Mr. Pickles

That's sweet, mudfinder! Nice and basic but burly, that's about what I want. Maybe you guys will see a chrome bumper on here for sale some day... I want toys!

Nice red X, the Ebay link isn't done right. Oops.

That's what I'm saying, the new ones have that but the old ones don't.

Pics are ok if you want. I can see how they're on there, how they unscrew, etc. I think I just got a set that are a tad too "universal", so its improvisation time. You can't always luck out I guess.

I'd say just to force you to take it in and keep their techs busy. Tried changing the filter on a Chevy "Malibu"- I still refuse to accept that they named it that, such a disgrace. Its external just like any normal filter, but you need a certain GM fuel filter tool to do it, or basically mangle it trying to get it out. What a joke. They're just trying to keep themselves in business.

Um, I don't have an auto, so I could be up a tree, but 3500 seems perfectly fine to be shifting at, especially if your putting any gas to it.

Yes, that was including new clutch, throw out bearing, all the fun parts and stuff.

Its not the rear glass, its the ones for the whole hatch. Well, guess I'm gonna try the hammer route then. The new ones just clip on and are super easy to work with. They're the same length and all, so hopefully I'll be able to get the ball portion out without damage. I bought the suckers off ebay, so returning isn't worth the effort or hassle for the price I paid. Thanks guys!

Once you unscrew them, how would you remove the ball. I imagine a hammer could be in order since the old ones are shot, but there's gotta be a "normal" way. The new ones clip on, but do not come with new ball portions.

Mine is about here too, and I just have a stock fan set-up.

Don't take it in to the shop! The simple cranking is just that: simple. Look at this from the old site, MrJim.net.

Does anybody know how to remove the stock ones? They have a ball/socket type joint, and the thing doesn't seem to want to come apart. The aftermarket replacement ones I got have metal clips that fasten each side to hold it on the ball portion, but the stock ones are solid. Do I need to pry harder, or actually unbolt the ball thing from the truck?

That's what I thought. Couldn't get in today (work bs :furious: ) but hopefully tomorrow. I've heard good things about the shop, and they say they warranty it for life. We'll see about that... sly . Anyways, I'll let the locals know how it turns out.

Looks like I'm taking the Pathy in tonight to Central Automotive. The clutch is making more noise than ever, and its summer driving season so I don't want to take a chance. They're quoting $450 for the full deal. Sounds better than the $1000 or so I've heard.

I think its pretty much a general rule that you'd have to change exhaust to a more freer flowing system at the same time as adding the intake to get any real benefit of more power. In one end, out the other, as they say.

Have you cranked and/or reindexed your stock Tbars yet? If not, try that route before dropping the money for new ones.

Could this be what you're talking about? The pulley discussion happened a few months ago.

Um, is your Chilton's a combined manual for both Hardbody pickups and Pathfinders? To my knowledge, Hardbody's had the leaf spring set-up but Pathy's used only coil spring suspension, as 88Path and others have said.

If I remember right, I think there are already holes in the frame on both sides in front to mount facotry hooks on either or both sides.

This is partly touched on in the main site's FAQ's here. I run 10w30 cause the locals say its a good middle of the road oil for our mild climate in the NW. So you'd think 10w40 would be better for your hot climate.

You mean pay out several hundred, then 1/2 again that price for chrome, all to have it promptly stolen off the front of my truck cause its so rare? The point being, you wouldn't think it would be that big of a deal to offer as an option. They do it on every other truck, it seems.

I'd say if you have the power, proper hitch/reciever set-up, and heavy suspension, upgraded brakes and/or trailer brakes, etc., you probably could go a bit over the stock specs. But there comes a point where the overall strength of the truck, length/wheelbase, stability, brakes, etc., all come together to make it unsafe to pull any more. You're Pathy will never be a Dodge Cummins/Durmax Chevy/F*rd Stroker in pulling ability.

I just came across it on the AC site. Any opinions? Has anyone tried it? Probably not worth it I imagine, but just wondering if there's any takers out there. Power Control Module

And good luck taking that Dodge through a drivethrough or a parking garage. I rode passenger in my dad's 2500 and had to climb out the door to lift the sign hanging on chains over the exit so we could get out.

I like Mudfinder's, if only it was chrome. Somebody, please, SOMEBODY! We need chrome for those of us with the chrome packages who don't want to look like dorks mixing the 2! :help: