up going to a reputable place. Most exhaust shops shouldn't have a problem with you bringing in your own parts. If they do, tell them you'll find someone else to do it for you. You need to remind them that they're the ones that need your business; not the other way around. I don't have a problem with it but others might tell you to check your tone. Especially for a new user that hasn't contributed anything to the community. Read first, then open your mouth.