silverton

There is no frame on your 1996 Pathfinder, it's designed and built like a car. If you were rear ended at anything harder than walking speed, it's more than likely totaled. A good way to check if anything is bent too badly is inspect where the door frames meet with the body. Gaps should be even and no air should be able to get in to the cabin, also there should be no added difficulty in the opening and closing of the side doors.

The solenoid is built in, you'll need to replace the whole unit. It is a difficult job in a 4x4 equipped Pathfinder. Easiest to do if you can remove the passenger side motor mount, which involves having something to support the engine from the top. If that's not a feasible plan of action you need to shimmy the starter out of the front. Essentially you work it pass the motor mount and underneath the alternator. Installation is reverse of removal. Good luck!

The same could be said for any dual filament headlight bulb.

just some regular ole plumbers tape on the threads should do you. Don't over tighten though on reinstallation, easily broken, then you're in a whole other heap of trouble.

This popped up in /r/EarthPorn today

With deep enough pockets it can be made to work. Wiring is different from a 9004 to a 9007.

Not without referencing an FSM. I've done so little OBD1 trouble shooting lately. I've hardly so much as driven my pathfinder over the last year (~500 miles) let alone try and fix any of its problems. Aside from the exhaust so I could take it through emissions anyway.

This is where you need MATHS! Low beam headlights are normally on a 10 amp circuit. Low beam headlights are around 55 watts. multiply that by two and you get 110 watts. On a 12 volt system with a 10 amp fuse, that allows for 120 watts. W(atts) = A(mps) x V(olts) So 10 amp for low beam, 15 amp for high beam, then figure out how many watts the electric motors in the levels require

The DOHC cars yes, especially the old EJ25D. The six cylinder Legacy Outbacks are definitely one of those "gotta pull the motor to get the plugs" cars. I recommend staying naturally aspirated with a SOHC engine. I can do the plugs in my Subaru in about 15 minutes, and that's hood up to turn key. I reckon it takes about twice as long on a VG.

If the O2 sensor is so buggered it tells the ECU to lean way out because it's sending a non-existant rich scenario. It could make the cylinder's knock JUST enough to make the sensor throw a code while not fudging performance too terribly.

Why? Take your Pathfinder alternator with maxima pulley back! the monkey's behind the counter aren't going to know the difference.

I know you probably don't need it down there (AWD), but 2009+ Subaru's are really nice, and maintenance is crazy easy! Legacy's are a dream and still get 25-30mpg

That was going to be my guess. the crank angle sensor is essentially inside the distributor with a metal disc with 360 slits and 6 slots and a laser. It's the laser that fails.

We live in a society now that when something breaks, we throw it away and buy a new one! A friend of mine had a Samsung TV for a year and it died. They sent her a check for the amount she paid for it so that she could buy a new one, instead of dealing with the hassle of shipping the TV to replace a $30 part.

I also catch myself staring at the mountain if it's out on my commute to work down the 5.

I'd do what Adam suggested. clear the codes and wait for the light to come back on, and check again. A bad O2 sensor could cause the knock sensor code to be given.

Well driving with your lights on isn't going to make the alternator live a short life. Must have been a defective unit.

Spend the extra bit of coin and get Rancho's.

Doubt it. It's a 25 year old truck. Things like that do not last forever.

Similar things can happen with halogen's yes, but, it's not near as disabling as being forced to look at the arc of an HID bulb. Yeah, that's what BMW's do. I had a friend with one and everytime he started it, the lights would dip super low and come back up.

This was my exact thought when I saw that SVD. Special Vehicle Division? haha! Anyway, you can get that bodykit from classicgarage.com Save 10% by using coupon code SUPRAGROUP

If someone took the crank pulley apart, just like kingman said, it could be reassembled incorrectly.

Scenery is pretty, but your truck looks too small!

My opinion on HIDs is that they are dangerous. For both the driver of the vehicle with HIDs and the other motorists on the road. I wouldn't have a problem if the roads everywhere were perfectly level, but the frequency of having two spots burning my retina's in a similar fashion as to when I stare at the sun on a nice day is not my ideal way of driving at night. Case in point, diptwat had HIDs that were right in face, so I flipped on my high beams. He returned the favor, and I'm glad he did! Because his high beams were halogen's so I was able to see! You might consider me an asshole but I flip to my high beams for EVERYONE who has HIDs, whether it's factory equipment in the vehicle or not. They are too hard on passing motorists, and they make the very front of your vehicle too bright as a driver. Your mind subconsciously (read: you don't control it) focuses on the ~20 foot section of road directly in front of the vehicle, instead of off in to the distance. They should be illegal. source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/disadvantages/disadvantages.html

I've never heard of them. I just buy basic pads for the truck. No need in buying anything fancy as it's never going fast enough for the need of upgraded brakes.