JamesRich

I like my lockright. I go through most mud in 2wd. I drive it to work often with no problems. Coasting around turns keeps it from being too noisy. It does change driveability some. It give you alot more drive line slack so you have to be easy on the clutch when shifting so it doesn't bang. It didn't take me long to adjust though. James

I used a thread sealant for pipe threads. Silicone can burn through paint and cause rust. A window caulk would work too just read on the tube if it says it's safe for metal. James

I mounted my xterra rack with threaded rivets from harbor freight. You just drill a hole with a unibit so you get a nice round hole then install the rivet, now you have threads. To direct mount a basket it would need to have some flat feet on it that you could bolt down. I think most baskets are made to mount to a rack. James

It sound like you have another problem besides the knock sensor. I had the knock sensor go bad on my wife's quest van and it just got about 3 mpg less but seemed to run the same. James

I switched my 87 over to mobile one as soon as I got it. It only had 106k, no problems so far. The oil level is still the same as the day I changed it. The motor looks like it had been taken care of before I got it so that might make a difference. I run mobile one in everything, and it did give me problems in my lawn mower. It has a kohler engine and not long after I changed it it started smoking when I would start it. Finally around the middle of the summer it was leaking so bad through the lower crank seal that I had to change the drive belt. I switched it back to regular oil and the leak stopped but it still smokes when I start it so that might be related to something else. James

The position on the axle isn't as important as what 87pathy stated. If the slip yoke splines on the shaft itself doesn't have a blind spline and they took it apart for some reason and then slide them back together one spline off it will cause a vibration. The two crosses of the ujoints must be lined up and the yokes in the same position. Here is a pic I found to try to show what I mean. Sorry the pic is large, I just copied their code. James

OK you need to stop posting pictures! Were jealous enough! James

If the idle is bouncing you may be low on coolant or have some blockage in the hoses going to the thermo element. Mine does the bouncing when I drain the coolant and get air in the system. Does it still raise the idle when its cold? You may have just backed off the fast idle adjustment. MY1PATH posted some pics of the throttle body and listed what all the screws were for. Search for his post and see if you adjusted the right screw. James

Yes, the first thing I did was put a manual gauge on it to make sure. Then installed a new sending unit. I kept the old one because the new one works the same. All the gauges are slow so I figured that was just how they work. The fuel gauge takes a couple of minutes until it finally levels off. James

I've never read about anyone having to change one of those but I've only had my pathfinder for a little over a year. It uses a wax that melts when the temp rises so if the unit leaked the wax out or if the coolant lines going to it were plugged it could cause the high idle. James

Thats crazy man! Your rear bumper takes a pounding! James

I agree on the vacuum leak. I had this problem when I first got my 87. I had a couple of broken vacuum hoses. You might want to change most of them because they are probably all brittle after 24 years. James

They don't need to be perfectly flat you can adjust them. I could sure use the cover from that old faded maroon d21 clinometer! So remove the cover and send it to me then mount the clinometer in the cubby hole. As for the digital models, I personally don't need a clinometer I just think it looks cool! James

Why not run the winch off of side terminals? I was planning on getting a yellow top and do just that. I've had a yellow top in my titan for a couple of years now and had no problems with it. Right now I have a little auto zone battery that was in the truck when I bought it. I stalled the winch once without the motor running and I was screwed, had to jump it. James

We have an oil pressure light too. The gage is so slow without the light the motor would run for at least a minute before we would know it didn't have oil pressure. James

Thats the one I have. Plenty strong enough for a WD My link The cover it comes with fades to gray in about a month and the grommets are rusting but its still holding together. It does blend the winch into the bumper well so it doesn't stand out so much. I did replace the cord on it with some braided cord and slide locks. It came with what looked like shoe strings that had to be tied to hold it in place. James

That looks just like my dash, unfortunately the sub tank gauge doesn't work. James

I would have just bypassed the damper first thing but the flared lines screw right into the housing and I'm sure they are some screwy metric size. I didn't feel like driving all over Lafayette and the surrounding towns to never find the correct fittings to bypass it. I even thought about just gutting it and just putting the empty housing back but with my luck it would have leaked. Lately with working 12 hour days 6 day a week and kids baseball and trying to get my garden ready and other yard work I feel like a prisoner in my own life. I don't even have time to read my favorite gun magazine any more. So I definitely didn't want to waste time running around looking for something I was sure wasn't there. Someone could sell quite a few fittings for this if they made some. A small block with the same angles for the lines so nothing would have to be modified or bent. I would buy one. James

You could just have some bad solenoids. I wouldn't know how to test them though. It would suck having a winch on the truck that you knew you couldn't trust. James

Glad to see you guy made it through ok. Good luck with getting things back to normal. Will send some prayer y'all way. James

From what I've read the M8000 is a Chinese built winch that warn sells to compete with all the other cheap Chinese built winches on the market. There is no comparison to the US made warns that are at least twice the price. The problem is when they put their name on it they ask too much for it. Thats why I got the smittybilt XRC8 for $299 shipped. Its probably the same winch but much cheaper. I still have the 60 amp alt on my truck and when I bog down the winch it will kill the motor. But at least I know it's running out of juice and not just stalling out. I also found out that it doesn't take much pulling with the motor off before I'm screwed with a dead battery! James

I like your idea. I like having the tire carrier on the back but it is in the way when pulling a trailer or using a hitch basket. It would be nice to be able to move it up out of the way when I need to. James

Nothing obvious, I'm sure something was leaking though for it to run out of fluid. My bet would have been the slave because the rubber boot was a little swollen. Dragging through the mud all hunting season and then pressure washing it for 3 hours once I get home could have covered up a small leak. One thing you must know about me, I'm lazy and forgetful! Even though it's 23 years old it doesn't use any oil. So unless I open the hood to work on something I don't check the fluids in between oil changes. If I did I may have noticed it getting low. I know thats not good but unless I put a reminder in my phones calender I won't remember to do anything. I still forgot to check the oil while I was bleeding the clutch. It was still full a few months ago so It should be fine. James

Thanks for the help guys, I finally got it going. I obviously had a leak because it ran out of fluid but neither the slave or master cylinders appeared to be leaking when I replaced them. I had the same problem getting the new parts to work, took for ever to get all the air out. I'm sure this is because of the way the hydraulic line is run. The line comes off the master and goes straight up for around 5" then makes a 90* turn and goes across the firewall and down to the damper. I'm sure air was getting trapped in this loop. If the line went down from the master air in the system would eventually work its way back up through the master cylinder. I didn't have to bypass the damper either, if fact that is where I bleed most of the air out of the system. What I did, since its not my DD, was left it parked and every day when I got home I just cracked the bleeder on the damper and a little air came out. After the third day no more air came out, it had a good pedal and I've been driving it again. I think pumping the hell out of it when bleeding it was foaming up the fluid so I never got all the air out. By letting it gravity bleed without pumping it all the air came out. James

Sportsman's guide has some 4"x30' with a 10 ton load cap for $19 bucks. I bought one but haven't used it yet, accept to level a box blind. Looks like decent quality. James