JamesRich

I think you might have got it! I had looked at the coil wire where it touches the A/C bracket but it looked good. I just went cut a piece of fuel line to slit and put around the coil wire, and cut the S#!T out of my trigger finger in the process because I was in a hurry and just used my pocket knife. Figures because I'm about to leave to go sight in my hunting rifle for this season, should make it more interesting. After isolating the wire with the piece of hose it started right up like it normally does. I'll take it to work a few days next week and hope for the best. The tach didn't jump when I was cranking it over it just jumped when it shut down running down the highway at 60. It was jumping back and forth from 0 to 5k. The inside of the cap and the rotor still look new as there are very little miles on them. Hopefully it was just the coil wire rubbing, I will see. Thanks guys! James

When I got my pathy I gave it the works, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, T belt, and O2 sensor. This was around a year and a half ago and around 5k miles. She alway ran great and started right up. Last week I stopped at the post office and when I got back in it would turn over just not start. After around a minute of cranking it started and would die at idle. Started it again and got it rolling and then it ran fine. Left work to go home it ran fine most of the way then lost all power and the tach was jumping for a couple of seconds then ran fine again. It did this a couple of times. I started it the next day and it cranked over for around 20 seconds then started and ran normal. I thought it was fuel related but with the tach jumping it would have to be ignition. I know they have problems with the distributors so I took it apart to check the optical sensor and everything in there looked new. No shaving, no slack in the shaft, not even dusty in there. Intermittent problems are a real bitch to find and I'm worried it leaves me on the road, or 5 miles back in the woods! Anyone recognize this problem from having it on there pathy? James

I went to the pick a part and pulled a J30 ECU and took some pictures then came home and compared them to pictures on the web. It looks like the same case but the board is different. The Z32 board has the removable eprom and has wires going to another half sized board also mounted in the case. The J30 board doesn't have the removable eprom, just the 40 pin blank for adding in a daughter board. So the J30 doesn't look like another option. This ECU was from a 95, an older model might be different. Here is the J30 ECU And a pic off the web of a Z32 ECU James

With Rob's part number, look what I found.http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts/nissan-hub-assy-free-running~40250-s3900.html Not much more than a set of warns. James

That's why you need an xterra rack in front of it! James

The 28 splines in the picture above came from a 95 D21 with a 4 cylinder. So from 94 up they used the same hub for the 4 cyl and V6? James

Hey guys, I have a question on the factory manual hubs. I found a set of 95 28 spline hubs and another member found a set of 27 splines so we swapped. The outsides of the hubs look identical but the insides are very different. I was thinking they would have been the same inside accept for the spline hole. This is a picture of the two meshing gears in the 28 splines. The two gears are in a separate housing and are held together with a snap ring. And here is a picture of the 27 splines. The outer gear doesn't come out of the main housing like the 28 spline version. The 27 splines look like all the pictures posted by other members on this forum, but I have never seen a pic like the 28 splines. The gears in the 28 splines are much bigger and should be alot stronger. Are these both factory nissan hubs? Did they build them beefier in the 28 spline version? James

The J30 should be the same ECU as a Z32 right? It has the VG30DE. The local pick a part has a 93, 94, and a 95 right now. Think they would be worth grabbing? James

I wish you luck with your install, I know you put a lot of work into where you are at so far. I hope the rest goes smooth for you. If I was local I'd go give you a hand. James

That thing sounds good! James

Well everyone has an opinion, almost all the newer trucks are all plastic inside. Either plastic or the old 70 model chevy with the painted steel dash, if you hit it with a sharp edge it will scratch. I love my titan as much as my pathy. My titan is an LE crew so its the heaviest of the three models (except for the long bed model) just a little over 5200#. It pulls an 8000# camper for me on some weekends and has played at the track on other weekends. One run in the winter time I got a 14.89 quarter mile, in summer time 15.09. Not bad for a 5200# truck with just a few mods. Anyone that knows about racing knows that a full size truck running in the 14s is pretty good. If a titan is not for you that's your prerogative just don't criticize mine from just watching the speedometer. James

It starts at 15 mph because if I punch it at a dry stop it won't quit spinning. If you'll notice even at 15 it spun and the slip light was flashing. No need to criticize because you don't have one. You might think the needle isn't swinging fast but it marks 140 not 100. I know it's not nearly as impressive as your 26 second 0-60 video but believe me I haven't lost any street races around here with it. James

I'll play, but I'm gonna cheat! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyG9HdRyVR8 James

At work we have all these stupid safety classes and they told us if you get frustrated (their nice word for pissed off) to walk away and take a little break. I asked them if they would pay me to walk around the shop all day, The safety guys don't find things like this amusing! James

Yes that sensor is the cylinder head temp sensor and its very important! don't worry about the old one, take the opportunity to put a new one while it's easy. They are not easy to change once the motor is fully assembled. James

That is beautiful country out there! Good looking pathy too. James

Also check the hoses at the fill neck to the top of the tank. James

All the info for testing the various sensors and the distributor is in the FSM. There is a download link in the garage if you don't have it. James

If you look close at his picture of the crank, there is a shoulder right in front of the oil pump seal. When you tighten the balancer down it pinches the timing gear against this shoulder and holds it solid. A keyway is for indexing only and not for holding something in position. If the balancer is not tight enough it allows the timing gear to bounce back and forth on the keyway until something like this happens. The balancer could have spun to but it is more of a press fit instead of slip fit. Also the balancer is turning the accessories so it has a constant force in one direction holding it against the keyway. If you ever turned a camshaft by itself you'll see it has three positions it wants to stop in from pressure from the valve springs. These positions cause the cams to want to bounce back and forth when its running. James

It looks like the balancer didn't spin but just the timing belt gear. This usually happens from the crank bolt not being tightened enough. The sensor on the head looks like a cylinder head temp sensor which your 95 truck shouldn't have. My guess is the key sheared and let the timing belt slip and probably bent all the valves. So the PO got a set of head off of another vehicle to put back on. The CHT switch on older pathys is usually yellow so the heads probably came from some other type Nissan with a VG. Welding the chipped area is your best solution. If your key is tight you should have a permanent repair. Just make sure your crank bolt is torqued properly.

I've never run a A/T but one positive thing I've found with these hankook M/Ts is they don't hydroplane. I've hit some large puddles on the road and it doesn't even pull the wheel to one side. James

Yea thats much easier than just turning the switch on and then off. James

That's two things I can never seem to do when working on my pathfinder! I have to make sure I don't have any big hammers close by before I start. James

So I guess that's a negative, only the newer R50s came with intermittent and the mist feature. Kind of sucks when you get spoiled to certain options and then have to do without. James

Do any of the WDs have intermittent wipers with mist position where you just push it up and it springs back? I got used to this on my titan when you just need the wipers every now and then. On the pathy I have to just turn them on and right back off. It would be nice to be able to swap a switch from maybe a newer WD. James