ahardb0dy

Checked the alternator belt and finally put my Jim Connor Racing steel front skid plate back on.

thanks I corrected it, LOL

should look just like or very similar to the one in the video

were you able to download it using my link?

I was going to say I thought the trans and transfer case were both sealed as both use different fluid, but not being 100% sure I didn't. at least with your pic you can see they are sealed.

that looks like it is under the dash? I thought the window amplifier was in the rear behind one of the side panels?

and don't forget the oil filter is easier to get to also in the VG33

What do you mean tricky to get off? Do you mean getting the board out of the plastic case or???

you don't automatically have to re-index the bars when you crank them. Just if you run out of adjustment and still have room between the UCA and the bump stop than you can re-index the bars so you can get more adjustment out of them.

depends on how easily the torsion bars come out of the lower control arms, if they come right out and the rear adjusters come right off, a few hours.

If you are unsure of any electrical connections and there are multiple plugs that are the same size same number of pins just label them with a pc of tape or take a perm marker and put 1 dot on each half of one plug, 2 dots on each half of the next and so on. Usually ( but not always) the plugs are different shapes, sizes and number of pins so mixing them up won't happen, USUALLY. When I had the trans rebuilt in my 87 hardbody the first time and I picked it up from the tranny shop it wasn't down shifting right, turns out they had 2 plugs mixed up, I swapped them and than it was fine. I don't think there are many plugs on the transfer case though

could be 8's I guess, with out the flares they appear to stick out further

I think the type Tungsten posted, Napa has the best ones

OEM is NGK, I would not use Bosch personally, Nissan's like NGK

The amount those tires are sticking out are you sure they are only 8's? They look how my hardbody looked when I was running 10's: 33/12.50's on 15 x 10's: 33/12.50's on 15 x 8's:

glad you figured it out, I was going to suggest as a test to connect the lights directly to the battery at least that would let you know if they worked, but you figured it out already. Sorry no help with the alarm, first thing I did when I bought my 94 was tear it out.

So your saying with the test light you DON'T have power even when you ground the test light at the battery or the frame????? But with a meter it shows power at the wire for the bulb?? Did you test the test light first at the battery to make sure it is working? If it is and you don't have power at the fog light wire than maybe the meter is wrong. If this is the case than I would go back on the fog light harness to see if there is a relay and check that.

The aftermarket Upper control arms allow you to crank in more lift while keeping the ball joint angles closer to stock and they make it easier to have the front end aligned. Some people replace the rubber bump stops with low profile ones but if you raise the front end that much you will have almost no downward suspension travel and the truck will ride very rough. You should have about a half inch or slightly more between the upper control arm and the bump stop. This is my 94 PF after I re-indexed the torsion bars to bring the front back up level with the rear, no lift in the rear, notice the angle of the lower control arms, if they are angled further down you probably have the front raised too much.

if you can get the window amplifier apart, I would check closely for bad solder joints, if you find any, you can just heat them up to make them good again. The best way to tell if the amplifier is bad is to swap in one that you know works. here's a video on what to look for and showing how to take the amplifier apart, it's for a different Nissan but I think they all look the same: Using Nissan FAST I got this part number which says it was superceeded: Old Part Number 28515-43G10 New Part Number B851543G85 Part Name AMPLIFIER ASSY- MSRP $148.23 Core $0.00 Online Price $108.95 this was from http://www.trademoti...h&siteid=214041

They are probably all made by sway a way, I would stick with the sway a way bars. Was just on the sway a way site and it says their bars have a 20-30% increase over stock..

just try another fan clutch first

Fog lights - Bad ground, check for power at the wire that goes to the bulb and clip your ground clip ( if your using a test light) to the same place the bulb gets it's ground from.

it wouldn't be a rebuilt it would be an original unit out of a low mileage vehicle, the same as if you bought a JDM engine, like I did with the one i have in my PF now. I guess he said same price for the trans and transfer case as they probably don't want a transfer case sitting in their warehouse. I thought if my trans did take a crap with my experience with having them rebuilt (3 times on my 87 hardbdody at $2K each time and they never lasted as long as the original one did) I would pick up the JDM trans/transfer case and just have the whole thing swapped. The JDM engine I have in my PF now and the first one I bought years ago that I had swapped into my hardbody both ran/run like they were brand new, in the hardbody I could definitely notice a difference in power. It was weird though the JDM engine I bought 20 or so years ago was more expensive than the one I bought 2 years ago. $1350 - $600 The first engine had all ribbed belt pulleys on it compared to V groove and had a FI setup different than what the PF has. The second engine that I have now was almost identical to the PF engine that was in my PF other than not having the EGR temp sensor, had to pull it from the bad motor. The first engine looked spotless, freeze out plugs were shiny gold, when the valve covers were removed ( they were different than the hardbody) everything under the covers was clean, the guy that did the swap for me was impressed on the overall condition of the engine. The second engine was pretty clean I had 2 to chose from I took the one with the factory blue "pitwork" oil filter. good choice so far !!

Cleaned the windshield and put new wipers on it, wet sanded top of fender to see if I could bring the color back., looks good so far have to check it today.

I e-mailed the guy that I bought my JDM VG30 from to see what they get for the trans/transfer case if they sell them at all, when I bought my VG30 it was still bolted to the tranny/transfer case so I figured they would have them. The guy wrote back and said I could have the tranny with or with out the transfer case for $399. I figure the way the engine runs that I bought from them if the trans works as well it would probably be in really good condition. Of course there is no way to tell from looking at it but wanted to ask what you all thought about the price?? Also thought if I did buy the trans/transfer case at least it would be easy to replace the filter being out of the vehicle. I just checked on Nissan FAST and the VG30E came on the JDM WD21 but is not listed on the JDM D21? Guess the engine I bought had to come out of a pathfinder (terrano).