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silverton

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Everything posted by silverton

  1. Your trucks voltage regulator should be built in to the alternator.
  2. Not sure if I like mine or SilverPath's picture better. I voted for SilverPath but I might retract that so I an take the win! They are from the same day... can't we both win?
  3. That's what 100w high beams are for. They light up the world, I love them in my truck. Much cheaper than what you're doing too! haha
  4. SR20 is a hand grenade with the pin pulled right around 250whp. KA and VG are the last of the "hot roddable" Nissan engines. I respect the KA but I feel it's best NA in a truck. VG is where it's at. pound for pound of boost, it's better than the RB.
  5. I've been in several situations where water has come up over the hood, and I regretted having the windows open. I took a bath that time! After getting home from several a wheelin trip I've had to let it idle with the A/C on blast to dry everything out. Again, incredibly lucky. I even have a ram air scoop snorkel in a box. Just need to be unlazy and work out the plumbing.
  6. I'm sad I never got to ride in, or even SEE, that car James!
  7. My 1991 Ford Escort GT. 1.8L DOHC Mahzduh motor. Actually, the very same one that was in your Miata. Loved this car, so much fun! I had quite a bit done to the suspension, exhaust, whathaveyou. Coming home from a pseudo-vacation in Montana, about 1600 mile round trip, it developed a rod knock. I'll admit I don't know how to drive a five speed, and insisted on changing from a redlined 3rd and going in to 2nd gear. Not once, but twice. And that was the cause of the eventual knocking. I blame the short shifter and being a bit too excited. Anyway! I had all the parts gathered to build a high and extremely fast revving motor using the crank out of a single cam. But then my buddy talked me in to buying a 4x4. And now here I am on this forum! To be honest, I'd rather have the Escort. haha. PS: A rev happy motor going from 8,000 rpm to infinity rpm sounds REALLY cool!
  8. You'd like to think that, but not all bulbs are created equal. Kind of small scale example, BUT, my Subaru's accessory lighting is provided by these tiny 12v bulbs you have to visit a RadioShack for. They're 60mA and on the package is shows their lifespan being ~10,000 hours. I had a couple burn out in only a few months, instead of lasting a bit over a year. So you got to wonder with how quickly those burnt out, how long did the ones that went on forever go to make the AVERAGE 10,000 hours? Another example: I pretty much run the same bulb all the time in my Subaru. The Philips NightGuide. Quality bulb, highly recommend! I've had some last me a couple months, and some last me almost a year. I drive around with my lights on 100% of the time as they come on with the ignition, and I have really stiff suspension which is bad on the delicate filaments.
  9. Headlight filaments are finicky and very fragile. a disturbance in the electrical could cause one to blow. And generally when one headlight goes out it causes such a rush of "extra" current and can over power the other bulb and it generally goes out shortly after. But a low beam going out will not cause a high beam filament to go out and visa versa since that filament in the other bulb is not being powered.
  10. I've been in water up over the tires several times, and on rare occasion have done the submarine thing. No snorkel but I have incredible luck!
  11. That's four cylinder revs right there! Does your truck have the ever so rare and not so sought after KA? I saw an Xterra with a KA in the junkyard once, I had to do a double take and look at the data plate to make sure that's what was meant to be in it!
  12. Or age.... They don't last forever.
  13. Age isn't really the deal any more. Commutes are getting longer, so I'm sure there are a bunch of R50's with my mileage than my WD21. A good way to see if an engine or trans mount is broken is take a good look at your transfer case shifter. With a broken mount it will move so much that it could break your center console if you romp on it hard enough. Normal movement in that shifter when applying brisk throttle is an inch to an inch and a half, and it will move towards the passenger side. If it moves much more than that, there is a problem with a mount. Hard to say which one without actually taking it out and inspecting it. If your motor doesn't rock really bad while cranking, then it could be your transmission mount, but those don't fail all that often. The link bushings are easy to determine. 60mph on the freeway, give it the gusto! Then snap off the throttle. If it changes lanes when you give it the gas, and changes back to the lane you were in to begin with when you let off, that's a rear link bushing.
  14. I rear ended lightly by a 4runner in my old truck and that made the carrier rattle! And then I've backed my current truck in to so many trees, the carrier will never be the same. But it still works!
  15. I swear the last time I drove my truck (Xterra auto with 33's) just a few days ago, the RPMs were somewhere around 1500-1700 @ 60mph. I just remember it being really low cause I was comparing it to my Subaru that does 60 @ 2550 and 70 @ 2975'ish
  16. I'm with Adam, probably a simple fix.
  17. They are to adjust headlight height depending on vehicle load. Most BMW's do it automagically, most others don't. A few of the switches in my 2001 RS are Nissan as well, but that is funny!
  18. I've always liked the FC Chassis. The rebuild interval and low and flat torque line keeps me from having one.
  19. For the record, a vg33e is faster than a vg34i Granted, we didn't really have a fair race cause his rig is always loaded with enough recovery gear to bring the Titanic up. I recommend doing a VG33 swap. It's a piece of cake with the crank adapter and with everything laid out and explained in detail in his build thread, why wouldn't you? Swapping to a TD or VQ engine would require a lot more work since AFAIK no one has done it.
  20. No JW's here! Just those that preach under the almighty Nissan! And a few weirdos that still worship the Datsun.
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