87pathy

the transfer case isn't a problem. its the tranny you gotta take care of. you can use the pensoil syncromesh stuff. if your not sure about an oil, call the manufacturer and ask them if its soft metal compatible.

you can't put a d44 in a nissan

36's..s oon to be 38's

FYI, You can't really go high steer. the drag link will be up against the oil pan.

no, wrong.... why would you drill a hole thats nearly 1/2" bigger than the tube going through it. It should be a tight fit as to not hinder frame integrity. You can't even fill this. Packie needs to cut some pieces of steel and box in the area around them. so that it doesn't bend at that point. which it will eventrually if not fixed.

its due to lack of a differntial in the transfer case. All wheel drive vechiles are more forgiving due to transfercase characteristics. when you turn a corner and 2 of the 4 wheels are turning, 1 wheel is always traveling a shorter distance.

loctite and a 1/2inch impact.

I bet its only when you turn sharp, and it is normal.

sharp turn on dry pavement? is there an orange sticker on your rear differential?

ding ding dign.. we havea a winer

THE washer looking thing that goes over the crank gear after you put your belt on

got the retainer on?

do you know how much beer i can buy for 70 bucks? and have extra hatch supports

Long neck beer bottle works well to prop up, place between edge and the opening against teh cylinder.

Jarred, Don't forget they tell you to drill holes that are too big.

i aske him if he wanted some cheese.. frumunda.. deez.....

dot approved break lines.. thats funny when the kit isn't dot approved.

Well, no pics as i'm in mexico. But i have word that my new front drive shaft is at home waiting. My new rear 9" currie extreme axles have been shipped. My twin stick boot should be there on monday. I've asked the wife for a set of bobby longfield shifter knobs for christmas. She'll be ready by newyears.. WOOOOT

Nice workmanship. couple of things. your going to have bump steer with that horribly. Fix that and it will help with the front end jacking. also the spring you have will do that, i have run both variable rate and liniar rate coils and i had that problem with the liniar rate coils your going to hate yourself for not changing those stock axle suspension mounts in the rear.

Okay, I know that this is not going to help, but have to say. Yup, your an idiot.

should be an h233 in the front

I ran the old "selectro" MM for bubs for years. and beat on them no issues. the ONLY thing that was wierd, is that i had to remove the lock washers, get shorter bolts and use red loctite to keep the botls tight. For some reason, if i drove in 2wd with the hubs turned in for any istance, the bolts would come loose, even when i torqued them. wierd.

Not to say its not comming, but the 2010 model still has a solid front end.

since when? http://nissan.com.au/webpages/models/Patrol_model.html#/photo-gallery they are still front solid axle in most countries.. all we can do is hope

thats the backside of the case. its shown open where the "t" case would be, that lowe bearing is end bearing for the low range shaft.