silverton

NASIOC is the biggest, and your best bet for part outs.

Hawk eye's are 06-07 and the bug eye's are 02-03. My friends was a "blob" or "peanut" eye and those are 04-05. I image they all have the same switch. Subaru is even more of a Lego vehicle than Nissan. I mean, they only have four models after all

If it's older Pathfinders I don't think you'll find anything that matches the newer stuff. They moved on to different connectors that are fancier.

Unless you can find a way to strap the upper mount point to the frame, I wouldn't even bother and just buy an ARB bumper.

This has been the definitive way to lift Subaru's for at least a decade. What took y'all so long?? lol.

You remember correctly on that! I was there. Absolutely crazy, sounded like someone put a round through a .45 and then his rig was up in steam.

You essentially need the ECU+TCU and the ENTIRE harness along with the transmission itself. Much easier to sell your five speed truck and buy an automatic.

Muffler should be much after the rear O2 sensor. So it shouldn't effect how it runs, just sound louder. The nice thing about a 96+ vehicle is that they are OBD2. If this were your 92 we could guess all day and never figure out what's really long, but since it's your 98, go get the codes checked and save yourself all the trouble of guessing. It will tell you EXACTLY what's wrong.

Allows you to adjust headlight aim depending on load, which is nice. One of these is in my friends 2005 Subaru STi. So possibly in other Subaru models as well, I imagine they all work the same, so it allows you to broaden your search outside of just Nissan vehicles.

Wonder if it's time to exchange your transmission fluid? It might be too thick when cold.

I always run my tanks to E, or very near to E. Never have problems.

the "crud" that doesn't exist? lol I've pulled many a fuel pumps out of junkyard trucks, fuel tanks are always spotless.

Yes, lock tight the bolts, as I believe they are from the factory. And I'm pretty sure you need to swap t-case's.

Wrong. You're better off letting off the pedal and doing the grunt work yourself. ABS is for people who can't drive and just end up panicking.

Just goes to show caR50's weren't meant to wheel. airbags, four wheel abs, and pencil thin tie rod ends... jeez. If you have a LSV (Load Sensing Valve), do not get rid of it. I doubt you do as it's more of a pickup thing. As you had weight to the rear of the vehicle it increases line pressure to the rear brakes, so that when you are texting&driving and happen to look up and see that traffic has stopped in front of you and you slam on the brakes, you won't spin out and die in a fiery car crash.

My old 95XE had a proper working fuel gauge and idiot light. My 95SE, the idiot light works... tested by grounding the pins for it at the fuel pump, but it's never triggered, and the fuel gauge is all wonky... bad sender.

Fun fact, if you look closely, you should see that the ones on your truck with foglights were cut and not molded to accept foglights. Every 94/95 came with what you see in the second picture, and if the dealer wanted to install the foglight kit, they cut the center bar out.

Except, the IN bumper foglights light pictured above were a 94/95 thing only. 88-93 (and maybe 87 but most of those trucks seem ultra base model) had the bigger euro style Bosch fogs hanging below the bumper on metal brackets. Since they were a dealer option, it's unlikely that the wiring is already in your truck, but luckily all the fog light wiring "kits" were the same. So all you need to do is go to the junkyard and pull out the wiring. The under hood portion is pretty long, the relay is bolted to the firewall near the wiper motor and the wiring runs along the passenger fender and around the battery. I can't remember where the wire runs through the firewall to the switch, but there is also a wire hooked in under the steering column beauty to the low beam power wire on the light stalk that goes from the indash foglight switch.

I love Torque!

Check under the hood for wetness around the fuel hose clamps. Probably just a coincidence that it happened after getting it back from the shop.

I'm guessing your tires aren't as stock as you thought they were. My guess is that you have something in the 215/60(75) or so range on an SE-V6 which came stock with 31x10.50 At any rate, something way too small as your speedometer is reading extremely slow.

Definitely replace the belt again.

the bracket that's on the factory center link will only work with the Nissan OEM steering damper, you generally have to get them off to run an aftermarket one like Rancho.

Sounds like a lot of work and money to not get gains that would make it worthwhile.

Both my 95's, XE and SE with factory alarm had an alarm horn as well. And it was actually an attention getter, surprisingly!