Mr. Pickles

That would make my size 11 shoe a Puppy Punter then.

Most any newer amp will have at least a basic crossover that will do, as long as you're not trying to go competition. You could also buy simple passive inline crossovers for about $10-15 a pair. I blew mine and put in some $30 Jensen tweets from Sears 1 1/2 years ago. I run 1200 watts total, and have yet to smoke those tweets.

Thanks. Someday I'll get the pics situation straightened out. Guess that's what happens when you're in a hurry. Had to get ready for a softball game. Now my next thoughts are heading toward a body lift perhaps... sly

Are you sure you have a full charge on the battery? Its sensitive to the level of voltage. I've run mine down with the stereo, and all will seem fine but when you try to start it, no dice.

Cool, these 2 have some, 1 was the donor of my steering stabilizer. South Hill Auto Wrecking: (253) 841-2073 Meridan Auto Wrecking: (253) 847-1922 & (253) 847-6367 As usual, be sure to beat them down on price if you can. They obviously will try for top dollar, but I worked them down big time on the first try. Not sure what you can do over the phone, but who knows. I'll let you know if I catch a break and am going down that way sometime soon. Maybe somebody else local can do the same.

Matching paint, matching everything. That would be sweet!

You may try and see what a boneyard would charge to pull the part and ship it. There are a few around here that probably have it, and I'd look, but I'm wrapped up in work and family stuff Saturdays for at least the next month or so. Its also about a 50 mile round trip. I could provide names and phone #'s if you're interested in that route.

And here's the overall shot after I also re-cranked the Tbars cause they had sagged since they were originally installed. Overall, I got about 2 3/4 inches lift in the back. By the way, I had cut off just short of 1 coil to completely remove the portion of the spring that tapers down to 3" at the top. Its sitting just under an inch higher in the rear, but I expect that may sag a tad and I'm also looking at a bigger (heavier) sub box shortly. sly

Here's an after shot on the rear.

Sorry about the size of the first pic, I forgot to resize, then tried to stop before it uploaded. No dice. Oh well, you get the idea. Here is the underside with the new springs installed. I used Plasti-Dip spray on rubberized paint. Same stuff I used on the roof rack, and its pretty durable so far.

The whole thing was straight forward, per 88Path's instructions. The only thing I'd add is that you probably want to make sure you have the proper height of jack and jack stands on hand. I found that not only did the floor jack I borrowed from my brother end up being way too short (fine for lifting the diff, though) but my Nissan jack couldn't even lift the tires off the ground! Mind you, I only have 31's on there. Good thing I found this out before I got a flat somewhere. So, I ended up using a couple of pieces of 3/4 inch mdf under the jack just to get it high enough and on the jack stands, which also had to use the mdf, and removed the rear tires. Also slid a piece under the back seats for "next time" on the side of the road. From there, it was straight forward. Remove the lower shock bolt (just loosened the top), remove the lower nut for the panhard rod and let it hang. A curious thing was, with all loosened and removed, I couldn't free the stock springs. So I went farther and removed all the guides for the E brake, basically anything that could be a problem, and lowered the rear end all the way to the ground, being carefull to keep an eye on brake lines, etc. The nice part is, once that was done (maybe an extra 5 min) the springs slid right out and the new ones right in with no problems at all. Anyway, time to breathe. Here are some pics. Time for beer. Here's the before shot.

$2.15 or so here. Its not getting lower fast enough. :furious: I'm loving a 3 mile commute though.

err, including lowering. Its just not a topic that is really covered on a 4x4 forum.

Not to be a punk or anything at all, but may I ask: why do you not want a lift? The only reason being, pretty much anything that you can find is either junkyard/steealer replacement parts or aftermarket lift gear. If you don't wish to lift "at all", then there you are. But if you're looking for anything really performance related (other than lowering) you need to look aftermarket, either stock replacement or custom/swap. If this is the case, the "search" feature is your friend. :secret:

This used to be covered on the main site. I remember someone going into the swap in the old forums WAY BACK in the day. Doesn't seem to exist now, though. Basically it was a TON of work that really wasn't worth it. But currently, you should check out some different bulbs as a cost-effective swap. I had an 85 P/U 4x4 with similar gauges, and you could get decent looking dash lights by switching to red bulbs or really bright white, maybe LED. Unfortunately, blue bulbs and such that are popular look kinda odd. But red could land you in the RX8 crowd, I suppose.

Try Ebay'ing it before you scrap it. If its in good running order, I bet there are takers out there that would love getting it for a decent price. They'd probably come and pick it up if they're local enough. You local boneyard will rip it apart and rape people for the parts.

I'd say its a good possibility. People say you can have the manifolds machined back to OEM specs, but what's the point really. It would probably cost the same as getting the headers. Wish I had gone that route vs. OEM repairs and waiting around to see when it fails again.

Seriously, pull the switch(es) apart and check that first. That possible repair is free. At most, it may waste 5 minutes per, but it could save you a lot of time and $$$ in the long run. Process of elimination, my friend.

Timing belt, you mean. I don't imagine that would cause these types of noises.

Ah, driver's side passenger didn't click with me as driver's side rear. On mine, I believe you need to pop off the smaller plastic panel around the handle/hole portion, then unscrew underneath that panel and continue on gently popping the plastic pins/clips all the way around.

Looking good. Couldn't that lip where the 2 panels be a place where you'd catch or hang up on something? Just a thought. White paint?! Nah! Polish it up, then you could throw some mirrors under there when you're parked like the ricers and lowriders.

You're lucky you don't have emmissions testing. If I remember right, 1000 or 1100 is the cutoff aruond here, if you can't idle under that to test, you fail. I hate those tests. Mine is due in the next month, so hopefully I won't be here looking for help soon. :X

Could also be your switches slowly going. Mine did this for the passenger side, where it slowed, then intermittenly wouldn't work, then nothing (but still worked on the passenger door switch). I just pulled the switch, popped off the toggle part, and moved the underlying switch to figure out this was the problem. Just trimmed the front and back of the toggle portion to allow more travel in the switch, and it still works fine a year later.

There are fiberglas parts listed on AC. Wonder how light they would be. It would be nice to put the Pathy on a diet.

Very passionate.