JamesRich

With the front tires and the plastic guards removed it wasn't too bad. You'll need a swivel and long extensions though. The worst one was the one under the air box. After removing all the bolts from the mount you'll have to remove the lower aluminum bracket to get the mount out. You don't need to jack the motor for the two mounts that bolt to the trans, just for the ones directly under the motor. I did the CV boots a while back, they aren't bad either. You don't even loose any trans oil when you pull the shafts out. On the pathy if I have to pull the torsion bars to get the tranny out, it's time for some sway-aways! James

$1800 for my 87 two years ago with 106K. It needed front end work that I didn't know about and it ran like crap. I swapped all the front end parts with parts from a cash for clunkers truck from the pick a part. Changed timing belt and gave it a major tune up and it runs great! 116K now and still running good. I probably put another $2K in repairs and upgrades since I got it so I'm somewhere around $4k invested but it has served me well as a hunting truck which is the whole reason I bought it. James

Where do y'all find this stuff? I'd like to try the chocolate bacon! James

I made my pathy jealous so it decided to get back at me! Sunday I worked on my 01 quest. I changed the oil, changed both front and rear sway bar end links, and three of the motor mounts so the motor quits flopping around. Drove the pathy to work Monday and the pilot bushing that would squeal every now and then is now squealing steady as long as I hold the clutch in! I really hate to go through all that work to change such a cheap part but I guess now I have to. James

Just a tip about running it through the vacuum line. Don't use the brake booster line, try to get it through the PCV line even if you have to add a piece of hose to it to reach. The sludge your trying to clean out all came in as oil vapors through the PCV. By poring the seafoam in through the PCV your starting at the source of the sludge. James

I'll have to agree with you to not use a trailer if you don't know what your doing, because it sound like you don't know what your doing! If your attention span is so small that you can't watch a truck and a trailer at the same time you shouldn't be driving at all. Uhaul tells you no more than 45mph for liability reasons because they know people with short attention spans will be pulling them. A properly loaded trailer in good condition will handle fine at highway speeds. You don't see 18 wheelers doing 50 on the interstate do you? (unless its from JB Hunt) When my titan was new someone pissed me off by speeding up when I tried to pass them while pulling my 20 foot trailer. When the computer shut me down at 110mph I thought about the bias ply tires not being able to handle that speed but there was no problems unless I had to stop fast. As for hitching them up it something you learn or get a spotter. Trailers are very helpful if you know how to use them. Ever tried loading a riding mower in the back of your truck? I've seen videos of the ramps falling off while people were going up and they landed on their head with the mower on top of them. With the trailer just drop the gate and drive it up. The single axle trailer in the pic you posted will ride pretty ruff and bounce a lot. A double axle trailer will ride smoother than your pickup as long as it has trailer tires on it. James

Now I see why my ancestors moved here from Nova Scotia! I don't think it's ever gone below 0 here. The coldest I remember is 15F and that's plenty cold enough for me! James

Cool! I can't wait to hear how it works too! I hadn't heard of anyone that actually bought one. It will probably feel like a 50hp difference when you turn it on because the engine will go from struggling to suck air through that restrictive squirrel cage to getting all the air it needs. James

That sounds pretty bad! The way it quiets down when you rev it suggest a lifter that is just totally collapsing at idle. It's loud enough to be a rod knock too. Do you hear it more on top or under the truck? If on top more on the passenger side or driver side? If you hear it more under the truck I would say it's a rod knock but a rod knock will get louder under load. If it's on top I'd go with a lifter but if it's collapsing that bad it could damage your cam if it hasn't already. James

Were the different models year specific? Anyway to know which ones to look for? James

Welcome These old nissan trucks are addicting! I bought mine as a hunting truck and was planning to just leave it at the hunting camp and not even put insurance on it. I love driving it so much I leave my 06 titan le parked and drive the pathy almost every day. I hardly even ride my boulevard 109 anymore thanks to the pathy. James

One of my other rides to work is a mongoose. It's 6 miles to work if I take the safe route. I try to ride at least 3 times a week but lately the weather won't give me a break. I can handle the cold but not the rain. James

Nice truck for a dodge! Dodge isn't afraid to use a solid front axle on a truck either. James

I found a cracked copy of gibbs but the milling side ain't that easy to learn by yourself! The problem is they own espree cam and will want me to learn that. The way a programmer friend of mine described it was like trying to scratch your right ear with your left hand but reaching around the back side of your head. He said gibbs is way more superior but I'm sure these guys won't want to spend the money on the software. For a large company we got some idiots in charge! Someone blew some smoke up their but and told them this espree was the best out there and they believe anything a salesman tells them. I spotted a mosin nagant in one of your sculptures! James

Looks Great! James

It's a mazak integrex 650, I posted a pic of it on the first page of this thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28702&view=findpost&p=548961 I do all the programming in mazatrol but the 5 axis work is done with gibbs cam by another programmer and I just test pilot. I am working on moving into the programming office. I have used Gibbs before but just for 2D lath parts. Standing behind this machine all day does get old when I have some run times over an hour per part. James

So you had to narrow it? James

The first year titan built by american workers had a lot of bolts they didn't turn. Lots of rattles in the dash and other places and when you took them apart you would find bolts that were started and never tightened. I kept my first titan, an 04 for 17 months and still don't know why I bought another one after the problems I had with the first one. This one has been better. James

It's a collet for something. I like to see parts we make get assembled but most of the time we just get a print and some material and make a part. Don't know what it is for just as long as it is made to the print. James

Here is a video showing some 5 axis moves on a fixture. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym4vf-bPJbM The fixture is for holding a finished flapper to true the sealing face. The flapper and seat have to hold at least 25 inches of vacuum with a metal to metal seal. You can see in the video that my main problem with this machine is clearance. It has a 24" chuck so I have to stick my tools out far for clearance and then I have problems with tool performance. When it comes to just lath work. The mill head holds the turning tools. The machine has an 80 tool changer on one side, and holds three large boring bars at the back side of the cabinet. It holds OD tools with the mill head at 45 degrees and ID tools at 0 degrees. Then when I need a really big boring bar, it holds it under the spindle. This video is just showing tool changes. It starts off with an OD turning tool then changes to a 2 3/8" x 14" boring bar, then goes get a 3" x 30" boring bar. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJo-59cxd_U One thing that has kept me at this job so far is running this machine. There are only 3 in our shop and I worked my way onto one before I was here 6 months. James

I finally got some video of the machine I run in action and a few pics of some of the real difficult parts I make. Earlier in this thread I posted a pic of a seal flapper I made, this is the seat it fits on. I do a lot of parts where I do the lath work and milling in the same setup. This was a labor intense part. Most of the work was done in this position. The inside slots at the front of the part were cut with a right angle attachment. This was a really weird part. This was my setup and the finished part. I cut the extra pieces off by hand. This is a really big part, here is a comparison shot with a Dr Pepper can of the rough stock after a light turn to true it up.

I couldn't get my drain plug out either. I bought a cheap gear oil pump at autozone that is meant to screw on top of your gear oil bottle. Pull the short hose off the suction side and put the long hose that was meant for the discharge side on the suction side. If the long hose has a barb fitting for holding it in a fill hole pull that off. Now shove the long hose to the bottom of the trans through the fill hole and pump till you can't get any more oil out. Then fill through the shift tower. Next time your tranny is out drill out the plug. James

Note to self; Self move to Denver Crawlerado for a few months. I will have to wait for the summer though, I like the cold but I don't think a cajun will do good in the snow! James

Everyone wishes he was their neighbor! He could help me enlarge my fenders on my two door so I could put some oversized tires and kill the little bit of power I have left! James

It sounds like your starter motor and the solenoid are bad. You would need an inductive amp meter to test the starter. You hold it over the starter positive cable and get someone to turn it over. A good starter shouldn't draw more than 150 amps. I have seen bad starters that would drag but still start the motor peg my amp meter at 600 amps. Also if the contact plate in the solenoid is worn when the solenoid pushes the bendix out into the flywheel and the contact plate doesn't connect it won’t turn over. When you let off the key if the bendix pulls back the solenoid will activate again. If the bendix gets stuck in the flywheel teeth, because it didn't turn, then nothing will happen when you hit the key again because the solenoid is already in the activated position. By rolling the vehicle you must have turned the engine a little and allowed the bendix to retract. I'm pretty sure a new or rebuilt starter should fix your problem. James