silverton

Says the guy who doesn't wheel his truck. What's the reason for the switch then? Why would Nissan include something to bypass an obvious safety feature? So that curious blokes would use it and take themselves out via natural selection?

Oh really? I was looking in to getting the Super Blue when I upgraded the brakes on my S12, but that was about 2...2.5 years ago.

I believe the parts are only available through Nissan.

I'm just being an ass. Facebook NPORA group member asked why his truck shimmied while in four wheel drive on bare pavement. I said he needed an alignment. He didn't like that answer because he had just gotten one, two weeks ago. But he went wheeling this last weekend, so it should still be good right? That's when I said it's recommended to get an alignment after every trip off road. He still didn't like my answer. That's when another group member popped in and said that I must work at an alignment shop and that I don't know what I'm talking about because he's been wheeling since I was just a baby. Which I'm sure I've done more wheeling in four years than he's done his entire life. Either way, the OP ended up deleting the post after he asked me to stop telling him he needed an alignment.

Right, and the interlock switch bypasses that safety so the truck can be started in gear. A starter is only going to spin the engine at around 200rpm, whereas if you try and use the clutch to obtain that RPM while the engine is running you're going to lug it so hard the pistons slap. Essentially, a built in crawler feature. He's asking what the switch does, and I'm telling him the intended use of it.

I really like the Castrol GT-LMA brake fluid. it's DOT3 with higher specs. If you don't tow anything you'd be fine with just the standard store brand DOT-3. If you tow or just want the extra confidence of a higher rated fluid, get something like the Castrol LMA or if you feel like getting extra crazy, opt for the ATE Super Blue stuff.

I have an automatic, so no I do not. It's not a matter of killing the engine while wheeling. It's being able to spin the engine at low RPM while still having the transmission directly connected to the engine. Too much rpm can cause a tire to just slip and spin, where doing something at a lower RPM can be just what you needed to get over the minivan sized boulder. Why put a second transfer case in a rock crawler? Because then engine RPM's can stay high while wheel speed stays low.

To me the only advantage of having the interlock switch is being able to crawl over obstacles without lugging the engine or causing unneeded wear on the clutch.

I call it a proportioning valve cause it's not much of a "unit" just an annoyance in the brake fluid flow.

I don't know much about the manual gearboxes in these trucks. Is it not the standard 1/2" square hole like most differentials are? Usually have to get a pick or screw driver to clean it out.

Some more information includes, but not limited to, I work at an alignment shop. And someone who is smarter, more experienced, older than me has been wheeling longer than I've been off my mothers tit.

I got an alignment two weeks ago, so the alignment is fine. I took it wheeling this last weekend and had a grand ole time! To get out of my driveway today I needed to put it in four wheel drive. The roads are bare but it shimmys on the road while in four wheel drive. But the alignment should be fine, because I just got it done. WHAT COULD IT BE???

the LoadSensingValve is on pickups only. Basically it increase brake pressure to the rear as there is more and more weight put in the bed of the truck and makes the suspension "sag". The proportioning valve is on Pathfinders and decreases pressure to the rear brakes when it detects a wheel locking under heavy braking.

I'd take it somewhere that has an impact to remove the drain plug. As far as adding fresh fluid to old fluid it should be okay. Just make sure it's the proper GL number because I know the newer stuff will eat the bronze.

A few feet? dang! I know for sure you'll need to disconnect the fuel pump harness which is located just behind the fuel tank on the passenger side. Probably need to disconnect the brake line that goes to the rear axle. I don't know how much extra length there is for the ECU harness that goes through the firewall. The differential breather hoses will probably have to be disconnected as well.

Sounds like you skipped the proportioning valve? It's third in line of the five bleeders. RR, RL, PV, FR, FL. The proportioning valve is on the passenger side frame rail about where the B pillar is.

And I just read your whole post. I don't think you'll get the rears to lock effectively. These vehicles have Rear-ABS so the proportioning valve is going to restrict flow to the drums when the differential's speed sensor detects a lock-up.

Only if you have a Hardbody pickup and not a Pathfinder.

Aren't O2 sensors supposed to make sure the engine is getting the proper amount of fuel?

the latch on my SE is so tight you can see the roof flex when working the latch. Good'n'tight!

Have you replaced the brake pads on it? If so, what did you use? If not, someone probably bought the cheapest pads available to make it look better during an inspection. I recommend replacing the front pads and rear shoes with something of good quality. NOT the $20 pads from autozone.

Wow, that's a good stuck! I can't say a locking rear would have helped much. A winch and a tree saver for sure though! Hard to say if there was a tree there that would handle 8-10k pounds worth of pull though. The truck only weighs 4k but being in mud like that can essentially double your vehicles weight when attempting to pull out.

Like people that replace their airbox with a cone filter in place of it? Yeah... that's a good way to drop 10 horsepower. Might sound cooler, but you're gonna go slower.

And that's three liters of japanese power! Not german or italian. The VG is a sick dog when it doesn't have a turbo charger shoving air down its throat, as was intended when it was designed.

Round dash truck. This has been covered before Adam Take the cluster out and give all the screws on the back about 1/8th to a 1/4 turn to tighten. Report back afterwards.