Mr. Pickles

That and a fake carbon fiber rear wing, and you'd be set.

I just did the cleaning/recharge on mine, and if I remember right, the kit was $9.99. And yup, the filter is in the mid-upper $40's.

Shouldn't you stop and go a few feet in reverse anyways with the auto hubs to get them to release out of 4wd back to 2wd?

Yup, those end up being resistors you could pick up for a few cents at Radio Shack.

With most of the NOS systems, isn't it true that they only kick in at wide open throttle? That would mean it would be used about what, 1% of the time, when you're street racing your Pathy against a Mustang? Wonder what, if anything, it would do to the electronics and tuning.

I'm thinking you'd do chalk and drive striaght anywhere from a few feet to a few blocks. Just enough to get it to start to wear off.

Pretty pictures. I'd like to add that no, don't worry fellow drivers, I won't be messing with this unless absolutely necessary.

Pics, pics, we LOVE pics. -alcohol-

TBI, close enough. You know what I mean.

I'm just trying to reach a concise point of how far is too far. With my bars cranked, I'm coming at 35" ground to fender flare. Haven't measured without the flare though. It was at 33" before the new bars. Mind you, this was on old sagging bars with 130K miles. So I'm thinking a 2" jump with the new bars is not unreasonable. As it sits now, with low pressure in my air shocks and the initial sag of the 3 month old bars, its about 33" all around to ground from the fender flare. The Jeep GC springs (minus a coil or so) should jump 2" or so with my 4 door, spare tire carrier, etc. I'm trying to stay close to level and relatively safe on the wear factor, and I'm thinking that between getting the front back up to 35" and replacing the sagging stock rear springs with the Jeeps, I should be in decent shape.

Not Forditis. The superchargers are not make by Ford, but made by Eaton if I remember right. Check this out. They were 3.8 Fords, in Tbirds, cheap Mustangs, etc. Wonder what it would take to fit a Pathy... Tons of work, I'm sure.

Or somebody get creative at repurposing some surplus superchargers, STAT. I know there are a lot of leftovers laying around from *gag* Ford Tbird SuperCoupes and such. Very, very fun car, by the way. Kills Mustangs and even old Vettes. Until it breaks.

Better grab a patent quick. Something along these lines would be appreciated (for a reasonable price) by those of us with older trucks. That thin thing from the factory could go bye bye with any decent rock hit.

Of course there are the obvious things, like 2 doors vs 4, carb vs. FI. I was cruising around the boneyard yesterday and found myself wondering if anyone has discovered any BIG differences between the model years that would affect a person who is, say shopping for front suspension components. I know this is a huge topic to cover, and maybe in need of a sticky in the long run if people are interested. This is also probably of importance to any new owners. Basically, are there any red (or green) lights as far as what is compatible between the major years/models, especially the oder body-on-frame trucks?

Pandora's Box is is more like it then. I expect a write up, of course. :type:

I see. Seems how I already have a nice habit going of breaking things, I think I'll stick with my auto's for now. I haven't had any problems with them yet.

Ok, that's what I thought. For a nice graphic, since my T bars have sagged, and they had a fresh alignment after cranking, the front tires VISUALLY appear to be more like \ / which I don't imagine is a good thing regardless. They're about 1 1/2 lower on the passenger side, and 2 lower on the driver's side, than when I initially cranked them. Probably not the brightest thing to do to crank them freshly installed and right out of the box, huh? At least I know the measurements of where they should be at good alignment, so hopefully I can skip having it done again. Plus, that will give me just about prefect height with the new springs since the rear is riding level and more on the air shocks for height than the springs at this piont.

Nice touch. People on board definately makes a difference. I've hit probably 100 or so, maybe a tad more. Not sure on the accuracy of the speedo, although it came with 31's. Buried the speedo (100mph) and had maybe a few to go, but I was getting trouble from the Ms.

Dammn spiffy looking. So we're looking as some porting out and such. Looking really sharp under the hood regardless.

What goes into that, by the way? Replacing gears, lubing, etc.? I've never really messed around with suspension or steering much.

Does running with the hubs locked but out of 4wd pose any wear issues to anything? I'm talking about many miles driven Also, can you shift in on the fly at all? I ask because I ski often up at Crystal Mt., WA and you never really know where the snow will start. Could be anywhere in about a 20-30 mile area really. And often there is nowhere to safely pull over.

Team Meow in effect. Don't even know entirely what I'm looking at in the way of carb (?) at as mine is fuel injected. But go team go.

Ok, I know they're needed to preserve the steering geometry and such when lifting the front suspension. Its pretty straight forward that the stock setup gets out of whack after too much tweaking. My question is, do they push the upper control arm out or in, causing the top of the tire to do the same in relation to the bottom? The ball joint spacers from AC look almost like they're made out of rubber. I'm trying to grasp what happens the geometry, basically. My T bars have sagged some since I first cranked them when they were new, and I want to crank them back up along with the Jeep spring install, but I'm trying to get it all in focus so I know at what point I need to stop and go looking for new components. Also, this goes out to people with more of a fabrication background. Would it be possible for you to solve the issue of maxing out the lift of the T bars when the front end reaches the limit against the bump stops? Something in the way of a more arched shape or something for the control arm to allow more clearance? Ok, breath. Enough questions for 1 post. Guys, don't kill me.

Very pimp. Wish I had a welder and garage. And what would you be selling these for, keeping in mind your time and all? :bow:

Of course, if we're getting into locksmiths, any decent (and probably old-skool) locksmith would probably one charge like $20-40 to solve your problems.