Rebelord

Check battery terminal posts. After that, check and make sure the alternator is actually working under load. IE all lights on, AC full blast etc. May be bad, even after just 2 months. Some rebuilds do that.

Eating oil? hmm no oil in coolant? No obvious oil leaks? If not to those. Pull your plugs, if your bleeding oil past the rings, then they will be black and oily. Exhaust will also have a blue tint smoke to it. After that, check your PCV valve. Rest of it, not familiar with the 3.5. But wish I was, sorry. BTW, Be safe over there. From what we get on the news here on the Ukraine. Its not so good over there.

Page 162 it shows it in the fsm Sent from my Moto X

Wait a second. There's a TSB around for that code. Something about a ground. Ill have to find the link here....

The cruise control brake switch? There is a rubber plug on the brake pedal that likes to fall apart and out. Can replace the plug, or tape n glue pennies in its place. What I had to do to mine.

^^^^ None that I know of. But I would re read the codes to make sure its a catalytic converter. As far as issues. Honestly, thats the same thing most of us have done by 150k. The rear links, the bushing wear out, that rubber will last about 150k. Maybe push to 200k, garage kept barely driven etc. The CV boots, stock they hardly tear unless brittle from age. Most of us, have torn them because we lifted our pathy's, which push the CV angle, off road which will full droop them etc. But something we have had to do. You'd freak if you see mine currently! Ha We do have quite a bit of members in Texas. That if needed could probably help you out. Heck, if you were in Miami. Bring it buy, I have a driveway we can use. However, it all comes down to price. Now, knowing that you CAN do this for less. Still use the quotes to bargain down. You're saying possibly $3k..see if she'll take 2500 just to get rid of it? $2500 for it, and if the strut housings are in good shape. Then sounds like a good deal. Again, we havent seen pictures of the interior. PS, also take in to account the struts and shocks. When were they last changed? Even more bargaining tools. Some people have shop do them, a lot of us have done them ourselves because we usually put on lift springs same time.

Actually, in the FSM. There is a procedure on how to read the abs codes. Its like reading a old OBD 1 car. You count the flashes and tells you whats the issue.

If you have to replace the sensor. Start spraying it with liquid wrench now. Every day until you pull it. Mine was a bear and half to change. Metal cased sensor in iron cast knuckle. Rusted in there good. Sent from my Moto X

Pump it up to 150 psi and let it sit. See where it drops to. Should hold higher than a certain amount. Will be in fsm Sent from my Moto X

Well, depends on how much you are interested in a Nissan Pathfinder. The prices quoted are a bit steep in my opinion. Can you list the code that they said is popped? That is saying the cat is for sure bad? May eliminate some costs up front with help from here. Second, are you at all mechanically capable? I ask, because the rear links. Can be had for around $50 each on Amazon or RockAuto.com. With a impact can be changed out in a afternoon in your driveway. Which are a common these as age and miles are not kind to rubber bushings. So, just with those. You go from the lowest quote of $695 to probably $250 at most with tax/shipping. As for the other services, you can clean your battery with coke and a dollar store toothbrush. Not $35... Alignment for $200? I guess that depends on local market area. Where I am, a lifetime from TireKingdom/PepBoys etc is usually $79-99 Changing the gear oil in the front and rear diffs is very easy to do. If you can change your own oil. You can do that also, just a lot easier with a el cheapo oil transfer pump. Maybe $50 max if you went with all Mobil gear oil. As for the CV boots. Again, can be done in your driveway. However, if easier to rebuild by mechanic. I would go that route. You can get all new CV boots from Rockford CV for about $85 to your door. They are better than OEM and the kits includes grease and clamps. At most you'd have to cover labor to rebuild them. This can also be done in your driveway. Honestly, if you can do most of this yourself, and you like that particular Pathfinder, finally able to get it for $3k? If thats a fair price for area, go for it. However, if there are better for the money. By all means go for it. If you pick up a Pathfinder we're here to help. Rebelord PS, try calling Alkorahil (Rob).

Base timing is 15-17* Sent from my Moto X

Grinding noise? I'd have them fix that asap. They probably broke the wire. Easy to do as the sensor is right on the knuckle. Sent from my Moto X

All city. Especially if its a large city like me in Miami. 12-14 can be avg. Stop and go just kills it. Sent from my Moto X

As for mileage with the 3.3 avg is about 15ish city and 17ish hwy. I have hit 20mpg hwy. But that was 65 set for a tank on flat lands. Sent from my Moto X

Ill reply more when home. But no need to replace the MAF and Knock sensor. Unless the maf is for sure sure 100% bad. Just clean it with MAF cleaner. If you have to replace it. The Maxima maf is the same and half the price. Knock sensor rarely go bad and is just a secondary code that pops with pretty much any other code that pops. O2 sensors only if bad also. The rest is good normal maintenance procedure. Doing it yourself is the way to go. Make sure to get the link in the garage section the FSM. Sent from my Moto X

Um maybe earlier cars that had the 3.0 or the quest maybe. Sent from my Moto X

I use Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic high mileage Sent from my Moto X

7zip is free and better. Sent from my Moto X

Transmission is probably the same. But maybe a transmission computer? Id as Alkorahil about that. Sent from my Moto X

Download the fsm. Sent from my Moto X

Received my new intake parts from Alkorahil. Put them on this morning. Much better, the old intake rubber parts were broke, cracked etc. Plus hard as a rock. Here's the obligatory pictures: Old Parts New Parts:

There is a importer here in Miami than can get me a complete Nissan diesel engine. Harness, PCM all of it. However its just above $3k for it all. Which includes all the import duties and such. Which is just to much for me. Yea, it would be kinda cool to do. But I dont see spending that much. If I were to spend that much, I would shoehorn a GM LSx series engine into my Pathfinder. That or take it a guy I know that owns a GTR speed shop and he can retrofit a stock GTR turbo onto the 3.3l and tune it and all for about $4k.

Quick and simple is: Get a cheap turkey baster at dollar store. Some kind of bucket or oil drain pan. Use turkey baster to suck all old fluid out of the PS reservoir. Then replace with Nissan or Nissan compatible automatic transmission fluid. Mine was easy to do, as my rack and pinion blew out all seals and all fluid. So I was dry to start with, Ha! But thats about it. I used Castrol TransMax Import. Pretty much the only one approved for use other than genuine Nissan fluid.

Yup. That sounds like a power steering issue. No leaks? Check your fluid level. If you do turkey baster is out. There is a thread somewhere here on how to do it correctly to swap to transmission fluid instead of PS fluid.

99% sure he found NOS parts. New Old Stock Sent from my Moto X