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JamesRich

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Everything posted by JamesRich

  1. Damn that thing looks near new and only 71k on the clock! James
  2. Your first idea of using a trans cooler would work just fine and one of those should be alot easier to find in a junkyard. James
  3. Here's a screen shot of my "true life numbers" of sucky fuel mileage since I bought my truck. I use an excel spread sheet I got from another forum. You have to stay on top of it and get a receipt from every fillup and write your mileage on the receipt. It's cool to look back on, you can see when I first bought it it ran like crap and had a fuel leak at the tank. After tuneup it got a little better, then you can see when I started with the first highway trips. The last fillup my wife had been driving it too. I guess I need to stop running it to the floor all the time and I might get better mileage. I see now I must have screwed something up on this spreadsheet though. The one for my titan shows totals at the bottom row instead of average. James
  4. That's the A/C evaporator. It's pretty simple to remove but you will have to let out your refrigerant and then have it recharged when you finish. James
  5. That sounds really good for a 6 cyl. Is your Chicago typewriter in the back seat? James
  6. It will bolt to the motor but the van is a front sump pan. James
  7. The best route would be to strip it down to just block and heads and then put all the accessories from your motor on it, this way you know everything will fit back in the way your motor came out. You won't have to worry about oil leak either. Replace your cam and crank seals (front and rear) also. James
  8. That sucks! I was thinking about trying a set from them. Less than half the price of Jim Wolf is kind of appealing. James
  9. I was going to swap the A/C compressor from my parts truck. I also want to swap the low pressure line because it's made different to go around the MPFI intake tube for when I finally get around to changing the fuel injection. Then I noticed that the compressor sits lower on the MPFI and I will have to change all the brackets too. So I closed both hoods and went sit on my butt in my house. James
  10. The resistor in my 87 was open for crap to fall on it. The resistor from the 94 parts truck I bought has a mesh cage around it so nothing can actually touch the resistor wire. Might be a good idea for the older WDs to watch your pick a part for the newer WDs and get yourself a resistor with the mesh cage. James
  11. Even better than pee is sardine juice. They will have to pull the A/C box to clean that smell out! James
  12. I guess I'm not up on all the young people slang, but what the hell does that mean? James
  13. "Drove it like you stole it" is the only way to drive this truck and not get run over by other people like me in faster vehicles! James
  14. I'm not sure how the manufacture recommends it to be plumbed but I was always told to route to the auxiliary cooler first then to the cooler in the radiator. This way if it's really cold the radiator helps warm up the transmission. James
  15. That's what I got! I bought these because it was the best price I could find, $140 a piece down here. But after reading review I see it's a really good tire. They pull good in the mud, I haven't gotten stuck yet to use my winch. The on road performance is ok, they are squishy and sway some but nothing bad. Even my wife enjoys driving it. As for snow performance I couldn't tell you, hell will have to freeze over before we get snow on the ground here. James
  16. I've heard people say that the tire has to make one revolution before the hub will lock, but I think y'all mean the axle. I have driven in some soft mud in 2wd and got stuck where it wouldn't move. I put it in 4 wheel drive and I hear the hubs click when they engage but they grab right away. It wouldn't do you any good once your stuck if the tire had to roll some before the hub would lock. James
  17. If you have the 3.5 your looking at $1200 just for the 4 cams from Jim Wolf. James
  18. Not really, she has the headlight reminder on her van and I still have to jump it off occasionally. James
  19. It does get annoying but instead of ripping it out you can unplug it from the ignition switch under the column. This way the bell will still warn you about leaving the headlights on (if your wife drives your truck) but won't annoy you when the key is in the ignition and the door open. James
  20. Holy @!*%! I'm sure it's coming down here too. Right now its around $3.74. We should have the cheapest price, our state produces a lot of oil, aside from what we don't spill that is. I'm about to start doing that, if I can find a seat that doesn't feel like I'm being raped. Save on gas and get back in shape. I'm only 6 miles from work so 12 miles a day.
  21. If you have a pick a part close, Q45 injectors are 370cc. Not 500+ but still double your stock size. $5 apiece at pick a part. Not sure about the impedance though. James
  22. Use silicone grease, not a hardening sealant. You don't want to glue it closed. Lol! Anything to just add a little moisture to the rubber. James
  23. Definitely air left in the system, I just finished fighting this issue. It seemed no matter how much I bled it it was the same. What I did to finally get all the air out was gravity bleed the damper. Every day before driving it or even pushing the pedal I would crack the bleeder on the damper and a few air bubbles would come out. After 3 days it was good. For some reason pumping and bleeding it the conventional way was foaming up the fluid and I could never get all the air out. I think it has something to do with the way the line comes off the master cylinder and goes up instead of down. James
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