JamesRich

If your truck doesn't have the BPT valve and removing the EGR doesn't cause a CEL light then your good already. This idea is only for the guys having CEL problems after removing the EGR. The FSM should have impedance values for a good sensor, just use a large resistor like a 2 or 3 watt. James

You might be able to replace the EGR temp sensor with a resistor to avoid the cel light after removing the EGR. Someone with a working EGR system would need to test the impedance of the EGR temp sensor with the engine at operating temp to determine what resistor to use. James

The only thing my wife would want a 4 wheel drive for would be to park on the curb at the mall to get a closer spot. James

Been there, done that! I put stillen ground effects on my 86 ford ranger. A week and a day after I got it out the shop I was at a beach for the 4th and a drunk ass bumped me from behind at a stop sign, he said I stopped too fast at a stop sign! It looked like just a tiny dent below the tail light but my body man showed me where the fender bowed out from the impact. Cost $700 to fix. Definitely build some kind of support under whatever you put. James

I washed mine today! She hasn't moved in almost a month because the pilot bearing is squealing really bad. I was going to drive it last week anyway but all the brake fluid leaked out of the master cylinder. I knew it had a leak but didn't think it leaked while sitting. I ordered a new pilot and throw out bearing and some sway-a-ways. No sense putting the old torsion bars back on. Also ordered a master cylinder for rear disk and some rear caliper rebuild kits and I will pull the rear disk off my parts truck and put them on my 87. I got a lot of work to do, lucky for me winter is gone! James

Those holes are for different mounting options in different vehicles. Your good. James

So that is a doe with horns? She has two racks! James

You probably have air in the system like the other guys stated but if you haven't messed with any of it there is a reason it got the air in it. It could be the slave or the master letting air passed the seals when you release it. If they are both old I would replace them both. I recently did this on my pathy. I got them both from rockauto for $30, couldn't beat that deal! Bleeding them is a real pain the damper traps air. I would let it sit for a while and then crack the damper bleeder without depressing the pedal. Every time a little air would come out. Eventually no more air would come out and I haven't had a problem since. James

Before you go screwing with the wife's vehicle remember, woman get their revenge when you go to sleep! James

I understand the look you are talking about and think it would look good on a street truck. The pathy is my first four wheel drive, I was always into lowering my trucks too. My titan is lowered in the back to level it out. The problem though is unless you can mold your own body panels your probably out of luck. Post some pics if you mod something. I think your truck looks awesome like it is but smoothing out the rear would look good. James

Make sure they are from a V8 cherokee. If you have a pair of calipers the wire diameter should measure around .6. The L6 GJC wire diameter isn't much larger than our factory springs and won't give you much lift at all. James

Did you check your coil? The have been know to stop working when they get hot. James

I don't think bypassing the cooler is a good idea either especially for the guys up north. Just think how flexible those rubber lip seals on the clutch pistons will be at 10* to 15*. The best setup when adding a external cooler is to put the auxiliary cooler getting the oil first then to the cooler in the radiator. This way if the external cooler removes too much heat the radiator will warm it back up. If your worried about clogging just change your oil more often. Oil is cheap, I change it every time I change my engine oil on my quest. Most nissans only have a screen filter so it doesn't need to be changed unless your trans is shot already. Just drop the plug while draining your engine oil, then top it off just like the engine. Your not changing all the oil each time but your getting fresh additives each time. My quest is almost to 160k and still shifts fine. My quest is 11 years old and I've had it since it was new. The price of the trans is now the value of the van. I know the VG will run forever but when the trans goes it would cost more than the van is worth to fix it so I'm taking care of it. James

I wanted to do that too because I'm too scared to ride the bike up a ramp into the back of my titan. My bike has a big fat ass though weights 750#. That's too much for even a class 4 hitch. James

Ok I just looked at the 87 schematic and it's a one wire too. The one I had trouble with was a mitsubishi. It had 12 volts to one terminal from the fuse box and the other terminal was ground from the horn button. If I hooked the hot wire to the chevy horn it would stay on. I had to use a relay and trigger the ground. James

Did you have to use a relay? Most import vehicles have two terminals, one hot all the time and a ground to actuate. The chevy horn should just have one positive terminal. I've done the swap before using a relay but it took more than four minutes. James

Those are supposed to be pretty tough but I hear they are heavy too. So when are we going to see a pic of this smoking a front tire on a tree root? James

Contact Steeevo at rugged rocks. Last I heard he was waiting on 3 more people to commit to get the headers made. He needs at least 10 sets to get DT to make them because they are not in production anymore. Use a unibit step drill to drill the holes for a nice round hole. If you use a regular twist drill on thin metal it will jump around and give you a jagged hole. Then put some threaded rivet nuts so you can remove it easily. This is the same way nissan mounted it on the xterra but they used a hex shaped rivet nut to prevent turning which would require a punch to make the hole. You can get the step drill and the rivet nuts at harbor freight for pretty cheap. I sealed mine with window caulk, some silicone mixtures will eat through paint and rust the metal. James

The UNCC test mule! If it gets the UNCC stamp of approval We know it's tough! James

That's awesome! You must have a hell of a lot of equipment in your shop. I've been waiting for several months now on steeevo's group buy for DT headers, I guess it's not going to happen. James

I had thought of trying this when I first got my pathy, it is setup just like the old 70s and early 80s Chevrolet trucks. I just went ahead and bought the grassroots link because everyone that had one liked it. Two years latter it's still tight. Heavy wheeling will tell if this will hold up and not bend. James

I'm sure these tie rod ends y'all speak of fit the larger taper on 94 and 95 models right? James

It looks good even with the xterra emblem! I was just giving you a hard time. The emblem on mine was all faded so I sanded it off and repainted it. James

For a good comparison shot plug one light into the factory harness and one into the relay harness. James

Your not supposed to put it on with the xterra emblem on it! Take that back off and paint it! Lol! Everything went ok? James