87pathy

if you have a 6 bolt pattern, then go with a D300, Chevy, dodge, jeep NP205, NP203, np 208, np 241..etc. dana 20..... T18, much cheaper, hell i bought a servicable d300 here in the states for 250 bucks. Just check the spline count, most D300 and others are 23 spline i wouldn't tell you to use them unless you could.. I know that patrol axles are right hand drop (your drivers side, our passengers side)

as far as i know, atlas only makes it to go to a chev tranny to the nissan case. a better more cost effective way would to be put a Dana 300 out of a jeep behind it. does your C6 have a 6 bolt round patern? if so, deffinatley go this route

hahaha.. i have a few inches of play.. maybe i need a new box.

This is not 100% true. less recoil yes...................... BUT I wheel alot.. i mean ALOT. We pull winch cable every time out. I have NEVER seen a steel cable break on a vehicle winch (i have seen cable break though). I have seen multiple synthetic lines break, and no.. not from abrasion. if the line is dry, there is very little re-coil, if it is wet, there is much more recoil. and only 200 bucks for new synthetic line? where do you buy yours.. hell, i know the masterpull guy and i can't get a deal like that. I get new cable FREE. i just wait till somebody pulls their new calbe off the drum to replace it with synthetic, and they will GIVE it to you. Ill keep my old trusty cable, that looks like @!*% and will still suspend my entire vehicle. you can keep your sketchy synthetic line! Disclaimer : it is my understanding that they hold up well in dry environments, such as utah, or arizona.. the WET coast.. not so mcuh

soft 8's are crap. bend easily

I hope you mean belt, not chain. If you have a chain, i wanna know what engine it is. lol

Grind down the puller so it fits. this is what i've done.

ooooops.. missed that, I'll shut up now.

would help to know if your working on the front or the back. the back is super simple.

no joke, hell these things start floating lifters at abut 6.5-7k.

here is the deal with wheel spacers. I have seen people run them with absolutely ZERO issues. then i've seen them come off on a regular basis. I just don't trust them. (they seam to hold u fine on toyotas, maybe its the 6 bolt pattern, and most failures i've seen are on a 5 bolt pattern)

take it to hte alignment place.

everybody complains about the expensive 880 bucks for a calmini lift. can you do it cheaper? i don't think so. new coils new torsion bars new ball joints new bushings, new shocks pan hard drop. ext ext. ya, if you ONLY get new arms and coils.. its gonna be cheaper.

problem is ther is more than 1. for example, my manual is for a 83-88 (If i remember correclty) so you'ld need another one, to cover the 89-93

have yo checked the tranny fluid?

thanks your search skills are strong..

Ok, there used to be a manual for the 94 / 95 you could down load on this site. I had it at one time, but can't find it.. I have spent the last hour trying to find it again on this site. anybody know Where TF it is?

only a 50 dollar broker fee.. You got off cheap..

which arms are you refering to?

As Far As I Know

how the hell do you bend all the valves? think about it................. are all your valves open at the same time? at most it should be half.

you need a new alernator, do't even screw around. as i stated in another thread, if your down to 9VDC and nothing is on, its your alt.

yup, this is true. The guy ended up with a cover that was nearly as big as the stock filter housing to get it to run rigt. as far as the hot air connection, just plug off the vaccum line and get rid of the flex line coming off of hte manifold. I personnaly like mine on it, it warms up faster and therefore runs better faster.

Alternator should be running close to 14VDC if not, you got a bad alt. If its at that voltage and still not charging the battery its the battery

I wouldn't bet on it. I've had the heads off, and belive it or nt, its prett easy. biggest problem are the exhaust manifold bolts / Studs. PUll the plenum off in 1 piece, mark every wire and hose, unbolt, pull away.