Mr. Pickles

Yep and nope. Haven't touched the one going to the fender. I've been thinking about using a larger pipe there with a Y going to both the fender and straight ahead. Then putting a threaded end behind the headlight so I can cap it when going off road.

Naw, I used a different rubber hose type thing lying around and clamped it onto the hole that the plastic pipe you're talking about mounted to. Didn't have to plug anything up.

I've been thinking about putting some reflective heat tape around the box too. Wonder if that would help keep the incoming air cool. Probably not, but it'll bug me till I try it. :idea:

Exactly, that's what I was trying to describe. I used that to run directly behind the headlight.

I just spliced into the parking lights for a new power lead, and used it to replace the power going from the headlight circuit to the switch. Its the purple wire found at the switch. Its just to switch the relay anyways, so now mine can come on with just the parking lights on and stay on, but I can still turn them off, and all with the stock switch. 1 wire and you're done.

This is the reply I got concerning headers for my 94 from JetHot: "I can offer the Pacesetter headers (#70-1198), fully coated in&out with the Jet Hot sterling silver finish,for $338.44+$25s&h to the door. The headers get a lifetime corrosion warranty and a 3yr finish warranty. Please feel free to call to place an order." As for the airbox, I didn't do too much. There was a plastic tube deal other than the air intake, and I just took that off and ran a small length of hose forward for more air. I've got something else in mind though that I've been meaning to try.

What K&N kit are you talking about? If you mean a cone filter vs stock drop in, I'd bet you not gonna notice any difference between the open air cone sitting in hot air under the hood and probably slightly cooler air the stock box can grab, especially if you open up the intakes into it. I have the drop-in and am completely happy with it for $49 from the local shop. But I also opened a pipe directly behind the grill and headlight for a fresh gulp of air. That also lets a nice little raspy sound out.

Right on. Nothing a properly sized cheater bar and some motivation can't solve.

Really, if nothing else, do the shrinkage in Paint. You could do it all QUICK and free, and save not only the cash but also the frustration of our dial-up friends. I have been told before, and now pass on the wise word.

I've heard this as well, that they allow the heat to carry back with the exhaust, keeping it cooler under the hood than with without. 88's gotta have an opinion here!

Sorry, didn't see the mount and bolt there, just thought you were worried about your light. But like he says, any shop should be able to just move the mount over a bit real quick.

Yea, I think the newer bumpers are a bit different than the older ones. You could just ditch the P.O.S. stock lights in favor of some better aftermarket ones mounted on the prerunner bar.

Very sweet! That solves the cup-holer issue finally. Hmmm..... :cool2:

People have said the bracket mount extensions are crap for the most part. If you search for body lift on here, there's tons of info.

I'm happy with my Bosch plugs so far. Along with a new cap and rotor, it ran smoother. The Accel wires seem good, and there are several colors and styles in the store. Just gotta let the funding recover from this week before I start going for more stuff. I did Bosch Platinum +2, by the way. A bit cheaper than the +4's that Jim did.

There's a FAQ section on the main site to check out. Tire Size

The BFG Mud Terrains wear really well. I'm 40K miles into mine with plenty more to go. But they're spendy, and the reviews say the Kumho MT's are just as good for way cheaper. As for the flowmaster, yup, it will give you a lower rumble and nice tone without being as loud as a straight pipe.

Decent print shops can do that. I hear you can bring in a pic or even a file on disk, and they can generally do a pretty decent job of working it into a vinyl graphic for pretty cheap.

Does anybody have anything to say about these? I was thinking about the MSD's, but a local store (GI Joes) has Accel universal do-it-yourself V8 wires for $37. That beats the MSD's in price, and I don't have to wait for the shipment. But obviously I don't want them if they're crap. So...

Nice color match to your SS. I'm working on an 88-inspired project as well. Nothing major, but I'll post pics.

Nah, you don't HAVE to. It just makes things a bit firmer and such, or at least mine did. Check out the topics here for all your Tbar needs.

Lookin pretty beastly. I'm thinking you need some rock sliders now to finish it out and fill in the space under the doors where you're frame is peeking. :cool2:

Um, I have rear drums. Wish I had discs though.

Well, checking it in daytime, the computer looks like it putting it into limp mode and dumping in gas to fight off (imaginary?) detonation. So yup, I'm going to go through the ignition stuff tomorrow. Cap & rotor are only about 2 months old, as are the plugs, but the wires are old. Is the wiring to the sensor accessible without tearing into the motor? I'm not sure what to look for there. Time to check and double check everything. Also, I just left Napa and then talked to the shop that just did my clutch for super cheap. The sensor is running $169 (better than $275 from Schmucks, but still crazy for such a stupid little part) and he says they would run about $120 in labor for install. That's sounding pretty reasonable to me at this point, if all else fails. I just don't have the time or garage to dive into it, especially with the big trip coming up in a few days.

Hee hee... the Target one was the first that came up in the search, but I figured people may not have a Target around. Wonder how well something like that works.