silverton

Similar situation with my second generation Escort GT. I never got around to it but there was a v6 car that had a taller fifth gear that would have netted me lower rpm's for better freeway mileage.

If the throttle opens too fast, you're just going to burn out. Maybe I explained it weird. It's all about throttle response right? Say your car comes with a 60mm throttle body, that's pretty big. But, an NA engine is only going to suck as much air as it physically can. So lets say you upgrade to a 75mm or whatever and the motor is optimal with a 70mm. The engine is going to be at WOT before the pedal is all the way to the floor. What's the point? Now, people get crazy and bigger is better right? Let's put the 90mm throttle body from a Q45 on this thing and still N/A. The engine is going to be wide open before you even reach 50% of the pedal travel. Read this thread from hybridZ, lots of good info: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/54034-big-throttle-bodies-why/

I'm guessing whenever he typed "t" he had meant "truck". Took me a few posts to get that. Good to hear it wasn't anything really major. I haven't touched my truck in about two or three weeks and we've had nothing but freezing weather, I'm hoping I had some sort of antifreeze mixture in it... *shrug*

Probably the rear differential, does it get louder as you go faster and faster? Granted if you can hear it over the wind noise of driving a truck with the aero of a brick.

You're right, I had it backwards. Same concept, wrong direction! That's why dips in the road are so harsh on a lifted truck because of instead of a squishy spring, you're hitting a bump stop.

My gas mileage did not improve, nor decline with a VG33. I did get a chance recently to drive a five speed truck on the street and I definitely prefer its drivability over the automatic. If you wanted to get crazy with it, I believe the five speed was used in several cars as well, maybe you could mix and match the gear ratios you want by tearing in to the transmission.

Take it apart and reseal it.

4 cylinder engines use big MAFs to make them more drivable. Going too large just makes anything undrivable, that's why the Q45 throttle body is not linear. It is interesting that the maxima uses a larger MAF than the other VG equipped vehicles. But it's also interesting that they use the n60 MAF in both the VG30E and the VE30DE. Can't say you'll actually see any improvement in the real world as the restriction in the VG**E is that intake manifold was designed with forced induction in mind.

the stumbling could just be a coincidence. I doubt the seafoam cleaned anything enough to clog the fuel filter, but if you don't know the maintenance on the item, you might as well. Do spark bolts and plug wires as well. Really, just do a full tune up.

I think I had to take my 33x10.50 off when I pulled a 35'ish foot travel trailer.

Just need to know if it's a VG30, or a VG33.

People complain of roughness because they crank it as high as they can, and they run out of travel and ride on the bump stops. Been there, done that. Lifting the front does not allow for more articulation, that's why you can lift the front of the truck and not have to get longer shocks. From the factory there is only X" of travel up and down, I'm pretty sure it's even. When you lift it, you shorten the upward travel, but the down travel is then extended. If that makes sense?

It's not unknown dude. I helped him with his swap, and helped on my swap. the alternator bracket needs to be modified, along with a notch taken out of the water pump. I think he even put up a diagram of exactly how the bracket for the alternator needs to be modified.

You don't need extended front shocks when you do a standard suspension lift. But you do need longer rear shocks. RS5116 (or 5112 if you want extra long ones) is the Rancho part number for extended rear shocks. If you do a body lift, very minor hammering is required to fit 12.50" wide tires. 31x10.50, 32x11.50, and 33x10.50 all fit at stock height. And no modifications are needed on the 33x10.50 if you never plan on taking the truck offroad, otherwise you need to massage the quarter panels a bit for when the wheel gets stuffed in to the fender well. Also, I recommend visiting all of the sub-forums and reading the stickied posts at the top, there is a ton of information and most if not all of your questions have already been answered.

More than likely the cable is snapped, replace it with a junkyard unit if they're abundant enough, otherwise get ahold of a dealer and see if they can find one.

It's necessary with any vg33 in to a vg30 pathfinder. If you look up Mr.510's build on here, you'll see exactly what needs to be done.

Take it from me and two others. Don't run amsoil. And reverse is the primary fail point of the RE in the WD21.

I'm sure the vehicles you have listed in your signature, excluding the Pathfinder, had stuff in the tank, but only due to age. Since Pathfinders are still relatively current and much more strict in build quality that nothing but fuel gets in to the tank unless the operator is careless, like adamzan's dog hairs (WTF?). Stuff just requires too much precision to run correctly for manufacturers to let something as volatile and necessary as fuel to get dirty. It's a pain in the ass to pull a fuel pump on a Pathfinder and drop the tank to be required to clean it.

Yeah, you and David (Mr.510) are my two buddies.

Maybe. Granted this was an extreme case that involved a pound of table salt. But trucks in the junkyard, and you know they're there because they were neglected, had no sediment in the tank.

Honestly, get the VG30 running good before attempting a swap because that can be a whole 'nother can of worms. You can buy a crank pulley adapter from Mr.510 on ebay and you keep all your factory accessories and nothing looks amiss. Which would be good for you since you live in Californistan.

I highly recommend to NOT use Amsoil. Two of my buddies, along with myself are running it, and when cold, the transmission kicks you in the back of the head on up shifts, and once warmed up, the shifts are softer than uhm... well, something really really really soft. Only reason I haven't switched back to a conventional transmission fluid is because the damn jug of Amsoil cost me $100! Also, next time you undertake something like this, look in to swapping out the factory Pathfinder automatic for an 01-04 Xterra automatic. They are much stronger and less prone to failure.

If shifting it from 4wd to 2wd or back lets it move again and you don't notice anything funky in the transmission shifter, I'd say your t-case is well on its way out.

I'm not really sure where this "crud in the tank" thing comes from, but it's largely false. In one day I removed 5 fuel pumps from Pathfinders trying to take the one I thought looked the best for my own truck after the salt incident, and not one tank had any type of sediment in the bottom of it. The bottom of the tank has channels were fuel might sit and isn't allowed to get in to the bowl type area that surrounds the pumps sock filter unless you take corners pretty hard so the sputtering you encountered was in fact no fuel.

When you get an engine imported from JDM land they never know how many miles are on the engine's so they give a guestimate as cars over there are only used until they are broken in, and then get scraped because taxes on older cars is ridiculous, and then the engines get shipped over here. As for Royal Purple, the first time I used it, was also the last time I used it. I lost oil pressure going over the pass and when I got to the bottom I decided to drain it and refill with dino. It came out with a consistency much like water.