ahardb0dy

What do you mean turn signal reset? Are you referring to when you turn the wheel back after making a turn and the signal light goes out? If you swap the steering wheel for another Nissan wheel, as long as the rear matches the original one it should work normal. IF you have a problem with the turn signals turning off it may not be the steering wheel. The 2 "tits" that cancel the turn signal are part of the rear cover of the steering wheel, they are not part of anything that bolts to the steering wheel, see my pic below, this is a 94ish steering wheel (stock): with the horn/cruise ring installed:

that's right, thought so but wasn't sure so didn't want to give bad info, I was thinking of the one for the tire carrier.

My former 87 hardbody had the automatic hubs, I had that truck from day one for 14 years, beat the hell out of it and went 4 wheeling multiple times per week, never had any issues with the automatic hubs.

check on here, it's another Nissan forum that has gotten together with NPORA in the past on group buys and stuff, http://infamousnissan.com/forum/index.php join and contact David29 he sells Nissan parts (used) and usually has a lot of parts available. I'm a member there also, same user name dimmer switch on E-bay $18.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-Nissan-Pathfinder-dash-light-dimmer-switch-rheostat-knob-/181602563279?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a485b34cf&vxp=mtr

not that I know of, try another one if you can, any other pathfinder owners new you?

Door lock timer could still be bad

looks good !

could be a bad door switch, any problems with the dome light working or coming on randomly? Or any problems or lights showing the rear cargo door is open? Rear cargo door switch is a known issue.

What did you use to clean the MAF sensor? Did the engine idle like it is now before you cleaned the TB and MAF? Not supposed to use carb cleaner on the MAF ( not saying you did just saying)

make sure none of the solder connections are touching each other.

Merry Christmas all !!

Wiring guide for relays: When I did the H4 headlights (hardbody swap) on my former pathfinder I used the high and low beam wires going to the pass. side headlight plug to trigger each relay, than the output from each relay ( one for low beam one for high beam), I ran a wire from each relay to the drivers side headlight plug (furthest away from the relay), than I tapped into the same wire near the pass. side headlight and ran a wire to the pass. side headlight. One for the high beam one for the low. The drivers side headlight plug (stock) I just unpluged and left alone unused. I used 10 gauge for all the wiring, except what was stock going to the pass. side headlight plug.

check for codes on the ECU

on my current hardbody:

you could eliminate the stock terminal and the red connector if you wanted too, you would have to cut the ends off where they plug into the red part and install them either into a large butt connector or put a ring terminal on each wire than connect to the new terminal. This is how I did it in my former sentra and my current hardbody: I cut the plugs off of the fusible links on one end, than stripped the wires and put them all in a large butt connector, the other end of the butt connector I put in a short length of 6 gauge car audio power wire with a ring terminal on the other end, than I installed the new ring terminal onto the new battery terminal, only down side doing it this way is if one of the fusible links takes a crap, I would have to cut out the butt connector and re-do it. here is how the new terminal looks on the battery, the large cable is the one that goes to the starter, the other cable is for plug in jumper cables, I later replaced the negative terminal too:

alignment can straighten the steering wheel

you can either replace the battery terminal with a new stock one, or install an aftermarket terminal, but than you will have to connect the fusible links to the new terminal some way.

years ago when I installed the Trailmaster body lift kit in my former 87, the kit came with a longer shaft, It was a pain for you, but you got it !

could be the hood switch is going bad causing the alarm to go off

I reversed the middle mount when I installed the rack on my former 94, that way it wouldn't hang over the edge of the body, bottom pic was during test fit, was sitting on the roof and was before re-painting the rack:

no middle mount?

At the junkyard i use two 12" long extensions with a swivel that way it puts the ratchet outside the fender, makes it real easy to get the bolts out. (At home I use a 24" extension, won't fit in my junkyard tool bag ! LOL)

2 on each side, accessible from under the fender, one is recessed within a bracket, the bolts on each side are the same size. The lower shroud should come off separately from the bumper. This may help you see where the bolts would be:

in black:

is the 4 pin plug installed on the harness so it would be under the hood? Or in the cab? If under the hood may be to plug a relay in possibly, hard to say without seeing it.