JamesRich

The lifters are what is causing the ruff running for the first few seconds when you start it. When they collapse they don't open the valves as far as needed. With some collapsed and some still pumped up your engine is running off balance till they all pump up. My 87 does this sometime and other times it doesn't. From what I've read searching its kind of common so I just ignore it. Now if they continue to click for a while after its running then you might look into changing them but they aren't cheep. The high idle is probably a vacuum leak. Check the hoses under the air cleaner and there is a vacuum tree behind the throttle body. Also check all the pollution crap on the fender on the drivers side, I had a leak there too. James

It looks really good, I like the low with big tires look. James

So after cutting it the way you want you just massage the inner fender up to meet the outer and weld it back together? James

I understand the cruise not working is a problem. Got to have cruise control! James

I finally stuck my pathy good! Boredom and stupidity don't mix. I knew this already but I keep testing the theory. While hunting it started to rain, and I mean a good one! I finally gave up on it stopping and decided to head in. On my way out I pass an old oil rig location with a big mud hole. I have played in this hole before but never went all the way through to the other side. Note: old oil rig locations have sticky slimy mud! The pics are blurry I guess because it was raining and starting to get dark. Right before coming out the other side there is a deep spot, once the front dipped in that was it. All it would do was spin. I tried tacking it out in third gear to try to clean the grips but it wouldn't even dig itself deeper. That’s some sticky mud! Even after I winched it out the deep hole and it sat in 2 inches of water it still wouldn't pull it's self out. I discovered this after I respooled the winch cable and save the strap and gloves. Once I finally got it to where it had traction I was in the middle of a bunch of pine trees with no trail. I made a new trail jumping about ten downed trees on the way. My gear in the back was hitting the roof on a few of them. I must have looked like you northern guy jumping rocks! It would have made a good nissan commercial. Bury it in the mud, winch it out, jump several logs on the way out, drive 5 miles back to camp, then drive 70 miles back home with zero problems. I was out there by myself, in the rain and it was almost dark. While stretching out the cable I couldn't help thinking about the scene from jurassic park with the jeep. Only difference was I was packing heat! If that little lizard would have come up on me like in the movie, we would have had him for dinner! A Cajun will eat anything at least once. James

I'm not positive but I think the ECM reads the speed from the instrument cluster not the speed sensor on the trans. So like 1994SEV6 said "the sensor that reads the sensor". The trans sensor runs the electronic speedometer and apparently there is a sensor on the speedometer that sends a signal to the ECM. From what I've been told from Jim Wolf, no speed signal won't affect the way it runs, it will just trigger the light. When they put a nissan engine in an alternate application like sand rails or buggies they leave out a lot of un necessary sensors and just ignore the codes for them. James

Those look just like the factory nissan sensors. Now someone creative needs to find a place to mount the control in a WD so I can get one. These systems do have a purpose even if you check your air pressure every day. I picked up a nail on the highway one time after driving for an hour. It let me know I had a problem before I ruined a $200 tire. On my pathy with a lockright in the rear if I run one rear tire low I could screw up the locker. The tires I run are soft so I might not notice any more sway from a low tire. James

That looks awesome! I wonder how low it will read, for like when you air down would it give accurate reading? Kind of sad you get the whole system for $155 and when I had a factory sensor fail on my titan it cost $95 just for the sensor and another $85 to install it and program. And mine won't tell me how much pressure in each tire or which one is low. I just get a light telling me to pull over and kick the tires! James

It's sad to see all the pathys go through the pick a part down here and end up getting crushed with perfect frames, while you guys are fighting these rust problems. It's humid down here but with no salt on the road I have never seen a rusted frame on anything in the scrap yards. James

I don't have a picture of mine but it's just lines and wires coming out of the layer of mud! Lol! I thought my tank was leaking too for over a year. I finally found the return line from the front was leaking. I put a new piece of hose with two clamps on each side and that fixed it. Also if it's worse when you fill it check your fill neck. When I first bought my truck the small vent line for the filler tube was loose and leaking and it smelled really strong when it had a full tank. James

Intake studs breaking on a VG33 seem to be a big problem. When I pulled the heads on my quest it had the same problem but it was the front left stud that broke. It looks like the intake gasket seeps coolant and that corrodes the stud and aluminum around it. I tried everything I could to get the stud out with no luck. Finally I got access to a welding machine and welded a nut to what was left. This just broke off when I tried to back it out. Finally I just kept building up weld on it until it was red hot. This finally broke it loose and I was able to back it out. The VG33 I bought for my pathy was the same way but I let it soak for a few day to loosen it up before I took it apart and was able to get it apart without breaking it. I had a 2000 xterra for a year and a half until my wife got tired of shifting the 5 speed and traded it in on the quest. When it was cold the xterra would smell like antifreeze when it was warming up.I could never find a leak so I just ignored it. Later I heard they had intake leaking problems. James

I would like to do this too, not for a bench seat but it would be easier to stuff any center console with out the brake in the way. I peeked under a pickup in the pick a part yesterday and it looked like it had some levers under there too instead of just cables. I'm sure it could be done but will require a lot of parts from the donor. I thought I had read a while back that someone had done this but couldn't find it with the search. James

Not sure about a pathfinder but the titans come like that. The wiring is there, all you have to do to add the fog lights is change the turn signal stalk to one with the fog light switch and install fog lights and plug them in. Some guys said the relay was already in the relay box others said they had to add it. James

I tested the hardness on some factory nissan shims, they are softer than regular SAE washers. So you should be fine using whatever your local store has on the shelf. The main difference is the nissan shims have a smaller diameter than most SAE washers with the same ID hole. James

The belt on my 01 quest VG33 broke at 118k, wifes van I dont drive it so I don't pay atention to the mileage. Didn't bend any valves either. James

Should work but you might not get a good atomizing spray if you go to low. I remember a guy on a titan forum got more fuel by raising his pressure with an aftermarket regulator. James

If you want to continue running the larger injectors you will have to tune your ECU for them. The stock pathfinder injector is 180cc. As for as your ECU is concerned you still have the stock injector so it sends a pulse for a metered amount of fuel to come out of a 180cc injector. Since you have 400cc injectors they are probably dumping almost twice the amount of fuel it should. The ECU can adjust some to lean it out but not as much as needed. For now you should try putting your stock injectors back in and it should run right so you know you have solved your problem. Then look up nissan ECU tuning. James

Both wires from the coolant temp switch go straight back to the ECU. I think you fried something in the ECU when you tapped into the wiring for your fan. As long as your coolant switch wiring is back to the way it's supposed to be you should be fine plugging a good ECU in. Did you open your ECU to see if you let the smoke out? James

Damn thats a tight piston! I never looked it up but didn't think it would have been that tight. James

I bought the 3 in springs and got at least 4 in. I cranked the front till the AC UCA were on the stops and still had 2 in higher in the back. AC told me to use ball joint spacers but then the CV axles were at a horrible angle. With the independent front suspension I wouldn't go more than 2 in over stock for the safety of your axles. If you want more lift go with SAS. My 3 in lift spring are sitting in my shed, I got some jeep springs from the pick a part like I should have done in the first place. The jeep springs you want will have around a .6 wire diameter. James

I've been wanting to try that with a set from a crew cab frontier, but there are never any frontiers in our local pick a part. I don't thing the guy at work would appreciate me pulling his flares in the parking lot either. I look at them hard every time I park next to him. James

You can't always trust the compression check if you are unsure of the belt condition. When I first got my pathy I gave it the once over. I was sick when I found one cylinder with only 30 psi but figured hell I bought it as a hunting truck, it's just going to have to run like this for a while. The timing belt was so loose it was slapping the cover when I would rev it. After changing the timing belt it ran so much better I decided to check the compression again. With the new belt it had a solid 180 psi per cylinder. The old belt could have jumped a tooth or was just stretched so bad the cam was lagging behind the pistons and the intake valve was closing too late. It was probably very close to hitting the piston. I would replace the belt first then run compression. Unless you feel like doing it twice too. James

Get under there with a soft rubber hammer and lightly tap on everything. You will know when you find a loose part. The sway bar end links wont move if the vehicle is leaning to one side. Remove one side and then check them both for slack. James

I just had these two codes on my truck and the same starting issue as you. The crank angle sensor in the distributor was bad. I think the code 21 was from when I was trouble shooting it, I cranked it over with the distributor unplugged. After changing just the sensor inside the distributor with a used one from pick a part it starts right up with a bump of the key like it used to. James

Did you try straight simple green? Or that purple power cleaner that Orielly sells? I used the purple stuff to clean aluminum heads and it got everything off. I agree with adamzan, we never get anything put on our roads and my Lego's look like that too. It hasn't bothered me much though because mine usually stay covered in mud. James