87pathy

this is an oxymoron. rev engine at idle.

get a timing light, mark the like with a paint pen. let it warm up and check timing. could definatley be detonation. or.. have you checked your oil level lately? it could be an oil pump. there is less oil in your pan when running at higher RPMs due to volume. If your pump cannot keep up at high rpms it can cause a lifter tick.

auto is 4.6x manual is 4.3x to the best of my knowledge.

stub shaft breaking. seen it several times. if somebody doesn't do maint. on their 44, well thats dumb.. but a broken stub shaft causeing teh wheel to fall off due to over stress, thats poor design. why do you think all the jeep guys (less weight equal power) change them out? thats why you can find the D30 so cheap.. cause nobody wants them. can you wheel it.. yes. you can polish a turd, but its still a turd. even a 44 is boarderline. I broke an inner shaft on its shake down run several years ago. broke another one 6 months later broke an alloy after that. yes i'm locked in the front

well, if your 100% sure that your hubs are ok.. your t-case is jacked. do you have auto hubs?

i have messed with mine quite a bit. i have found that the factory setting gives the beset low low end.

have you ever messed with the timing?

see your screen name..lol mine does it every now and again.. normally after water crossings.

the d 30 is fine until you break a stub shaft and the wheel falls off. seen it.

take the bulb out.

i woud definatey go with that setu vs the ford radius arms.

you are missing something. Patrol H233b front ends are passengers side drop. (unless your are right hand drive, then its drivers.. lets simplify. pathfinder Left hand drop patrol right hand drop. see below

I have always ran dyno oil (dynosaur, fossil fuel) in all my rigs. Never ever had any problems. However, dyno in the grade WE need for the nissan tranny is getting hard to find. so, I ponnied up the dough and bought redline. (something like 13 bucks a quart, so at 5 quarts, its pretty spendy). I ran it for about 3-4 weeks and my tranny - t- case seal failed. It could be coincidence but the seal was new. (1 year, I changed it when i did the T-case gears) all my oil drained out of the tranny and into the T-case when i was about 50 miles from nowhere. I had to drive it out. when i got it home I pulled the drain plug and there was only about 1 quart that came out. and my t-case was FULL. I spend 60 bucks got a 5 gallon bucket of Omala 320 (which is sae 150) its a little thick, but nearly 2 years later when i drained it to do the doubler the oil was MINT. I know this oil is OK to run with soft metals because its what my company uses in their 100K dollar gear boxes with soft metals. tranny is still good. so, i will never again buy any synthetic oil for gear boxes.

hes asking about the t-case not the tranny. and you only have to fill from the shifter on the tranny if its a 89 or older (iirc) and for the record. SCREW REDLINE.

I've used the tirofos before. .they scare me, they work only on friction. Just don't ever lift with one. and there is nothing wrong with those smitty built winches. I know a few guys running them and have nothing bad to say about them.

there is no replacement for a winch. I know, not what you wanted to here. I have tried to use come alongs, and yes, they work but are slow, dangerous..etc. its pretty hard to work the come along while your trying to drive.

i'm not sure of your problem but i do recoment to cut them off of the heater core (if thats what your after) I have seen way to many heater cores screwed up because of people pulling too hard on them.

this will help if you ever have a heating issue, you can turn the truck off and let air circulate through the rad and engine compartment. this is how ALL new vehicles with electric fans are. just my .02

clicking in the front end while in 4x4 and turning.

I'd start with the one at the frame. typically "death wobble" is due to bad trak bar or pan hard bar (same thing, different term) busings or connections. Like i said, I'd done this a few times on 'rokees. (lots of friends have them)

1 at the pitman arm - 1 at the drivers side knuckle. 1 at the "Y" - 1 at the knuckle thats 4. add in the one at teh frame (pan hard bar).. = 5

which ones did you replace? there are are 5

TRE = Tie Rod Ends. I bet you a dime to a dollar thats your problem and they will continue to wear out quickly until the steering geometry is addressed. check the one on the fram end of the pan hard bar. Then check all of them on each tie rod end. Just put your hand around them so you can feel them good, have somebody bounce the steering wheel back and forth really hard and check for ANY movment. (1mm = no good)

this is quite comon on 'rokees that with lift. if there is ANY wear in the TRE's you'll get death wobble. I have changed them in 'rokees that were "good" but after changing them the death wobble was gone.

change the timing belt as soon as you get it home pull the fill plug on the tranny to make sure its over full. the original fill location was too low. there is a TSB about this. (assuming a manual tranny) if its an auto tranny, plan on changing it..lol