Rebelord

What precise said. Picking up the core support would probably be the hardest part. But it depends on your market for R50 if they total it. Down here a clean facelift R50 with less than 150k pulls $5k+!!!

That sucks man. Well at least its fairly easy to repair. And if you want. A Arb winch bumper actually costs less then replacement of factory style.

Intake manifold gasket

33" tires are a bit to fit with just a spring/spacer lift. Will have to do some trimming. Not a good pic, but here is half worn 31" with IronMan springs and 1 1/2" spacers up front.

Close enough to a spider for me. BTW, I hate spiders. No chunk missing. One side is attached to the TB which is pulled away, creating the gap.

I see a giant spider, thats what I see!!! Theres a few small coolant lines all right there that basically run coolant through your throttle body and also a coolant line above to the right of the intake. It will have a bleeder port to bleed air from the cooling system there. Check those.

Not just today but over the weekend. Replace all sway bar bushings front and rear including links. Replaced front LCA rear bushing. Need to do fronts also, but next weekend. Inspected brakes, time to do the fronts. I'll just order up some Akebono from Amazon and stick with those I guess. Might pick up rear shoes also. Touched up wheels and trim with Plasti-dip. Need it. Re painted roof rack rails and the cross bars. Few coats of matte black and then some coats of plasti-dip over that. Looks good.

^^^ very true. Since your in Miami like me. Try to make a stop by a harbor freight and pick a cheap volt meter. If you catch the flyer you can even get one for free. Next time you have a chance to let it idle for a period of time. Once you see the lights go on. Pop the hood, and check your voltage. Especially with the AC on full blast, radio on etc. Should have a minimum of 14.1 volts charging. If your below that, you will spark lights.

As you said. That can be traced back to that alternator. I would check all the wiring. Make sure its all tight and not loose. Especially since you say you can duplicate it by hitting the gas then backing off. Sounds like a wire is moving with the weight shift of the truck. Check your battery terminals. Make sure they are not all corroded and full of gunk. Old toothbrush and some coke in a plastic cup cleans it up nice n good. Dip the toothbrush in the coke and scrub. As for when your sitting and it coming on after 20mins or so, same thing. If a wire is loose or has a bad connection, heat will make it act up.

Here's a push for you guys. I have the AC skid plate for the front. Was pretty much given to me. It's 3/16" steel. It is freaking HEAVY! So much, that I dread dropping it to change my oil filter. So, for those of you on the fence. Grab this while you can. If your worried about cost. Here's my perspective. A sheet of 1/4" alum the size to make this is about $90 where I live. Then you have to find someone with a metal brake to make the bends, and hope you get them right. Then you have to spend the time to drill the holes. Which being slotted will make installing this super easy. (Compared to having to hold up 50lbs and hope you get the bolts started enough and fast enough with the heavy AC one). Finally you have to get it powder coated. Which will be $75+ and hope that the powder coater is doing a run. Otherwise you'll wait for it. Most wont do a single oven run just for a small skid like this. This is a good deal. Jump on it!!

Stoic has a write up in his thread on how he mounted his roof rack. Did exactly what you originally thought of.

Yup. Everyone covered it. If he did the community auto mechanics class he should be able to do all this easily. To add to the miles. I bought my 99.0 with 138,000 miles. I am over 200,000 miles now. I have had to do all the same stuff your doing now. Truck drives near new. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross country. Unfortunately your about the mileage that some $$$ intensive maintenance starts to rear its head up. However, if you are able, and willing. Then it can be worth it to keep the car for many more years. But, if it is more feasible for you to clean it up and sell it. Possibly get something new with a good comprehensive warranty. Then so be it. You have to do, whats best for you.

Are you mechanically inclined? To where you think you could perform 90% of this on your own? Most of it really isn't all that hard. If so, you can save a butt load of money. Plus, those prices are extremely high. Once we chime in on actual cost of parts. I'd find friend to help or a new mechanic. This is what I have been told I need: 1. Both Valve cover gaskets are leaking approx cost to fix: $385 but the NIssan Service Mgr. said he didn't know what other problems they would find once they were "in there." - Valve cover gaskets are ~$30 at Napa. Intake gasket is $8. This is not really a hard job. Just time consuming. $40 for parts. 2. Replace Spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and PCV valve approx. $300 - Spark plugs are ~$3 each (~$20 total), Wires are $50-70, fuel filter is $10, PCV valve is $12. ($112 for parts) Very easy to do. 3. Replace front struts approx.$780 at dealer, $925 at independent mechanic - Struts can be had for ~$50 each at parts stores for bargain brand. Usually $75 for KYB's online. At most, 2 hours labor to swap em out. (~$140-180) 4. Replace rear shocks $316 at dealer, $330 at independent mechanic - Rear shocks $30-50 each parts stores or online. Takes a whopping 30mins max to swap out. Very easy to do. 5. Replace four tires $769 from dealer - Tires are conditional to brand, type and type of balance you want. So this is normal price for my area for Goodyears with road force balancing etc. You can still shop around. 6. Alignment $70 from dealer $90 from independent mechanic - Again typical price. However some places will roll in a free alignment with 4 new tire purchase. Shop around. 7. Needs new Distributor cap and rotor only the independent mechanic says this no price yet. - Dist. Cap and rotor ~$15 at Napa. Takes 5 mins to swap. Very easy to do. 8. Repackaging Front wheel bearings, new pads and turn rotors Only the Nissan Service Mgr says I need this $300 - Packing front bearings is easy to do, cost is for grease. ~$15. Pads and rotors, you can get get pads for as cheap as $20 to up to $50. Rotors are $45 at Napa. Easy job to do also. 9. Trailing and traction arm bushings are Torn Only the Nissan Service Dealer says I need this $500 - All for trailing arms for the rear can be had for $45-65 each on Amazon. Easy to do unless your bolts are rusted solid from salt. Then a impact is needed. May need new bolts if that bad. So add $30 max for some. 10. Sunroof leaks into cabin when it rains haven't gotten an estimate on that. I was hoping I could just clean and Armour-all the gaskets to stop the leak. - There are two drains for the sun roof. On the forward right and left side. Blow them out with air. Search on this site for it. There are a few threads about it. Easy to do. Without tires and alignment that there is about $815 ish. That's if you decide to do every thing at once. That's maybe a 1/4 of what they quoted you. Save your money. Do it yourself. If you don't know how, I'm sure you have a friend that could show and teach you. Might cost you some pizza and drinks.

Those plugs are for heated seats.

Probably full of crud. Unless you somehow tweaked it. Sent from my Moto X

Just pull the head. See what you find. May not need a new long block. Sent from my Moto X

All my clips are busted. Antinsieze will be fine. Clear the code or drive a bunch. As said Sent from my Moto X

I think its snake racing. Or they are the distributer of em. Possibly King struts out there. Either way. Same thing. I made phone calls to Aus about parts. The actual parts cost isnt bad. It's the shipping cost of $3-400 that sucks. Unless your in good with a import/export guy. Sent from my Moto X

This forum is not dead. Very lively and full of information. Even some of the other Nissan forums reference to this one quite a few times.

I remember that thread. Didn't they end up braking on him? Might be good for road use but off road they cant take the abuse? As to the person that made a 2" subframe drop. PM me. As I would like a subtle drop. But dont need a full 4" sub drop. Sent from my Moto X

Out west I loved the trails with some rocks. Didn't do much rock crawling as I had a F150. Lil big for some of the stuff. When I lived in NC. The trails there were awesome! Good fun trial with some mud. Which on the east coast of NC is that black tar mud. Down here in South Florida. It's all mud. Have to go north to Citrus and stuff for real trails. End if the day what do I like best? Desert trails with rocks. Loved it out there. You can wheel all day then sleep under the stars. Wonderful setting. (Just watch out for a pack of wild donkey to come wandering through though.) Sent from my Moto X

Transmission mount is good to go? Didn't happen to break in the winter? Other than that sounds like a bushing somewhere. Rear arms, panhard rod. Especially if you say you can rock the truck and see the pinion angle change. 2* is a pretty big change that will be amplified inside the cabin. Sent from my Moto X

From the way the video makes it look. Where the water pump sits. If its seal was toast and your weep hole is plugged up. Yea the coolant would just drop straight down the timing chain into the pan. What you can do is try to just access that cover for it. And get a actual good look at it. Pour some fluid into a upper or your lower hose and try to see if you can see any weeping. Sent from my Moto X

You didn't accidentally hook up the bypass to the crankcase vent? Just throwing a idea. Sent from my Moto X

My go to for a quick lube for seals is a lil bit of vasoline. Works good and doesnt harm anything.