silverton

Sounds like you skipped the proportioning valve? It's third in line of the five bleeders. RR, RL, PV, FR, FL. The proportioning valve is on the passenger side frame rail about where the B pillar is.

And I just read your whole post. I don't think you'll get the rears to lock effectively. These vehicles have Rear-ABS so the proportioning valve is going to restrict flow to the drums when the differential's speed sensor detects a lock-up.

Only if you have a Hardbody pickup and not a Pathfinder.

Aren't O2 sensors supposed to make sure the engine is getting the proper amount of fuel?

the latch on my SE is so tight you can see the roof flex when working the latch. Good'n'tight!

Have you replaced the brake pads on it? If so, what did you use? If not, someone probably bought the cheapest pads available to make it look better during an inspection. I recommend replacing the front pads and rear shoes with something of good quality. NOT the $20 pads from autozone.

Wow, that's a good stuck! I can't say a locking rear would have helped much. A winch and a tree saver for sure though! Hard to say if there was a tree there that would handle 8-10k pounds worth of pull though. The truck only weighs 4k but being in mud like that can essentially double your vehicles weight when attempting to pull out.

Like people that replace their airbox with a cone filter in place of it? Yeah... that's a good way to drop 10 horsepower. Might sound cooler, but you're gonna go slower.

And that's three liters of japanese power! Not german or italian. The VG is a sick dog when it doesn't have a turbo charger shoving air down its throat, as was intended when it was designed.

Round dash truck. This has been covered before Adam Take the cluster out and give all the screws on the back about 1/8th to a 1/4 turn to tighten. Report back afterwards.

You don't need to tune your ECU for cold air. The sensors do that already.

I've only ever seen one. And that was at my work in Federal Way, WA probably about a month ago. I think they're neat!

5 is on the passenger side. If the noise lessens as you turn the distributor I wonder if you're hearing a knock from it being WAY out of time. Make sure the mechanical timing is set perfect before checking compression or else you'll be wasting your time.

The auto isn't much of a whiner. And if it were low on fluid it doesn't function properly. extra triple hard, or soft, shifts. shifting at random times for no apparent reason, or not engaging overdrive. those kinds of things would make me suspect the transmission fluid is the problem. But the front and rear differentials can whine if they are lacking fluid. If you're having a hard time engaging 4wd your transfer case could be low.

Assuming is bad. The O2 sensors are one of the pivotal components to ensuring that your engine is running properly. Your truck maye has 3, but probably 4 O2 sensors being a V6 and in the correct configuration. You have a primary O2 sensor for both left and right banks. These are the ones that ensure the air/fuel mixture is proper. When a primary O2 is bad it is no longer measuring the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream and can not adjust fuel trims properly. With one working O2 sensor, and one not working O2 sensor the ECU could think that the amount of oxygen going in to each bank is wrong and might think the throttle position sensor is not telling the ECU the proper information. Then you have the secondary O2 sensors which on some vehicles work with the primary to ensure that the fuel trims are at peak efficiency. But in most cases they just monitor the condition of the catalytic converters.

Wiggle the ignition key in the lock why pulling the latch.

If the belt broke you would have to be the luckiest guy in the known universe to have not bent a valve or three. And judging on your experience with this shop so far, find a different one. Broken belt = bent valves, guaranteed. Especially if you kept trying to start it.

the TPS isn't something that can be cleaned. Sometimes you can get a code from other components being messed up. I recommend replacing the O2 sensors, resetting the codes and wait to see if it comes back.

Same thing is going on in my Pathfinder. Just need to replace the sender unit. it is a friction based contact for the sender so after time they do wear out.

I also advise you replace those relays with Bosch units. Grab a handful from a Nissan in the junkyard. Don't need to do it now of course but cheap relays won't last. If they aren't proud enough to put their name on it......

To be honest, I don't like the pickup swap on my truck, other than having kickass lighting. If I had known that LHD Euro lights were so cheap I would have went that route instead. Derek, I highly recommend staying away from anything with a plastic lense, those Anzo units look cheesey and exactly like the supercheap ebay units. If I were you I'd buy those Euro lights on the auction that Garret posted, especially being that they are meant for LHD traffic and the H4/9003 bulb is superior to the 9004 in every way.

check out some silvia sites as well. People are always putting RB's in their S13/14/15

Subaru has one called Subaru Select Monitor, or SSM. It's a modified version of a standard OBD2 protocol, so any regular scanner works, but having an SSM you get more details out of it. Sounds like this particular Nissan was a lemon. It happens.

Oh wow, so he does! Disregard what I was saying then. What the hell was nissan thinking? Using the 9004 bulb STILL in the newer model? It's the worst headlight design in the history of ever.

a 9004 and 9007 are slightly differently. The way the filaments are set and the lock tabs are placed in the opposite position. Basically you can't easily make a 9007 fit in a 9004 housing. And the beam would be all jacked up from oppositely set filaments. What I recommend, and it's only slightly less ugly than Exploder lights, is to swap out your headlight buckets for the similar body style pickup headlight buckets. This allows you to run any type of H4 replacement housing that fits in the american standard sealed beam. Which I believe there are some after market projector lights in the 7x6 size. Here is a picture of my truck with ebay hardbody grill and aftermarket H4 headlights, not projectors. What you need is the grill and headlight buckets from a Hardbody pickup, you can see the Pathfinder corner markers, but Hardbody ones "fit" the grill better as it's of a slightly different design.