Mr. Pickles

Eyeball! Nice! Very professional. How did it turn out? I watched a friend's dad do his back in high school. Dude pulled out a pretty decent protractor-type deal and went to work. At the local self-car wash. At about 11pm. On a '78 or so Plymouth Volare. It was the only really flat, lit place at that hour. I'll be darned if he didn't get it just about right. Many many miles with only slight uneven wear. Actually, this leads me in a round-about way to my next post... ball joint spacers & new UCA's.

By the way, mine started the noise on the passenger side almost immediately after I bought it. Maybe a few weeks. By the time I got around to it, the driver's side was toast too. -alcohol- I didn't want to touch it at that point, but the shop got me for almost $1000! :furious: It would of course be a good idea to get it fixed now, as it might end up cheaper and easier in the long run. But like all have said, it probably won't hurt anything engine-wise.

I better not find a nugget! :o Probably not a bad idea regardless, no telling how long since it has been serviced. Gonna have to go back and check the previous posts now to find any tricks. Only time I've ever done this was on a *gasp* Mitsu truck. The horror. :X

Not trying to step on any toes, but I'm thinking you're using the wrong thought process here. If you have, say, 2 31" tires at the same pressure, 1 at 10.5 inches wide and 1 at 13 inches, the wider one would have the bigger footprint since its length is the same and width is wider, and this would carry over if pressure is lowered or raised. Anyways, how did we all get here? The topic was preferred pressure, and I do believe I'm supposed to be the one that gets off topic easily.

Or even a pair of narrow tweezers and some patience. I had this happen in the drivers door lock of my old 85 Nissan, and I was able to pull it out with some finesse and no breakage. But, this could have been helped by the wear of the drivers door lock vs. the hardly used rear hatch. Well, hope it works out. Good luck!

I've driven sticks my entire life, including some very sloppy ones as well as some tight and stubborn ones. I've never had something like this happen though. No matter what I did, what gear I tried to shift to, I couldn't get anywhere. Then it went away as suddenly as it started. Guess we'll chalk it up to something being out of line in some freak coincidence...?

Don't need anything else happening to that thing. Its already been wrecked once this year! Could be something about the stars/parts aligning in that one instance. It just wouldn't do anything at all. Then I shut her down, ran through the gears, and *poof* she's alive. :Magic: Extremely bizarre. I ran it through all gears several times on the way home to make sure. Hopefully all is well, and you all will be the first to know if now.

Also, the first time you hit a big bump or have to brake hard, you'll have your drink all over your heating controls and stereo. Electronics don't like moisture, or so I've heard.

Its all under a sticky near the top in the Garage section.

But the deal is, after I shut it down and ran through the gears, it works fine. Went home, then drove it to work up a steep hill, in traffic, etc. with no problems. I was almost thinking it was some sort of computer lock-out like I've heard of on some GM's.

Ok, this is weird. My tranny decided to lock up on the way home last night. I started from a stop light, went through 1st, then went to shift to 2nd and nothing. Couldn't even get it into gear... any of them. I coasted off the road and to a stop, tried 1st and after forcing it hard got a nice grind. Then I shut it down, and could shift just fine. Started it back up and no problems, off I went. Its still working just fine today. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

D'oh, I was gonna suggest the exhaust too. Mine did it only in a certain rpm band as well, I think it was around 1500 up to 3000 or so. Guess it depends on the speed of your engine to get the right vibration going. It was a high pitched tin sounding vibration, and did get faster up until it died out. Crawled under with some cutters and pliers and all was good.

If its detonation, it'll be a dull pinging sound, particularly under load such as accelaration and climbing hills. Kinda odd that you would have it, but maybe it could be a tuning-related situation. I've always used 87 octane cheapie gas, and have had none of those issues. Another idea: with the price of fuel lately, you may consider picking up a case of cheap octane booster rather than actually buying the mid or up-grade gas. I've seen it at Walmart and such for under $2.00 a bottle.

Hmm, I don't remember a concrete fence. More like chain link. Its on Meridian almost to Graham, past the landfill. A very big place. The Nissan's are almost to the very back of the place, in the middle.

Its self pick. That actually came for South Hill Auto Wrecking on 128th. It was the only one I saw there. That was my first stop, so I didn't look for any stabilzers at Meridian, but I'd bet they have them. There were many more trucks there than at S. Hill, and not as picked over. Happy hunting!

Here's the installed stabilizer. This is so ridiculously easy for ANYONE to do in just a matter of a few minutes. Only 3 bolts.

I took a 4 day weekend and found myself cruising the local boneyards today. Scored some decent toys. Got a stock steering stabilizer set-up from a 4x4 Hardbody for $15. Its a dream! Direct bolt on fit to the Pathy, and completely solved my steering slop issues. The front end has been checked out and everything else was in order, so on went the stabilizer and it drives smooth as ever, no shimmy or anything- at all! Also picked up some Jeep GC coils. I took a bit of a bath on these at $20 each, but they were already just sitting there since somebody else tore into the suspension for other stuff and left them. So, I'll just call the little steeper price "lack-of-labor" charge. FYI for those in the S. Puget Sound area, Meridian Auto Wrecking on S. Hill Puyallup (way out there) has several Pathys, including a few 4 doors. The interiors on some are even somewhat together (mostly grey in color). I saw some complete gauge clusters, trim, etc. and lots of intact suspensions. Have fun.

I KNOW you didn't really mean that you were gonna infect your Pathy with Forditis. :o Run away, run faaar away. Even if it is just fluid. My brother's Exploder just came out of the shop for the 5th time in 2 1/2 years because of the brakes. And a buddy just had his in for the 2nd time in 1 year on his. Found On Road Dead. F'd Over Rebuilt Dodge. :X

The Nissan recommended pressure would be for Nissan recommended stock tires. My BFG's say they can take up to 50psi, and I've run at 40 this whole time with no uneven wear issues at 40K miles on the set (other than caused by my bad alignment ).

Hmmm... looks mighty bare under there, Cuong.

That's pretty ridiculous on their part. You'd think if anything, they would fit easier on a 2wd truck than on a 4wd. I've never climbed under a 2wd, but there should be a bit more space due to the unfortunately missing transfer case and 4wd gear.

I read that the #5 setting is equivalent to the ride of the 5000's, with lower #'s softer and higher #'s stiffer. They said 9 was something like 800 times stiffer in reaction than 1 (don't know how that math works!).

That's what I was getting at. Good wording. Back to English class for me. -study-

Um, correct me if I'm wrong, but if they're in good shape and balanced, it shouldn't matter what size they are. They still shouldn't vibrate.

I'm talking about stock replacements, or close to stock, maybe a tad longer. When it comes to a lift, I think I'm gonna go for a body lift rather than suspension. I already have heavy duty T bars from AC that are cranked.