Citron

I would call it the steering shaft lower u joint. You should be able to get it at an auto parts store, or go online to one of the Nissan parts places like courtesy Nissan or nissanparts.cc so you can see a parts diagram.

If it is bad enough that it was binding, then yes.

It will be nice to see the completed project, and I like your CAD work. I believe that piece is to improve the aerodynamics of the electrons from the steering column so you have better force feedback. Why in the world do you want to go to Seattle? My advice is to drive through without stopping. I am really struggling trying not to say something political.

No offense meant, it just doesn't hurt in weird cases like this to think of all the possibilities.

Rf600 has a good point. About the only things that are common to all of the issues you are having is the fusible links by the battery and the ignition cylinder.

Carbed vg30e correct? Could it be possible that your cam lobes are flat so the valves aren't opening? I don't know why that would happen suddenly. Are you sure fuel is getting to the cylinders? Are the plugs wet like it's flooding? The only thing I can think of is that the fuel isn't reaching the cylinder. Did you have rags in the intake runners at any point in the rebuild and forget to remove them? That or valves not opening. This is a weird one.

In North America.

Factory GM back in the day. It took GM awhile to figure out that one key could do both.

Beautiful country. Nice pics.

Fuse links are different from fuses. Fusible links are short pieces of wire that act as a fuse, they are designed to melt when over loaded to save the rest of the system. There are fusible links in the wires by the battery.

Finished the body lift. Finally had a dry day. Lines are extended and everything is torqued.

Yeah I already have an efan on, so I was really just going to do it cause I had it. Sounds like too much work to be worth it. Where does the relocation kit relocate the filter to?

I did a two inch lift, the upper hose is a little stretched, and the lower a little deformed, but both look like they would pass plenty of coolant. I am thinking about leaving them as is for now. When I have more time I might drain the coolant and trim the lower hose and rotate the upper. I was going to drop it simply because the drop kit came with the kit I bought. But I like the idea of less work.

Everything on every vehicle newer than 1990 will fight you. There just isn't enough room like vehicles from the 70s. I spent nearly 6 hours replacing a tranny cooler line on an 07 Jeep Grand Cherokee one time. Had to drop the first section of exhaust to get enough room. Spent about an hour trying to remove the electrical connection for the engine temp sensor on the back of the block of an 02 V8 passat. I could give you lots of other examples, but the point is that this is the nature of working on vehicles, they will fight you. Don't get discouraged, if nothing else it will build character 😀

Control arm is out, but the ball joint is still in the knuckle? Normally when the control arm has tension on it you can smack the knuckle with a hammer where the ball joint goes in to dislodge it. Since you are replacing the ball joint anyway, use a pickle fork. They make ones for use with an air hammer, and ones for a normal hammer. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4559-Manual-Pneumatic-Pickle/dp/B000F5HUTO This one does both. It will destroy the joint boot, so only use them if your not trying to save the joint.

Very nice.

Got half of the body lift installed. Just need to reattach everything, tighten everything, and drop the radiator.

Pressure washed the under carriage and sprayed the body mount bolts with kroil in preparation for installing a body lift tomorrow.

Thanks for the link Red, I have actually had that thread open on my phone for a couple of weeks now. Great minds think alike 😀. Only read the first page though, so maybe someone covered my question in later pages. Thanks RC. When I broke the chunk out of the first one, I decided to stop and make sure I was doing things correctly. I figured they would need to come off. I pressure washed the under carriage today and sprayed some kroil on the bolts, will start the lift tomorrow. I bought a 2" lift from Macrow a few weeks ago.

Do the black plastic plugs in the floor pan need to come off for a body lift? If so, how do you get them off? I tried popping one off but cracked it. Are they retained by the head of the bolt or something? Also, they seem to have some sort of paper gasket around them.

Awesome link.

They have closed most of the roads though. When a road gets blocked or washes out, they just close it instead of repair. Kind of a de facto roadless area. From what I have heard, the ranger in charge of a district has incredible leeway in how the district is operated. If I can get connected with a group, it might be worth checking into the volunteer opportunities, may help keep some of the roads from closing.

Interesting direction the previous owner was going with it. A super sport Pathfinder with racing stripes, must have a 396 in it. I like your idea, will like to see this come together. Going to go SAS or drop down the IFS?

If only the light went out then the seat should still get hot right? Did you check the heater element for continuity?

I have been looking at the general grabber X3, but my pathy is not a DD.