hawairish

This is one of those things that, if buying new from the dealership, may be difficult to find, or prohibitively expensive. You may be better off scouring the junk yard, clipping off what you can, and patiently splicing things back together. However, I suggest you go to parts.nissanusa.com, put your VIN in, and check out the Body Electrical [E] - Wiring [240] section. I took a guess on some details about your 90 XE, and the engine sub harness p/n is there (not sure if there were variations, so I'd rather not post the p/n I saw). It also looks like there are repair harnesses for the relays that may be very useful for you. The FSM usually adds a lot more detail about this stuff, but judging by what's available at NICO, I'm not sure if the older FSMs had that level of detail for wiring.

Magic, my friend. Magic. Or physics. You have a stock spring and a lift spring that's, say, 1" taller and has a higher spring rate than a stock spring. Compress both to the same height...which is going to resist compression more? More resistance, more lift. Why the same height? Because the spring is restricted in length by the strut because it installs on it. (That is, until the strut nut goes flying off violently.)

That's good, and not trying to deter you, just making sure you know what you're getting into. There is no "kit" for us...frankenstein rigs, man. And of course, if you were to consider an SAS, there's definitely no point without first converting it to 4wd. Though, this projects seems to be more for you than your wife (and it's all good ). Though there's not much for you to fab, except the SFD spacers and maybe the rear coil mounts/buckets.

You could ask that one guy about his 12" SFD... Just to put things into perspective, you're asking about the most expensive lift option we've got, short of doing an SAS or anything custom, and is possibly more unsafe given all the parts it introduces to the vehicle. Budget unknown and "cheap" being a relative term, we're talking maybe $1.5-$2K just to get the "look" you're wanting. Many guys won't even spend on their 4wd truck, especially since that's about 40% of its worth. That's the SFD, lift spacers and/or springs, longer shocks, larger tires (and probably wider rims), supplemental items (hardware, replacement items, and all sorts of "while you're at it" things)...many of which make it as "safe as possible". If you can't install it yourself, then that's another cost. Don't forget that none of this will be friendly on the fuel economy, and performance will decrease. I've lifted a 2wd truck before; I get it. Just pointing out the reality of your quest, in case it wasn't already clear. Have you considered just buying the gal a diamond bracelet and some roses? Helluva lot cheaper!

The springs can be installed on any strut; the strut length doesn't change. The spring will be compressed over the same distance, and it will stiffen the ride.

I'm actually surprised to see a rim that would be that much thicker than stock (unless you're talking stock steelies?). The stock aluminum wheel flanges are already pretty thick. Keep in mind, too, that those general dimensions are just some easy-to-find options. There are a few others; I suggest checking out the Dorman catalog (linked on that post). You might need to change thread pitch and get new nuts to get the length you want. Another option is to bore out the stud holes a tiny bit. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that if you lengthen your studs, you may prevent other wheels from fitting on the truck, including your spare unless you upgrade that too or carry around a thick wheel spacer. In either case, unless these wheels are must-haves, I'd honestly be considering another wheel by now.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39147-longer-wheel-stud-options/

Yeah, probably some BT issues. In general, I've never had problems with BT and iOS (I use it on three car stereos and a portable speaker), but the protocol doesn't support more than one devices simultaneously. As for the temperature, I think it's vehicle dependent. In looking the list on my app, I don't see anything along...but then again, the list of PIDs seems to be very generic. I finally have an Android tablet, so maybe I'll give Torque a chance.

Can't help specifically with the BT+Torque question (I use wifi+DashCommand on iOS), but when I was looking for a suitable adapter, my experience is that wifi is a much easier protocol to work with. I use a VGate iCar2 adapter and have not had any problems with it. It comes in both wifi and BT flavors, and I believe it had some pretty good reviews for different devices and apps. The reasons I went with wifi: 1. I use BT to stream to my radio and for handsfree. With wifi, I can connect to both without interrupting anything. However, since it's a wifi connection without internet access, I can't use other apps that need internet connections. 2. I have a garage computer with a 2nd wifi adapter and the DashCommand windows application, so I can use my computer to diagnose my vehicles wirelessly. Yes, BT can do this, but again, wifi is a far simpler protocol to work with. As for the transmission temp, do you have a PID for it (I think that's what it's called)? That's one thing I've been wanting to monitor, but none of the PIDs I've tried return any data.

Good thinking, but torque is what matters here. For the 3.5L, max torque is 265 ft-lbs at 3200 RPM. But I'm sure this isn't a factor in the shift logic by the TCM, instead all the load calculations. I had actually started checking the FSM to see if the TCM could be reset, for whatever it might be worth. Didn't see anything along those lines.

So after taking a long road trip last week, I think I officially hate our transmission. It's way too sensitive under load. By load, I mean that the ECU calculates load as a percentage (observed using a OBDII adapter and iOS app while driving) based on vehicle speed and throttle position, and surely other factors. But even under very minimal throttle, enough headwind caused loads to peak, shooting revs up to 4K+ at times...and staying there. If it'd had just stayed in a higher gear, I have no doubt it would've been far better off at 3K rpm than 4K. Granted, I had severe headwinds at times, constantly around 20mph (25-40mph gusts), but I also had a lot of problems getting it to downshift appropriately when wind was less of the factor. I feel the transmission is still very healthy, but the TCM (trans computer module) must really be in a safe mode of some sort. Major performance robber...I only got about 10 mpg over about 900 miles. Starting to wonder what our options might be for getting transmission with more speeds from maybe an FX35. Would be awesome to know if they bolted up.

More like, what did my Pathfinder do for me...we just completed a 2500-mile round-trip from Phoenix to Oklahoma City via Fort Worth over the past week with no issues whatsoever. Mileage ranged from 10mpg to 20mpg. The 10mpg was my entire drive home, FW to PHX...25-40mph headwinds 95% of the drive while towing a small trailer. Talk about suck. I officially hate our transmission...not enough gears, and too sensitive. Had to drive without cruise control the entire drive home to keep the transmission from constantly downshifting under the load (from the wind, the trailer wasn't very heavy). I'm seriously thinking about a V8 swap with better transmission. But, the truck was a trooper. The highlight of the trip may have been catching a CB conversation where some guy was talking about "rectal bacteria" getting in people's ears when they use their cell phones in the restroom. Interesting!

Yeah, the spacer just fits over the nylock loosely (it helps center it up, though)...nothing secures the two together, except when the bumpstop is threaded onto the vehicle and sandwiches the spacer.

Duct tape!

I just used a box-end wrench on the head of the bolt and let it wedge against part of the chassis as I took a breaker bar to the nut. It took a little bit of turning to get the wrench to wedge against something.

Try courtesyparts.com or parts.nissanusa.com. Just enter your vehicle and check out the Body section for Front Door and Window parts.

I paid about $150/ea for the pair I found in town. That included the complete carrier and all the latching hardware that mounts to the chassis (there are 3 of them...be sure to get those!). The offset license plate holder and wiring probably another $50...but note that the rear hatches between older and newer R50s are slightly different, so the license holder is body-style specific.

Ha, and that's not even everything you need. The remaining parts, if new, are several hundred more...and much if it is actually no longer available in the US. A couple parts I needed came from Japan.

Lube it? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40922-rear-passenger-door-wont-open-on-my-98-pathy

Full gas tank? Different sized tires? Different tire pressures? All springs seated properly? (Perches are notched for the spring ends) Upper strut spring perch clocked properly? Any missing/damaged spring isolators? Do you have rubber bushings or poly? (Poly can be torqued whenever, rubber must be torqued on the ground.)

These Febest ones are OE for $27/ea US: http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Nissan-Bumper-Spring-55240-0W010/dp/B00C6MTQIW. 55240-0W010 is the Nissan p/n...they run about about $50 from Courtesy Parts. I want to say it was a 10mm head...I probably still have the bolts laying around somewhere to confirm. You'll find that the Energy set you ordered are a bit narrower at the base by about an inch, and also shorter than stock by about the same. I was going to install the exact pair on my buddy's R50 when we did his SFD, except with 2"D x 3"H spacers. I wasn't a big fan of this setup for a few reasons, but it was cheaper than OE (I discovered the Febest ones later), and we end up going a different direction anyway for his AirLift 1000s. Also, the hole in the center of the ES ones is pretty large, so plan on using washers. The ES actually felt firmer than the OE ones, though.

Yep, check this. It's actually integrated into the latching mechanism...just a simple plunger. You can test it wth the hatch open just by sliding a screwdriver into the latch...as if to replicate the latching action when it hits the striker.

Actually, the hole in the spacer was a bit oversized (5/8"?), but that's where the nylock comes in. I used the nylock to attach the bolt to the OE bumpstop...this allowed installing the bumpstop onto the truck by hand (getting a socket inside the rubber was kind of a pain), and also centered up the bumpstop when installed. I used an 8mm x 1.25 x 70mm tap bolt and corresponding nylock...45mm-50mm should be fine for a 1" spacer.

I used body lift spacers (3"W x 2"H p/n BB02) and 50mm longer hardware on mine (and some nylocks to simplify installation). TownDawg's PO apparently put JK bumpstops on...probably bored out the hole and tapped it. I while back, I took some measurements on a 96-ish Toyota 4Runner, and it looks like those would be a perfect fit, too...I'd have to dig up my notes, but IIRC, the bolt used and style was practically identical.

Hey PrecisionX, sorry didn't make it to the JY over the weekend, but it's still on my radar.