silverton

More than likely. But I'd get a set of experienced ears in the passenger seat just to be sure.

The only indication that a side mirror is heated is by looking at the wiring for the mirror, it will have an extra plug.

I love love love my heated mirrors. The heater vents in the dash just don't throw enough heat at the window to defrost the mirrors like most cars and mine definitely get hot to touch. I always cringe when I go wheelin and something gets close to the mirror cause they're hard to find in the junkyard, mostly because the late model WD's aren't there as often.

Sounds like it's going to be more work than the gains you could expect. N/A SOHC VG's just don't breathe well enough and the restriction is not in the air flow meter.

I can't remember, is our MAF flapper door or no? In the Escort GT world we could swap the MAF from an RX7, but we had to open it up and adjust the clock spring that was inside so that the ECU was still seeing the proper signal while no longer having a restriction. Go digging through FSM's and see if the larger MAF's match the voltage output of the factory unit.

Mr.510 is running 34x10.50 Swamper Radials on his truck. Since we both have daily's our trucks are basically just for wheelin now. I think he had to work the lips of the quarter panels just a little bit more over his 33" BFG KO's

I remember when I had a bent exhaust tip, basically looked like a pacman, my truck would sound like a hoover vacuum.

LOL. I couldn't hit the broad side of a barn with a brick apparently. Modifying the device that tells the ECU how much air is moving through it seems quite difficult. Most of the newer turbo charged Subaru's are MAF based and don't have any problems making power, so I doubt it's much of a restriction.

What? Removing the functionality of an SUV over three pounds is totally worth it. Could just be my truck! And to be honest, I haven't been able to check its mileage since swapping the 3.3 in, I don't drive it enough.

round dash trucks are notorious for this behavior. I'm not sure it's so much the voltage regulator on the round dashes as the components just fail. I think the VR thing is on the older square dash trucks.

There isn't really a whole lot you can do to improve the MPG's of a WD21. Start with a two wheel drive model, lower it a bit, get lighter weight wheels, and probably 27" tall tires. and you'd probably get 20-25 with it regularly. I know my Automatic 4x4 SE when it was all stock got 22. Now with heavy 33" mud terrains it gets about 16, maybe.

I love my OBD2 Subaru. No guessing on what to replace when the CEL does happen to come on. It tells you exactly what's wrong.

Similar situation with my second generation Escort GT. I never got around to it but there was a v6 car that had a taller fifth gear that would have netted me lower rpm's for better freeway mileage.

If the throttle opens too fast, you're just going to burn out. Maybe I explained it weird. It's all about throttle response right? Say your car comes with a 60mm throttle body, that's pretty big. But, an NA engine is only going to suck as much air as it physically can. So lets say you upgrade to a 75mm or whatever and the motor is optimal with a 70mm. The engine is going to be at WOT before the pedal is all the way to the floor. What's the point? Now, people get crazy and bigger is better right? Let's put the 90mm throttle body from a Q45 on this thing and still N/A. The engine is going to be wide open before you even reach 50% of the pedal travel. Read this thread from hybridZ, lots of good info: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/54034-big-throttle-bodies-why/

I'm guessing whenever he typed "t" he had meant "truck". Took me a few posts to get that. Good to hear it wasn't anything really major. I haven't touched my truck in about two or three weeks and we've had nothing but freezing weather, I'm hoping I had some sort of antifreeze mixture in it... *shrug*

Probably the rear differential, does it get louder as you go faster and faster? Granted if you can hear it over the wind noise of driving a truck with the aero of a brick.

You're right, I had it backwards. Same concept, wrong direction! That's why dips in the road are so harsh on a lifted truck because of instead of a squishy spring, you're hitting a bump stop.

My gas mileage did not improve, nor decline with a VG33. I did get a chance recently to drive a five speed truck on the street and I definitely prefer its drivability over the automatic. If you wanted to get crazy with it, I believe the five speed was used in several cars as well, maybe you could mix and match the gear ratios you want by tearing in to the transmission.

Take it apart and reseal it.

4 cylinder engines use big MAFs to make them more drivable. Going too large just makes anything undrivable, that's why the Q45 throttle body is not linear. It is interesting that the maxima uses a larger MAF than the other VG equipped vehicles. But it's also interesting that they use the n60 MAF in both the VG30E and the VE30DE. Can't say you'll actually see any improvement in the real world as the restriction in the VG**E is that intake manifold was designed with forced induction in mind.

the stumbling could just be a coincidence. I doubt the seafoam cleaned anything enough to clog the fuel filter, but if you don't know the maintenance on the item, you might as well. Do spark bolts and plug wires as well. Really, just do a full tune up.

I think I had to take my 33x10.50 off when I pulled a 35'ish foot travel trailer.

Just need to know if it's a VG30, or a VG33.

People complain of roughness because they crank it as high as they can, and they run out of travel and ride on the bump stops. Been there, done that. Lifting the front does not allow for more articulation, that's why you can lift the front of the truck and not have to get longer shocks. From the factory there is only X" of travel up and down, I'm pretty sure it's even. When you lift it, you shorten the upward travel, but the down travel is then extended. If that makes sense?

It's not unknown dude. I helped him with his swap, and helped on my swap. the alternator bracket needs to be modified, along with a notch taken out of the water pump. I think he even put up a diagram of exactly how the bracket for the alternator needs to be modified.