hawairish

That's what I found odd...there were times when starting to go downhill (say, right after peaking on an uphill climb), that the RPMs would still stay high, even at low throttle. It's as if just by maintaining some throttle (very little, albeit), it just didn't want to shift. I actually cleaned my TB a few months ago when having some idling issues, as well as it stalling once the engine was warmed up. I got all that sorted, though. I do have a scanner setup (described previously) that I usually keep up and running when driving on longer trips. In fact, the first 7500 ft elevation climb the other month was really the first extended drive I've taken in the truck, so I had general concerns about the trip and was watching the readouts constantly. All seemed fine, though. Mine also didn't come with a cooler, so I've been thinking about adding one for safe measure, at minimum to offset whatever extended use the higher RPMs have been doing to it.

Yeah, there's definitely a delay on mine no matter how I spin it, except if I'm off the throttle. I don't mind having the power/efficiency when I need it, but once the objective is met (getting up the hill, or getting back to cruising speed), that's when I want it to subside. Any other AT I've driven has been fine in this regard...but perhaps it's a 4-speed vs 6-speed transmission thing.

Ha...I got mixed up because of the broken apart threads...I thought you had changed speakers and headunit, but kept the amp. Not a big deal to keep the posts together, but it you want more comprehensive answers, it's best to keep them all together so that details aren't getting missed (case in point here). But yes, the radio would not affect impedance seen by the amp from the speakers. Changing the radio would change the line-level signal going to the amp (that's what that Scosche unit corrects). Did you end up using aftermarket wiring harnesses to connect to the speakers? Are the polarities correct? The harness connectors to the speaker may only have fit one speaker tab, but that doesn't mean they're connected to the factory wiring correctly at the plug.

Well, I have lift and larger tires, but I've also re-geared. Stock is 255/65/16 (29") with 4.363, but I bought it with 245/75/16 (30.6") and 4.363. This is about a 5% increase in load over stock. Never drove it stock, but also never did any hilly highway driving, so no baseline. Changed gears to 4.636 on the same tires, which is about a 1% decrease in load over stock. My experience is from a pair of trips to/from 7500 ft, as well as Saturday morning on lower-grade short climbs between 1K and 2K ft in elevation. This should have made slight grades a tiny bit easier at low RPMs. On Saturday night, went to 265/75/16 (31.6"), which is about 2% increase in load over stock. Did the return drive from the morning, pretty much same experience. So really, I'm not too far off from stock load, even with larger tires. But I think the throttle position and load is probably the best answer. But man, I was barely even touching the throttle...any less and I was off it. I have a wifi OBDII dongle and the DashCommand app, and I was watching both throttle percentage and load, and it just didn't seem reasonable for it to be revving that high. Plus, I'm not sure the load value corresponded with a mechanical load. That's what I found myself doing, actually, but with varying results. Sometimes I could get it to drop down a little sooner than normal by switching OD, but for the most part still needed to completely let off the gas and coast a bit before giving it throttle again. But usually, this would still rev a little high (lower than 3500) before dropping back to cruising RPM. I'm sure there are a number of factors that play into this, though. But it's already sounding like this is normal...

Lately I've been taking a few longer highway trips with the truck, and my transmission has been keeping higher RPMs under certain uphill conditions that seem odd to me. I'm trying gauge whether my observations are normal. For starters, this is the first AT I've owned personally. Always an MT guy. But over the years, I've also driven about a hundred or so various AT cars (business travels), so I'm no stranger to different vehicles and transmission types, but what I'm experiencing seems more reminiscent of a CVT, and I'm not okay with that. So here's what's happening... At 65-75 (speed limit here is 75), I can keep my RPMs between 2500 and 3000 on flat surface. When I start an incline and if I'm attempting to maintain speed (manually or with cruise control), it downshifts and revs to about 3500-4000, which is not entirely unexpected. The problem is that once the road starts to level off, it doesn't upshift and return to a lower RPM unless I completely back off the throttle or cancel cruise. Even then, I sometimes have to very very gently touch the throttle to avoid it spiking to a high RPM again. It seems too sensitive to some load, mechanical or throttle, but at that point, I can't see how there's additional load. Most of the time, I am deliberately trying to keeping RPMs down by going 5-15 mph slower on inclines. I'm certainly not gunning it uphill. If I've got cruise control on, it just stays at a higher RPM for longer than I feel is necessary, so I've been canceling it. I feel I could make it up the hill at a lower speed and RPM, if it would just let me. So I believe the problem is that I can't get it to just stay in overdrive (or return to OD when I think it should) at low throttle response. I don't know if that's a problem per se, or just normal. Everything else about the transmission feels excellent, though I honestly feel like the throttle is just too sensitive. Over the weekend while off-roading, I had a similar observation...while in 4L, it just seem to surge more than I expected. Perhaps it's just the shear brute of the VQ? Any suggestions?

Did you install something like the Scosche OEA-4? It's intended to interface aftermarket radios to the factory amp to avoid your volume issue. That's what I use with the Bose system and I don't have any problems. And I agree with Kingman...keep the posts together please.

Yep, no need to remove them, just rest them on the LCAs and they'll be out of the way enough. Unbolt them from the brackets, and you can lower it down. There's also a breather tube attached up top to disconnect, and that's about it.

Cool. Are the upper sleeves wide enough for the mount, or did you need some washers/spacers?

Leave them in. You won't be able to remove the diff with the brackets attached...they won't clear the LCAs.

10-4. Also, can you edit my previous thread to change Steve's website link to "4x4design.com" (design, singular)?

B: Since my comment after the picture adds nothing to this thread, please feel free to edit it out. Perhaps we should strip/lock down this thread and focus on the answers that best address the OP's question: The four sources for strut spacers that I'm aware of, and the material they use, are (in no particular order): NX4 Industries (nx4industries.com), ONT(?), CAN: billet aluminum Steve (4x4design.com, "Fleurys" on NPORA, "fleurys2" on eBay), QC, CAN: high-density polyethylene (HDPE) Automotive Customizers (4x4parts.com), FL, US: billet aluminum (these appear to be the NX4 spacers) Jeff ("Liftmaker" on NPORA, "hoepkers" on eBay), IL, US: cast urethane (PM him for different sizes/prices) There's also a used 1" aluminum set on eBay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131609827276

I've hinted at it before, but it's clear now: you don't know what you're doing.

Haha, if I had that option, I'd mount it a little higher for the tailgaters to see.

Haha, well...I guess that's the best part: I'm not. I came across the Midland 75-822 earlier today. Handheld and mobile CB in one unit. You just swap the battery pack with an included DC adapter that breaks out into a 12V socket and antenna socket. I just need to run the antenna cable to the center console and boom: installed. Though, I suppose I need to figure out where to hang it. The unit really seems like the best of all worlds for my needs, and comes with plenty of accessories for the buck. I may even pick up an extra magnetic antenna for putting on the other vehicle for some upcoming road trips.

Hahaha...no comment! Actually, that seems to be a good way to use the space. I've seen similar setups, and after staring at my interior for seeming 30 mins today trying to figure out where to mount a CB, I pictured it with some holes.

Yep, looks like it's still going.

Uhhh...no panhard bar? A little extra sway on the drive? Did it rust off or something? Seems worth a shot since you have the driveshafts laying around. Planning to flip this vehicle or something?

One idea I've been tossing around for a buddy's setup is to drop in a fuel cell into that area as an extended range tank. Making it more trunk-like would be great, though.

No sweat! But wait, there's more... I just remembered this post from Fleurys. Before disassembling things, take a look at the snap rings. He notes inner vs. outer rings for automatic vs manual (respectively). Plus, he provides the part numbers for aftermarket u-joints. ...and despite Courtesy selling 37126-VB925 for $66/ea (wtf?!), the NEAPCO units Fleurys went with are going for $3/each(!!) on RockAuto.com, fronts and rears! Plus some other cheap options...I'd say if you're going to remove that yoke, may as well replace the u-joints.

joluma09, for $400 (or less with some bargaining?), it'd might be worth it to find out. Sounds like it needs some custom work for the transmission crossmember, but not an extensive amount of custom work. Here's an old old post from a guy who did it once. It's kind of funny reading it now considering the guy asking "What's SAS?" and "What's IFS?" a decade ago is the guy who's running his own company that sells Nissan parts, including a SAS kit.

Judging by the parts options listed at CourtesyParts.com for the R50, there is a different driveshaft for the all-mode t-cases versions than the part-time t-cases. Since all the QX4s had all-mode (right?), I presume it used the same all-mode driveshaft. However, if the difference is just the yoke, it wouldn't surprise me if you could just swap that to the D21 driveshaft. The p/n for the u-joint is 37126-VB925 (old p/n is 37126-C9425), and that appears to be used on just about every Nissan truck/SUV driveshaft pre-2004 (per NissanParts.cc results). Of course, if the u-joint is the problem...well, there's your p/n.

You can just buy the speaker wire adapters on eBay. Few bucks per pair.

Yep, that's them...the Reflex line. However, I don't really recommend them...they do ride a little rough unloaded (though...loaded up, they seem to do well). Quality seems questionable, though. I had to replace one under warranty before I ever installed it...when trying to press one of the bushings out, it hit against my workbench and something inside started rattling. I compared the compression and rebound to the other shock, and it was noticeably easier to compress and slower to rebound. If that's what it took to dislodge something, not sure how trail-worthy they really are. I only bought them for as cheap option, since I was still exploring some other rear suspension options at the time. I paid about $30/ea from Rock Auto...they're still that amount, but with CAN shipping, not sure. Also, the 33-185569 Bilstein above has extended length of 29.7", not 29"...typo on my part. This is probably what I'll go with eventually.

Well, I won't revive my opinion on that topic, but they are owned by the same company.

And just to note...those part numbers are more for answering CDN_S4's question about having that much rear lift. And about the bushings...I'm not exactly sure what pieces come with the Bilstein shocks. From their description, both eyelets are 5/8", which is a good 16mm equivalent for the lower mount. The upper mount is 12mm, so a suitable sleeve would need to be used (or upgrade to a 16mm bolt)...not sure if the the sleeve is included, but I see some sleeves in the pic at their website. I also wouldn't be surprised if you need to use some thick washers to fill gaps on the sides of the bushings if they're too narrow. I'm using some extra thick washers on my setup, top and bottom.