88pathoffroad

I've thought about how to reduce CV angles on the stock IFS as well and the best/cheapest solution I came up with was to drop the diff as much as you can. Which isn't much, cuz the CV's will hit the torsion bars.

The trans CAN make a whirring noise if it's got something wrong with it. Mine did when it blew. Steady whine/brrrrrr noise.

Hey Steve: you kick ass for getting this set up.

The switch is what's going to heat up on you. I've had more switches die from not using a relay than anything else. Melted fuses, too. Here's a website with a lot of correct, useful info on how to wire stuff using a relay and WHY. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

IIRC it says "instrumentation" for the gauges, doesn't it?

Mine is a Yakima rack with roof rest mount and extenders (cuz I have a 2-door). It clips to the sheetmetal above the doors, then has extender bars going back along the roof to another set of towers that just rest on the roof. I can grab the rack from either side and shake the whole Pathy with it, it's pretty damn solid. I scored that baby at the junkyard for $50. The towers alone cost $110 a pair brand new! I made my own front light bar out of a piece of 1"x3" steel. Simple install: drill holes, bolt to extender bars, bolt lights on.

I would ask the kind people at AC that "engineered" those UCA's if they have any ideas as well. For aftermarket lift UCA's AC certainly makes the worst ones on the market even though they talk a string of crap about how cool they are. I've had AC, Superlift and stock UCA's all side by side and the AC UCA's were the poorest built, with the closest angles to stock. Take some pics for us?

Perhaps you could use a cheap spring compressor to compress the springs a little before install. It should bolt together OK that way.

Looks like you have it handled, man! I did mine in the driveway with one jack, some 2x4 and two jackstands. It took a while but it was worth it.

I've tried both kinds. They both suck. I think a better fix would be to take in your knuckles and centerlink and have them reamed to fit something more common and beefy like Chevy or Ford tie rods, whichever comes closer to stock size. I know that moves the steering weakness to the next weakest part, but after repeatedly hammering tie rods straight on a rock on the side of a trail it might be worth it. If the house brand has a warranty, KEEP THE PAPERWORK and trade 'em in when they get slopped out.

As always, if you have an auto, get an external trans fluid cooler and do NOT use the stock cooler. Flush the fluid and bypass the stock cooler. I'd try a fluid change first and see if it helps. A long pause between gears is a bad sign as far as I know.

are too I've seen a unlocked, open diffed HB pickup spin all 4 tires on sand. Repeatedly. Seriously.

I've had K&N filters on many cars and trucks over the years and never had a problem. Maybe it only happens to other people?

We've had this discussion before. MWS took a look at the design of the gears and t-case in general on WD21's. Early WD21's specified gear oil in the t-case (mine had gear oil in it when I bought it and the FSM says gear oil as well) while some later ones used Dexron III. The manually shifted TX-10 t-case design wasn't changed, so it looks like you could run either kind in the t-case.

Is it hissing while running or when off? Sometimes the evaporative recovery system can make a hiss after the engine's off, and when it's running the fuel pump will kinda whine or hiss as it operates.

Ditto, it's for looks only. I have a friend that had one on a Ford and a couple of drunk guys roughhousing on it broke it clean off at the welds.

Chevy stuff does not bolt to Nissan stuff without expensive custom adapters. You CAN use an all-GM drivetrain if you're good at fabbing though. I've seen these engines transplanted: Nissan 3.3 V6 Nissan 4.5 V8 Ford 302 V8 Chevy 305 V8 Chevy 350 V8 Chevy 383 V8 GM 3.8 V6 GM 4.3 V6

I used a propane torch and simply sat the UCA on the ground in some gravel with the torch aimed at the rubber. With a little scraping and gouging with an old screwdriver you can get all the rubber out pretty easily. The cleanup is the hard part. Got a wire wheel?

I'd ask if it fits first. The intake on a 87-89 is NOTHING like the intake on a 90-95. The hot air riser on the bottom of the stock air cleaner will need to be eliminated, that would be the very first place water would go if you got in too deep.

For an 89 I don't think there are any snorkels you can buy. You'd have to make your own. The round air cleaner would have to be completely sealed and you'd have to figure out some way to attach the end of the snorkel piping to the rectangular snout on the air cleaner...

Yeah, those were styled after the prerunner race scene. IIRC they came with neat tube bumpers.

Break the grid center out and leave it unplugged. It won't cause any problems unless it gets really cold. Even then a little throttle at startup will get you going.

Pull the stereo and check for connection problems with the dimmer wire? That shouldn't affect the headlights but you never know.

Could also be the harmonic balancer making noise. Sometimes they can separate from the isolator and cause all kinds of problems.

Where is it leaking from? Could it be the heater hoses?