Rebelord

Yup. Use a intake vacuum line to suck in half a can. Shut off. Let sit for 5. Then suck in second half. Let sit for 15-20. Start up hold at about 2k rpms. Enjoy the smoke show. Be prepared for possible fire department to show up. Sent from my Moto X

Most people replace their struts and shocks at the same time. But if yours are new then you dont need to. Along with that is also replacement of the strut mounts. Rule of thumb is 50-60k miles for struts n shocks. Possibly less depending on driving conditions Sent from my Moto X

Just a FYI I was able to get my IronMan springs from Camel4x4.com for 277 shipped. Just to give you a number figure. Plus you'll need struts n shocks depending on miles on yours. Just a goal to have. Sent from my Moto X

Thank you for the diagram. One of these days I'll get a chance to clean out my truck and take off the side panel. Maybe just a loose connection at the amplifier. I hope that is all. Seriously contemplating just replacing the whole system and re wiring it all.

If the budget only allows you to do the spacers right now. Then go for it. They can still be used with springs later on. I went with springs as mine were shot. As with most others. Usually once your over 100k miles. Springs have taken their toll and have sag in them. As for TutorN1: I am running the Gabriel Ultra struts and shocks from Autozone. Holding up great with IronMan springs and strut spacers.

TPS may need to be set. Cant tell from phone. But if its a 3.3 should be a voltage set. 3.5 have a tps relearn procedure. FSM has it all. Ah... You said its been raining. Try to get it set and see if it still stalls. Side note Maf clean and its connections? Sent from my Moto X

Ok. 99 Pre facelift with factory Bose stereo. Where are the tweeters wired to? They randomly work when they want to then stop. Heck, I didnt even know they weren't working until they decided to do this in the past week. Center dome. Doesnt work 99% of the time. Bulb is good, can remove then put it back in. May work a few times then stops. Contacts are good not corroded and hold the bulb in good. Looking for ideas here on this one.

Buy/Rent/Borrow/"Acquire" one from parts stores, friends etc. Pretty easy to do if you have a air compressor.

Stoic built a rear storage setup.

At least on my 3.3L it goes: O2 -> Main Cat -> O2 -> Aft Burner Cat The front O2 are the main ones that determine your A/F ratio. Then the exhaust gasses are to be burned up by the main cats, the rear O2s are there to make sure the mains are working and burning correctly. The aft burner cats are a extra set to burn any extra that may not have been completed. Pretty much the same setup on my old LS1 car. Hence when we would put in long tube headers, we would use O2 sims for the rear O2s to trick the ECU into thinking the readings where correct. But then ECU editing programs where able to just delete them period. Which was fun!

Remember also, Depending on where you get your gas. You may be getting up to 15% or more ethanol blend. Which ethanol is horrible for gas mileage. Check that out where you get your gas. As for finding non ethanol blended gasoline. Unless its the same price and close (dont have to drive 10miles to get it), you can try some. See if it makes a difference. But most non ethanol gas you will find is called "90 Rec". Usually sold by marina's for boats. I have 90 Rec available to me for free or cheap. I tried it out for 3 tanks worth. Didnt make a difference at all honestly. Oil wise. Mobil 1 5-30 HM fully synthetic is cheapest at Wal-Mart. ~$24 for a gallon/5qt jug. Plus they should have the Bosch filters there also which are good to run. Which the Bosch is slightly bigger than stock too. Dont run a Fram filter. Anything but Fram. I used to run Royal Purple in my LS1. But that was a street/strip car. Your 02 sensors. 4 of them, two before the main cats, two after. There are a second set of cats aft of the rear O2s. But having a shop remove them will probably NOT happen. As it's illegal. But it is possible usually with a cash only place *cough*cough*. /hijack: this thread has reminded me. I am due for a oil change,spark plug check and fuel filter change. Did the plugs about 50k ago. But did the standard NGK, not the OEM platinum. /end

Subbing. To see where this goes. I run the STT tires myself. Great off road tire. Not so great for daily driver use. For daily, I'd stick with their AT3 myself.

Thats pretty much what I get on a consistent basis in city traffic. If you are highway and keep the cruise set for 90% of the trip. Then you should be doing a lil better, 16+. Check plugs, clean MAF, make sure O2s are good and reading good. (Check actual readings vs just waiting for a SES light.), change fluids; gear oil etc. Normal stuff really. Honestly, once you are in any kind of stop n go traffic. MPG tanks with my R50. But on trips where I can keep the cruise set for 55-65 for 200+ miles. I easily get 17+ with full load. Empty I creep up on 20+mpg.

No snorkel. Stay below the top of the wheel well. Be safe and stick to top of the tire and move at a slow pace, to keep the bow wave moving.

BTW, I regularly carry about 300lbs of tools in the back and tow a 2500lb trailer. With the original springs, the rear would sag down the where the fender flares would start to cover the tire. Now, barely makes a peep and rids BETTER than stock and smooth.

I did the same as bushnut. I have Iron Man springs. With 1" spacer up front. However they have settled since then. I should probably go back to the same spot to take a pic to compare. But here it is. I am running your size tires here. 255/65R16 Here shows the rake more. But this is with 31" tires.

If I remember correctly. 15s fit up to 2000s. Then 2000.5+ take 16s. Basically if you have a 3.5 you need 16 or a grinder. Sent from my Moto X!

15x7 Alloy wheels? Like the ones in my sig? If so; Yes, they have a clear on them.

Soak it with PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench etc real good. Then with the old one, grab it tight with some vice grips and try to turn it back n forth to work out. Thats all I was able to do. Took me a few hours to get my old one out.

Probably same manufacture as Monroe/Gabriel mounts. I am running Gabriels from Autozone. Buy em there, and give them your phone number to register them and lifetime warranty on em.

The ABS sensor housing is steel, in a cast spindle. Combine that with time and it gets pretty seized up in there. When I had to remove mine, it was a PITA. Took me a few hours just to get it out. Then to get the new on in, was a PITA also. Best bet is getting a new one. Because you'll probably destroy a JY one trying to get it out.

Full synthetic has no adverse affects. Its been discussed till the horses skeleton has decomposed on this forum and others. But for any specific oil questions I would suggest Bob Is the Oil Guy forum. Sent from my Moto X!

Its fine for a DD. Drive normal and it will act as a open diff on turns, may hear some clicking/ratcheting. . Straight line it will be locked. Hit the gas hard in a corner it will lock.

Lock-Right IMO. Simpler, cheaper and easier to do. Plus you know it will hold unlike the LSD which will slip and eventually fail.

I would assume so. Sent from my Moto X!