- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
-
Posts
1,710 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by JamesRich
-
Then there is always this if you have an iphone. Spot connect
-
Here is a cool setup for onboard. Dual 444 I made some tanks from 4" muffler pipe years ago, I should be able to find somewhere to hide them under the pathy. James
-
Ok now I'm looking for an air compressor! Searching online I see the master flow 1050 is pretty popular but on their site Q&A page they say the compressor isn't designed for filling a tank. What are you guys using? I'd like to buy this one Warn but it's too big and draws too much amps. James
-
Remove the sway bar from the axle and loosen all your swing arm. Also remove the axle breather tube, unbolt the brake line junction block from the axle, and unbolt the Ebrake cable rubber guide loops. Once you get the new springs in set it down before tightening the swing arms. I wouldn't get under there without jack stands either. I bought some large 6 tons at pep boys for $40 a pair. Cheaper than the emergency room or a funeral. James
-
turn the stripped bolt with a center punch. Drive the center punch into the side of the bolt head on one of the flats. Once you have a good depression in the bolt head angle the center punch so when you hit it it unscrews the bolt. I've had to do this many times on fords, the nuts they use on their torque converters are very soft. James
-
20 psi should at least give me a better ride. When you have 5 miles to go through the woods to your hunting spot you don't want to do it at 15 mph, so on the open trails I'll hit 45 sometimes and its rough as hell with 40 psi in the tires. No more jumping hills though or I'll end up with more than a broken spring! James
-
Thanks for all the replys. I never aired down before because I'm new to wheeling. I have a locker and hankook M/Ts. I never got stuck yet but it took a lot of spinning to get out of some deep sand. A few mud holes required a lot of spinning to get out too that might not have if I had aired down. These hankooks are pretty soft so I might not have to go very low on the pressure to make them flex. I guess the first thing I need to do is the chalk line test to make sure I'm not running too much pressure on the road. Then do the test from the article for rim hight. First thing I really need to do is buy a on board compressor. James
-
I've read the chalk line test already, that just seems like a lot of mileage from an a/t. James
-
I was looking up how low to drop tire pressure for sand and found this article. Letting the Hot Air Out of Tire Talk I need to find his article on street pressure because he claims to get 60k to 80k out of BFG T/As with the proper pressure. I agree with what he states but 7 to 8 psi is not much pressure, I would be worried about popping a bead off. Now I'm ready to go back to my hunting camp to try airing down for the sand. What pressure do most of you guys run when you air down? James
-
Good luck with that! I have the same problem only mine is the drain plug. I finally gave up and used a small hand pump to suck all the oil out through the fill plug. You could just drain yours and then put 5 qts through the shift tower like we have to do with our WD21. James
-
Now you have to keep the pathy. James
-
I used a whole felpro set when I pulled the heads off my wife's 01 quest. That was a little over 40k miles ago. This was before I found out that felpro head gaskets weren't good for a VG. I always spray head gaskets with copper coat though, and everything is holding up so far. James
-
what were your pressures at with the gauge set? If your high pressure is up around 200 or higher and your low below 20 to 25 at 65* your expansion valve could be stuck. When checking pressure with gauges always run the blower on high with the door open and not on recirculate. The colder it gets inside the vehicle the lower the pressure will get. You could check for leaks with soap and water over the connections you can see but it could leak somewhere you cant reach. I never found a leak detector that worked worth a crap. The die works pretty well to find leaks but it has oil in it so you are adding more oil to your system. James
-
What kind of coils are those? they look like variable rate springs. The factory jeep coils I pulled aren't like that.
-
Though they are almost the same length the spring rates are different. You need to measure the actual wire diameter with dial calipers. The stock pathy springs are around .500 and the V8 GJC coils have a wire diameter around .580 to .600 James
-
I lifted the rear on mine with V8 GJC springs and 96 F150 4X4 rear shocks. You have to press out the lower rubber bushing and reuse the bushings from you stock shocks. The last one I bought was a monroe for $24 each. The front torsion bars are fine you just need aftermarket upper control arms. James
-
Finally got a rear D44
JamesRich replied to RedneckDave's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Never mind, I found it with google. D30, which I read in other post isn't strong enough to be worth the trouble. James -
Sounds like you found a good mechanic! Hope it solves you MPG problem too. James
-
SAS and engine swap WD21
JamesRich replied to daver123's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Holy crap! That tranny probably weights more than the VG30 and original trans the pathy came with together! You shouldn't be able to break it though. James -
Finally got a rear D44
JamesRich replied to RedneckDave's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
What size is the front axle on a Cherokee or grand Cherokee? The pick a part is always full of those. Only other problem I see would be the spindle. James -
From my experiences that doesn't always hold true. In american vehicles with the orifice tube to regulate the flow it does because it's a set size. On imports with an expansion valve the valve opens or closes to adjust the flow and usually keeps the temp around 50 degrees. Most of the imports I've converted would hold that 50 degrees even at an idle. My 06 titan with auto climate control will only blow 50 degrees out of the vents. I agree R12 does have the ability to get colder than 134 but it doesn't make a difference in a system with and expansion valve. I remember a Lincoln town car I worked on back in the early 90s, R12 with an orifice tube. In the shop idling on max recirculate with the blower on low speed it blew 17 degrees out of the vents. I never got a 134 system to blow that cold. James
-
With that many guns on it no one would notice the color of it! James
-
both of mine fell out too. I used a plastic body rivet to replace them. Just find one that fits snug in the hole. You probably will have to re adjust the switch after. The button on the switch should be pressed all the way in but should not stop the pedal from coming all the way up. Lowes has a good selection of these. James
